Fireindc's attempt to build a decent miata. (the search for more torque).
10-17-2013, 01:45 PM
#427
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Thanks for the compliment, it's quite easy to do it that clean when you have the pan off the car. I did your standard drill/tap, then lubed up the threads with a generous amount of JB weld and threaded it in. When it threaded in the jb weld puddled on the outside of the fitting, i wiped any JB weld off from the inside of the pan so it couldn't come loose or anything, then I let it dry.
Once dried i came in with a dremel and milled the fitting flush with the inside of the pan, so there was as much room as possible for drain-back from the turbo with the windage trey and pickup fitted. I'm happy with it so far, no leaks at all anywhere on the engine at this point and the JB is holding up fine.
Once dried i came in with a dremel and milled the fitting flush with the inside of the pan, so there was as much room as possible for drain-back from the turbo with the windage trey and pickup fitted. I'm happy with it so far, no leaks at all anywhere on the engine at this point and the JB is holding up fine.
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10-18-2013, 12:45 AM
#428
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Alright guys, got my donor BP pulled apart. This was a 94/95 BP with ~100k miles on it, 3-4k on a tdo4 turbo. What do you think?
Let's start with the crank. This thing looks and feels pretty much perfect to me. There are some "lines" on it visible, but nothing deep enough to catch a nail on or anything.
Now, as we move on to the cylinders note that I took pictures of any of the worse scratches I could find on each bore.
Cyl 1. The deepest vertical scratch in the middle you just can catch a nail on. Hopefully a good hone will smooth it out. The horizontal line you see is from corrosion where the piston sat there for a while before being pulled apart, it will easily hone out.
Cyl 2. Same deal, a few vertical scratches you could catch a nail on, but hopefully they will hone out pretty easily. Hard to tell just how deep they are though. horizontal line is same type of deal from where piston sat in the bore.
Cyl 3 was pretty much perfect:
Cyl 4, one of those you could catch a nail on - the others were very shallow despite what pics say.
Let's start with the crank. This thing looks and feels pretty much perfect to me. There are some "lines" on it visible, but nothing deep enough to catch a nail on or anything.
Now, as we move on to the cylinders note that I took pictures of any of the worse scratches I could find on each bore.
Cyl 1. The deepest vertical scratch in the middle you just can catch a nail on. Hopefully a good hone will smooth it out. The horizontal line you see is from corrosion where the piston sat there for a while before being pulled apart, it will easily hone out.
Cyl 2. Same deal, a few vertical scratches you could catch a nail on, but hopefully they will hone out pretty easily. Hard to tell just how deep they are though. horizontal line is same type of deal from where piston sat in the bore.
Cyl 3 was pretty much perfect:
Cyl 4, one of those you could catch a nail on - the others were very shallow despite what pics say.
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10-18-2013, 01:17 AM
#430
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Some piston action. They all looked really damn good to me.
This one had the most scratches on the skirt out of all of them. Not deep enough to hand a fingernail on though.
Bearing from cyl 1, was getting chewed up. No marks on the crank at all though thankfully!
Most of the other bearings looked more like this
Didn't yank this oil pump apart, but the PO of this motor said it was a few thousand miles old. Wonder if i should tear it apart?
The workstation:
This one had the most scratches on the skirt out of all of them. Not deep enough to hand a fingernail on though.
Bearing from cyl 1, was getting chewed up. No marks on the crank at all though thankfully!
Most of the other bearings looked more like this
Didn't yank this oil pump apart, but the PO of this motor said it was a few thousand miles old. Wonder if i should tear it apart?
The workstation:
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10-18-2013, 01:23 AM
#431
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Cyl walls I'm going to hone out until there are no scratches left to hang a nail on. I figure you want a little bit looser bores on a turbo engine anyways, should be fine.
I might try to play with polishing out the crank and piston skirts, but i might just leave them. What do you guys think on that front?
Engine isn't perfect, but everything seems usable to me at least. Getting excited and about to order some parts.
Might have a 2860rs on the way too..
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10-18-2013, 04:54 PM
#435
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Oh and a downpipe. I need a bigger one to go with the new turbo. Looking for a divorced wastegate and at least 2.75".
Let's see how this works out.
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10-18-2013, 05:04 PM
#437
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What kind of hone do you recommend? Ball hone, or the other cheaper kind?
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10-18-2013, 05:18 PM
#439
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Oh you, stop it 
I've heard the ball hones are "better", yet I've seen a ton of people use the cheaper ones with great results too. Undecided on that right now, but **** I've got plenty of parts to order still.
As for oil pumps, would I be a moron to go with something like this?
1990 98 Mazda Ford Mercury 1 5L 1 6L 1 8L Engine Oil Pump | eBay
Or should I go OEM?
I've heard the ball hones are "better", yet I've seen a ton of people use the cheaper ones with great results too. Undecided on that right now, but **** I've got plenty of parts to order still.
As for oil pumps, would I be a moron to go with something like this?
1990 98 Mazda Ford Mercury 1 5L 1 6L 1 8L Engine Oil Pump | eBay
Or should I go OEM?
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10-18-2013, 05:32 PM
#440
Dunno. I just bought an ITM oil pump for my daily driver for $65 shipped. In retrospect, i somewhat wish i had just gotten one of the super cheap $40 chinese ones because who cares?
My thoughts on this subject is that the aftermarket has had 20 some-odd years at this point to come up with a passable product, and it's unlikely that any of them will be much inferior to OEM. The flip side is that we're now talking about a motor that you're going to care about in the case of you car...
And in my case, a motor i can have out of my car in less than 2 hours working solo. I grenade a motor on the way to work in the morning, i can have it towed to my shop, and drive it home that night.
TL;DR: You'll find no answers here.
My thoughts on this subject is that the aftermarket has had 20 some-odd years at this point to come up with a passable product, and it's unlikely that any of them will be much inferior to OEM. The flip side is that we're now talking about a motor that you're going to care about in the case of you car...
And in my case, a motor i can have out of my car in less than 2 hours working solo. I grenade a motor on the way to work in the morning, i can have it towed to my shop, and drive it home that night.
TL;DR: You'll find no answers here.
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