Looking at supertech valve spring kits and there are 3 kits out there
a single spring kit with 58lbs of seat pressure, a dual spring kit with a seat pressure of 49lbs and a dual spring kit with a seat pressure of 70 lbs.

the coil bind lift is highest on the light dual spring kit, followed by the hard dual spring and then the single spring kit.

if i plan to hit 8,500 (or even 9,000) is one of these spring kits better than the other?

i am going to be running kelford 264 cams with 9mm of lift, so the lift is not going to be a factor here.

 

Wirelessly posted



99% complete CAD drawing of the 1.6 intake flange...

Edit... that shows up really small on a computer apparently...

 

I have a friend that has one made for the 1.6L I can take a few picture's.

Maybe give you few ideas on how you can get one custom made for your 1.6.

I'll be waiting for Dec. perhaps next year to get a custom made IM for my 1.6.

 

sr == sr20det ?

 

yes, im still considering it... but not as seriously anymore.

 

Nice turbonator.

 

Thanks bro.

Ps... Intake manifold flange CAD drawing is finished. Im going to send it out to be machined later this week.

If anyone is interested I can probably have more made up.

 

word up...

im debating making a modular runner intake manifold so i can tune runner length on the dyno REAL world.


This will also mean i can have different runners for autoX to get some torque or i can have different runners for drag/drift... word up

 

What do you do for etesting? PM me if it's top secret

 

the car is jdm import.. its "grey market"

i have higher etest standards than a hotrod status car.

 

tore the engine down this weekend... i found my low compression issue...



this is cylinder #4... cylinder #2 also had a peice of missing ringland between the upper and intermidiate compression rings.

I am picking up a set of supertech pistons from Tyson87 and some eagle rods, ACL race bearings and some ARP main studs and then heading to the machine shop.

Try to keep the engine build cheap but make #350 will be fun.

Edit: also i checked the crank endplay and was running around 0.010" which iirc Sav mentioned is a tad much for a long lasting miata engine.

 

Have you thought about using a Honda intake manifold on your 1.6l? I'd take a look at the d-series manifold. At the very least, go buy a D-series intake manifold gasket and see what it looks like compared to the 1.6l miata motor. A skunk2 manifold for 150-250 bucks and weld the miata flange on, worst case scenario, would work great, as it does for the 1.8l I would bet.

 

I have considered it, but im not interested in it.

The honda intake manifold on the miata engine thus far has yeilded "ok" results, but i want to see what a proper manifold will do with a large turbo setup.

 

Can't wait to see this all put together!

 

Water lines?

Where do you guys with the factory water port on the block run the opposing hose to?

i feel like my water line being connected at the lower rad hose block and the factory water port on the side of the block isnt that effective in circulating and im redoing the coolant lines.

With my DIY reroute I will not have the upper water neck and would prefer not to have a hose going to it.

 

why not, one is before and one is after water pump.

 

just because you could hear gurgling in the turbo coolant lines when i stopped and turned the car off sometimes.

 

I have been using my build thread as a useless questions thread too... so how about this

I am going to be assembling my engine and i want to know if there is a difference between a rod stretch indicator and a traditional dial guage with base.... is it just a guage that is accurate to 0.00001"?

most other things i am 100% competent at doing...

 

The rod stretch gauge is just a dial gauge with a fixture. Both are typically measured by thousandths

 

I have a special addition to my engine build.... should help me out with my goals...



just need to measure them with a micrometer to make sure that they will work for me...