I probably wouldn't take chances with an oil pump, but that's just me. Pretty sure the tolerances and stuff on those has to actually be on point for your car to get its lifeblood pumping through it properly.

I guess if you took the time to take it apart, measure it out, and make sure everything is peachy. But then there's still the material question: our cars are known for grenading oil pump gears........

Way different when talking water pumps where its just a little propeller helping the water circulate.

 

I'd be less than surprised at this point if the Mazda pumps aren't simply rebadged pumps from an aftermarket supplier. They've done that with a few parts for my car. Though... it's also much less common than anything BP-powered.

On the flip side, i quite often get genuine Mazda parts re-packaged in Beck Arnley boxes and ****.

But Vlad poses a good point. On my motor i just look for anything over say... 10psi at warm idle, and it's good enough.

 

Good points guys, on both ends. I'd like this motor to last so I'm going brand new OEM - you guys have helped me make my mind up. Now, what's the cheapest price for an OEM pump that you guys know of?

Also Vlad, what do you say on ball vs stone type hones?

 

Probably Arlington or Mazda Motorsports if you have an account.

 

Never used a ball hone.
Used something similar (a little more expensive) to this:

 

Ball hone. We've got one at work and cylinder walls come out great if they only need a little touchup.

 

A big box of happiness is on its way to you!

 

Woohoo. Thanks man, looking forward to receiving this box of happiness

Now, I've been reading up on hones and the arguement goes back and forth on these things.

3 stone style hone: Good for resurfacting the cyl walls if there is any doubt of their condition. Because of how it is shaped and its function, you can see low spots in the bore after using it, it will also grind down any high points first, instead of taking materially evenly. Not quite as good for seating rings.

Ball or bottle brush style hone: GREAT for getting rings to seat, preferred over the other style for that sole purpose. However due to how it works, it will take material from the bore evenly, so if there are peaks and valleys it wont be evened out.

Likely none of this really matters to me, because my scratches are so light. However I'm actually leaning towards the more primitive 3 stone style hone, unless anyone else has any input on this.

I think theoretically the best would be to use both together, but I'm not going to buy both right now.

 

Alright lovers, I'm going with both hones. Going to use the 3 stone style to do the rough honing and get rid of any ridges in the cylinder because my dad has one brand new in the garage, and I'm ordering a ball hone because they appearently are better for cross hatching and ring seating.

The plan is to run the 3 stone one until the cylinders are all smooth with no ridges, then run the ball style briefly to put a good cross hatching on the bore.

 

sounds pretty cool. don't get carried away though because you don't want super loose bores.

 

^ Agreed

A little bit goes a long way, especially with the three stone style.

I know your dad has a new one but just FYI, most auto part stores will loan out the three-stone-style honing tools. So, one wouldn't have to buy both, or either for that matter.

Looks like you're significantly farther along in your "Rods Only" build than I am. I'm still trying to get a stupid Civic out of my garage first... Good Luck!

 

Thanks for the tips guys. The plan is a few passes with the heavy stone one, then go to the ball style hone and do a finishing pass. I'm not going to go crazy, as the last thing I want to do is **** it up from going overboard. The scratches are not very deep, i imagine they will be gone with a few passes from the tri stone hone.

I've got a new turbo on the way, so I kind of want to get the bottom end together - BUT I've got a subaru that I'm going to get running first, and ski season is coming. I expect to have the new engine running early spring.

Buying parts and accumulating knowledge as my time and money allows though.

 

Just don't spin that hone without moving it up and down. If you leave it in one place you will screw up the bore.

 

Thanks for the tip. I've been doing some research and I think I have the right idea. Slow up/down movements so that the crosshatching is from 40-60 degs. As even of coverage as possible. Don't overdo it.

 

Well, what do we have here?



2860rs. So tempted to toss this on sometime this weekend, but I may just wait until the new motor is here. I would HATE to take out the 99 head I'm planning on using, although that is unlikely unless I decide to run way too much boost through it.

Shaft play feels good. Really good. It's tighter than any of my journal bearing turbos, and tighter than my brothers 2560 was too. Seems like it should be a good turbo for me. Here is hoping this one clocks easier than my t25 did. grrrrrr.

Edit: thanks Paul!

 

Glad it got there alright. I wasn't kidding when I said it pretty much had no shaft play lol

 

Got a wastegate for my 2860 for a song, thanks Jeff! Also got a new motor for my subie! Going in as soon as the parts I ordered for it arrive. It has 60k on it and is from a 2007 impreza I, ej253 SOHC. It has "I-active" and is good for 175 hp

This thing is going to be AWESOME in my forester, so stoked to have it.



Also, here are the other girls sleeping:

 

Time to ski brah!!

Jealous. Used to live in Boise. Great skiing in Idaho.

 

Hibernate.

 

You have a Subie too?

Speaking of snow, how's the mountain?