Faelflora breaks his promise, time to part out car. GIT THE SAWZALL!
You really wanna run 40 PSI!!!!! that thing will be insane. The old turbo at 23 psi or so was wicked fast let alone 30 psi on the new one. I guess this is a go big or go home event and you are not stopping until it blows. I am in to see the winning!!!!!!!!!!!!!11
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OK well I got my fuel map mostly straightened out. Took me a while to get cruise cells happy. Boost fuel map was pretty easy.
Vacuum referenced AFPR fuel map looks quite different than non-vacuum-referenced fuel map. Go figure.
I turned on my WI and I redid my fuel for low 11s in boost. Timing is fairly aggressive during spoolup and pretty weaksauce above 18psi. I got my MBC working with the Tial MV-R (use the side port) and set boost at 23psi. QSV is running off the same MBC so it should be opening fully around 18psi. I think I will hook up a seperate ebay NXS boost controller to the QSV so I can tune it properly. At 23 it's pretty ******* fast. I am not however, burning up the clutch yet. That means I am not pushing 450lbs of TQ (I'm guessing ACT underrated their 400lb sprung 6 puck disc) yet. I'm going to learn how to tune meth at this psi and then will be upping the boost to 40psi.
The driveability of this turbo is actually great. My redline is 8000RPM (may up it to 8500) and that plus 6speed and 3.6 gears = decent powerband. Note the following spool data though:
1st gear I see only 12psi
2nd gear I see 23psi but right at redline
3rd gear I see 23psi at 6000rpm
4th gear I see 23psi at 5500ish rpm
5th gear I see 23psi at 46/700ish rpm
This means that there is no tirespin in first. Tires spin at top of second above 7000rpm. Third tires spin at 6000. Fourth, no tirespin yet. Need more power.
In a race from a dig, I would prob lose to a 200hp turbo miata in first, catch up and pass at some point in second, and byebye after that. I'm ok with that. I like how this big turbo feels a lot. I've always rev'd to the limiter even when my car was stock and it suits my driving style. At this power level I don't think power is tapering off much as I pull to redline and boost holds solid. The tubular mani and 4" exhaust must flow incredibly well. Power just keeps on building and building.
Sad news though.
Tonight my car broke down. It backfired a few times under light load and then the throttle stopped responding and the RPMs dropped and car died. Tried starting and it stumbled and backfired a few times then I got nothing. I have cam signal, crank angle signal, spark (guessing that from AFR not being full rich when cranking), fuel (i can smell the gas and trust me i can hear the two 044 pumps). That leads me to think that my timing belt jumped. Joy. Had my car towed home and will find TDC and check cam gear tomorrow. If it is off I guess it is not all that bad because I wanted to install my adjustable cam gear too. Advancing the cam gear should help spool a lot and may not comprimise top end power too much.
Vacuum referenced AFPR fuel map looks quite different than non-vacuum-referenced fuel map. Go figure.
I turned on my WI and I redid my fuel for low 11s in boost. Timing is fairly aggressive during spoolup and pretty weaksauce above 18psi. I got my MBC working with the Tial MV-R (use the side port) and set boost at 23psi. QSV is running off the same MBC so it should be opening fully around 18psi. I think I will hook up a seperate ebay NXS boost controller to the QSV so I can tune it properly. At 23 it's pretty ******* fast. I am not however, burning up the clutch yet. That means I am not pushing 450lbs of TQ (I'm guessing ACT underrated their 400lb sprung 6 puck disc) yet. I'm going to learn how to tune meth at this psi and then will be upping the boost to 40psi.
The driveability of this turbo is actually great. My redline is 8000RPM (may up it to 8500) and that plus 6speed and 3.6 gears = decent powerband. Note the following spool data though:
1st gear I see only 12psi
2nd gear I see 23psi but right at redline
3rd gear I see 23psi at 6000rpm
4th gear I see 23psi at 5500ish rpm
5th gear I see 23psi at 46/700ish rpm
This means that there is no tirespin in first. Tires spin at top of second above 7000rpm. Third tires spin at 6000. Fourth, no tirespin yet. Need more power.
In a race from a dig, I would prob lose to a 200hp turbo miata in first, catch up and pass at some point in second, and byebye after that. I'm ok with that. I like how this big turbo feels a lot. I've always rev'd to the limiter even when my car was stock and it suits my driving style. At this power level I don't think power is tapering off much as I pull to redline and boost holds solid. The tubular mani and 4" exhaust must flow incredibly well. Power just keeps on building and building.
Sad news though.
Tonight my car broke down. It backfired a few times under light load and then the throttle stopped responding and the RPMs dropped and car died. Tried starting and it stumbled and backfired a few times then I got nothing. I have cam signal, crank angle signal, spark (guessing that from AFR not being full rich when cranking), fuel (i can smell the gas and trust me i can hear the two 044 pumps). That leads me to think that my timing belt jumped. Joy. Had my car towed home and will find TDC and check cam gear tomorrow. If it is off I guess it is not all that bad because I wanted to install my adjustable cam gear too. Advancing the cam gear should help spool a lot and may not comprimise top end power too much.
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Last thing
if there are big turbo haters (and i'm sure there will be when i post on m.net), i'm sure your mind would change if i gave you a ride. this **** is super ******* awesome and i'm REALLLLY glad i did the tubular mani, big turbo, big exhaust upgrade
if there are big turbo haters (and i'm sure there will be when i post on m.net), i'm sure your mind would change if i gave you a ride. this **** is super ******* awesome and i'm REALLLLY glad i did the tubular mani, big turbo, big exhaust upgrade
Mnet will be a shitstorm. Im sure someone will tell you that a JRSC would be superior because itll drive away while you lag.
You see Fae, a large turbo like that lags for about 30-40 seconds on average, which is why big turbo cars are so slow. What you need is a microscopic turbo that spools before you can even think about pressing the throttle.
Also, you cant tun more than 15 psi on pump gas. Its impossible.
You see Fae, a large turbo like that lags for about 30-40 seconds on average, which is why big turbo cars are so slow. What you need is a microscopic turbo that spools before you can even think about pressing the throttle.
Also, you cant tun more than 15 psi on pump gas. Its impossible.
What you need is a 25shot to spin that ****** up in 1st and 2nd.
Athough that will probably be pointless because once it gets boiling it will spin so hard you'll go backwards.
You wanted a fast street car. Who cares about 1st or 2nd gear. 4th gear roll ons is where its at like a true roll racer LMAO
You should do TK2K12 once this **** is done and see where you will stand against 1000whp supras and 1500whp lambos
Athough that will probably be pointless because once it gets boiling it will spin so hard you'll go backwards.
You wanted a fast street car. Who cares about 1st or 2nd gear. 4th gear roll ons is where its at like a true roll racer LMAO
You should do TK2K12 once this **** is done and see where you will stand against 1000whp supras and 1500whp lambos
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What you need is a 25shot to spin that ****** up in 1st and 2nd.
Athough that will probably be pointless because once it gets boiling it will spin so hard you'll go backwards.
You wanted a fast street car. Who cares about 1st or 2nd gear. 4th gear roll ons is where its at like a true roll racer LMAO
You should do TK2K12 once this **** is done and see where you will stand against 1000whp supras and 1500whp lambos
Athough that will probably be pointless because once it gets boiling it will spin so hard you'll go backwards.
You wanted a fast street car. Who cares about 1st or 2nd gear. 4th gear roll ons is where its at like a true roll racer LMAO
You should do TK2K12 once this **** is done and see where you will stand against 1000whp supras and 1500whp lambos


Regarding 10000hp i mean 1000hp supras, calculator racing says i would need about 700hp to hang.
and
Originally Posted by http://949racing.com/miata-twin-disc-clutch.aspx
You will need to reduce pedal travel by about 1" by either adjusting the factory pedal stops, clutch master cylinder pushrod or adding a hard pedal stop. The single disc kits include a spacer block for the throwout bearing.

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as for pedal adjustment derpderp on that too. i am being very gentle on your future clutch since my car is not running right now.
don't plan on doing that.
I'm pretty sure the clutch will hold way past its "rating" for a short amount of time. Its not like it will 100% give out past, just that it won't last there any longer than a short while. How short, I dunno







