Faelflora breaks his promise, time to part out car. GIT THE SAWZALL!
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My wastegate fell off again today so this is good timing. 
I just put my deposit down on a full new ARTech hotside!
Manifold
Downpipe
Exhaust
Manifold design is yet to be determined. I'm sending my turbo/qsv/WG (which I am exchanging for an MV-R) to Abe to figure out a good design that will fit. Downpipe will flare to 3.75" or 4" depending on what will fit under the car. I can't wait to have a setup that not only will let me make all the power there is to be had with a BP but one that will also not regularly crumble apart and asphyxiate me with fumes each time I drive it. Yay!

I just put my deposit down on a full new ARTech hotside!
Manifold
Downpipe
Exhaust
Manifold design is yet to be determined. I'm sending my turbo/qsv/WG (which I am exchanging for an MV-R) to Abe to figure out a good design that will fit. Downpipe will flare to 3.75" or 4" depending on what will fit under the car. I can't wait to have a setup that not only will let me make all the power there is to be had with a BP but one that will also not regularly crumble apart and asphyxiate me with fumes each time I drive it. Yay!
How are you modding the twinscroll turbo for use with a non-TS manifold? Knife edging the flange so there's no flat spot?
I'm debating getting a 3071 or EFT7064, but I can't afford the turbo AND the manifold at the same time, just wondering if I can run it without any detrimental effects to the flange divider or have outlandishly poor performance.
Hmmm...
I'm debating getting a 3071 or EFT7064, but I can't afford the turbo AND the manifold at the same time, just wondering if I can run it without any detrimental effects to the flange divider or have outlandishly poor performance.
Hmmm...
How are you modding the twinscroll turbo for use with a non-TS manifold? Knife edging the flange so there's no flat spot?
I'm debating getting a 3071 or EFT7064, but I can't afford the turbo AND the manifold at the same time, just wondering if I can run it without any detrimental effects to the flange divider or have outlandishly poor performance.
Hmmm...
I'm debating getting a 3071 or EFT7064, but I can't afford the turbo AND the manifold at the same time, just wondering if I can run it without any detrimental effects to the flange divider or have outlandishly poor performance.
Hmmm...
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How are you modding the twinscroll turbo for use with a non-TS manifold? Knife edging the flange so there's no flat spot?
I'm debating getting a 3071 or EFT7064, but I can't afford the turbo AND the manifold at the same time, just wondering if I can run it without any detrimental effects to the flange divider or have outlandishly poor performance.
Hmmm...
I'm debating getting a 3071 or EFT7064, but I can't afford the turbo AND the manifold at the same time, just wondering if I can run it without any detrimental effects to the flange divider or have outlandishly poor performance.
Hmmm...
I don't think running a divided turbine housing with an undivided manifold would be horrible at all.
BTW are you going to burning man this year? I may be going to Transformus in June.
QSV is in consideration, I really like the numbers, but I think I'll use you as a guinea pig and see how long it lasts under "moderate" use.. 
As for BM, very maybe. I've blown a lot of money on the car this season and I'll have to save up before I go.

As for BM, very maybe. I've blown a lot of money on the car this season and I'll have to save up before I go.
No need to use him as a guinea pig, Supra guys have been running them for awhile now at extreme boost levels, no issues. I did see one fail, but Sound Performance said it was the first fail ever; they took care of the guy really well, replacing, and trying to figure out what caused the failure.
Did the failed one not GNOM NOM NOM on his turbine wheel? I'd imagine if one failed it would go through and cause some GLORIOUS CARNAGE.
If I was to run one of these, it would be on an EFR turbo, since I don't care to run an EWG if I can avoid it. Only reason why I'm worried about a failure. Also, I want to know what kind of spool increase he sees. If I run this and an EFR, it's probably going to be the 7064 for some stupid powah. .92 A/R turning into roughly .46 until I build to target boost (probably 20psi), oh lawdy lawd.
Only issue with this thought process is how the hell am I going to put all this power to the road
If I was to run one of these, it would be on an EFR turbo, since I don't care to run an EWG if I can avoid it. Only reason why I'm worried about a failure. Also, I want to know what kind of spool increase he sees. If I run this and an EFR, it's probably going to be the 7064 for some stupid powah. .92 A/R turning into roughly .46 until I build to target boost (probably 20psi), oh lawdy lawd.
Only issue with this thought process is how the hell am I going to put all this power to the road
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Did the failed one not GNOM NOM NOM on his turbine wheel? I'd imagine if one failed it would go through and cause some GLORIOUS CARNAGE.
If I was to run one of these, it would be on an EFR turbo, since I don't care to run an EWG if I can avoid it. Only reason why I'm worried about a failure. Also, I want to know what kind of spool increase he sees. If I run this and an EFR, it's probably going to be the 7064 for some stupid powah. .92 A/R turning into roughly .46 until I build to target boost (probably 20psi), oh lawdy lawd.
Only issue with this thought process is how the hell am I going to put all this power to the road
If I was to run one of these, it would be on an EFR turbo, since I don't care to run an EWG if I can avoid it. Only reason why I'm worried about a failure. Also, I want to know what kind of spool increase he sees. If I run this and an EFR, it's probably going to be the 7064 for some stupid powah. .92 A/R turning into roughly .46 until I build to target boost (probably 20psi), oh lawdy lawd.
Only issue with this thought process is how the hell am I going to put all this power to the road

If the QSV kablooies it will be ok. A replacement turbine wheel is like $100. A journal rebuild kit is $150. Apparently a lot of supra guys are using these with launch control/2step whatever you want to call it and it holds up ok. I am not really sure what would fail. It's just a pole with a plate that's exposed to the exhaust. Abe will have his hands on it and he can tack the plate on more if needed.
I am on a few other non miata forums where my signature links to this build thread. Maybe he came from some non miata scene?
The 7064 is a lot smaller on both the compressor and turbine than the turbo I'm running. It should spool better. The turbine wheel is also If I can hook up some compressed air to the QSV, I will do a dyno pull with it wide open. I have hopes that my turbo won't give up too much power under the curve compared to 28** and 3071 turbos because of the less restrictive turbine. We will see.
If the QSV kablooies it will be ok. A replacement turbine wheel is like $100. A journal rebuild kit is $150. Apparently a lot of supra guys are using these with launch control/2step whatever you want to call it and it holds up ok. I am not really sure what would fail. It's just a pole with a plate that's exposed to the exhaust. Abe will have his hands on it and he can tack the plate on more if needed.
Thank you!
I am on a few other non miata forums where my signature links to this build thread. Maybe he came from some non miata scene?
If the QSV kablooies it will be ok. A replacement turbine wheel is like $100. A journal rebuild kit is $150. Apparently a lot of supra guys are using these with launch control/2step whatever you want to call it and it holds up ok. I am not really sure what would fail. It's just a pole with a plate that's exposed to the exhaust. Abe will have his hands on it and he can tack the plate on more if needed.
Thank you!
I am on a few other non miata forums where my signature links to this build thread. Maybe he came from some non miata scene?
Yeah my thoughts waver on getting an efr or not, they're so damn expensive.. Until I get my DW1000s working with my Hydra (if I even can!) I have to shelve any further upgrades..
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For the **** of it, I added a little more timing in 3000-4000RPM, low boost cells 1psi-14psi, logged and saw no knock at all. I know that my timing map is not at MBT so that should have gained some power. I also put the boost back at 20psi. Whee.
I am giving my hydramist one more go. I found a "known good" junction board and will be swapping it out for my "known bad" board. I really hope it works this time.
The MV-S is on it's way back to the Tial dealer to be exchanged for an MV-R. Abe recommended that to avoid possible boost control issues.
My PLX DM-100 reads oil pressure, AFR, water temp, and now oil temp. It was a real pain in the *** to get the oil temp sensor working. Seriously, it took me about 6 hours because of various bullshit problems. I also installed a sandwich plate for the oil temp, oil feed, and oil pressure. I plugged the block oil feed. Using the sandwich seemed to be the most serviceable configuration.
Ever since my built motor install, I have always had the sensation that I've really been hauling in my miata. I've looked down at the speedo and it always felt like I was traveling much faster than it indicated. I have always attributed the heightened speed sensation to hopping between my subie FXT auto daily driver and the miata. Today, I was going through a sack of parts and found my 3.6 gearing speed sensor. That means my factory 3.9 sensor is still in the transmission. Argh. It also means that when I topped out 5th I was going 156mph.
It also explains why my speedo needle hasn't been moving as fast around the clock as I expected it would. lulz
I am giving my hydramist one more go. I found a "known good" junction board and will be swapping it out for my "known bad" board. I really hope it works this time.
The MV-S is on it's way back to the Tial dealer to be exchanged for an MV-R. Abe recommended that to avoid possible boost control issues.
My PLX DM-100 reads oil pressure, AFR, water temp, and now oil temp. It was a real pain in the *** to get the oil temp sensor working. Seriously, it took me about 6 hours because of various bullshit problems. I also installed a sandwich plate for the oil temp, oil feed, and oil pressure. I plugged the block oil feed. Using the sandwich seemed to be the most serviceable configuration.
Ever since my built motor install, I have always had the sensation that I've really been hauling in my miata. I've looked down at the speedo and it always felt like I was traveling much faster than it indicated. I have always attributed the heightened speed sensation to hopping between my subie FXT auto daily driver and the miata. Today, I was going through a sack of parts and found my 3.6 gearing speed sensor. That means my factory 3.9 sensor is still in the transmission. Argh. It also means that when I topped out 5th I was going 156mph.
It also explains why my speedo needle hasn't been moving as fast around the clock as I expected it would. lulz
Your 3.6 speed sensor was not in the car?? Attention to details, it's one of the things I have always busted your ***** on. Post up some new video of you and the "big speed run" without video it didn't happen!





