No, they are attached to the bumper by a cheap 3" rubber coupler that I cut in half.(half for each side) I just sandwiched the bumper between the flange and coupler and then used the supplied worm clamps to lock it in place. I'm really terrible at remembering to take pictures. I get in the middle of doing something and don't think about it until later. I can try to get a picture tomorrow or something and post it on here to show how the flange is mounted if that would help.

As far as the wire mesh goes, I couldn't deside what to get, where to get it and how to install it so it wouldn't look ricey so I just...didn't.

 

I did almost this exact same thing with my fog light holes. The aluminum piece we used for the holes is perfectly round. The fog light holes have just the slightest oval shape to them. They are more narrower top to bottom and so I had to file down the tops and the bottom of that outer lip you can see from the front. Just a couple mm each side. They can be pressed in there, but it touches the paint a little hard and I was worried about them scratching.

I then used 3M yellow weather stripping glue to hold them in place. But I imagine any good glue would work here. I haven't had a screen on mine in 5k miles and no issues yet. Though some sort of screen wouldn't be a bad idea. I've thought about it, but just never got around to worrying about it.

 

How do you find the seating now, for longer distances and also how well it holds you at G's?

 

I went through a similar front main problem. I had an oem and a Felpro side by side and felt that the Felpro was a better quality seal. Then I checked the spring that goes around the inside and went with the better spring (I pretty sure it was the oem spring). You can also unscrew the spring and cut about 1/8" or so out of the windings and screw it back together. This will put slightly more pressure against the crank.

 

I haven't been on too long of a drive with the defoamed seat yet, about an hour long or so but my back used to start hurting even in that short amount of time. Now it doesn't. The bottom seat cushion does hold me slightly better in a turn now too. Height wise I may have gained an inch or so. I still wouldn't be about to pass a broomstick test if my life depended on it.

Thanks for the input, my engine builder suggested the same thing about shortening the spring. I didn't have the same experience with the Felpro/OEM comparison as you did. The seal that I got from Advanced Auto was a Felpro(fell right into the pump housing) I will be trying the OEM seal with a shortened spring the next chance I get. The only good that has come from this is how quick I have gotten at pulling the timing assembly.. I'll report back my findings after the install.

 

That leak is curious. Mine has the same front noise leak but I believe mines from the oil pan.
Are you able to mic. the ID and OD? Then go to O'reilly and ask for them to find it.
O'reilly>All :P

 

I should be able to get a mic on the crank when I tear it apart. I can just use the OD of the OEM seal since it's really nice and snug.and I don't see me mic being able to get to that with the crank in the way.

 

I didn't think about researching for you while I was at work(O'Reilly) Damn it. Sorry man.
I don't see why a direct replacement seal would do that unless it rolled while putting it in? Did you use any petroleum while putting it in? While in the Airforce we used that **** all the time on seals for the aircraft.

 

It's not a big deal but thanks. I'm not sure either but both the O'reillys and Advanced Auto Parts replacement seals were wrong. Yes, I put some petroleum on the seal before installing it as well.

 

Finally got to get some more work done on the car and fixed the oil leak.
I remembered to snap a picture of the inside of the front bumper where my flanges are mounted for the brake ducts and finished the routing the hoses for the ducts.




I was able to finish the install of my ARP extended wheel studs as well. To get around having to remove the rear hub I simply notched out a section of the backing plate just big enough to get the wheel studs in and out.



My wife surprised me by regisitering me for the next HPDE event in April so I'm definitely excited about that and I decided to go ahaed and pull the trigger on ordering a Fab9 COP kit and the 11.75" TSE BBK! More to come after the holiday...

 

great build !!!!!! , plus you gota pic of me at Miatapoloza.

 

Great to see the progress Frank! You beat me to the wheel studs and the brake ducting. I have the same tool for the ball joints and will have to use your method of pressing the wheel studs. Keep it up!

 

That is the scariest ball joint tool I've ever seen. I'm guessing its this guy? 3/4" Forged Ball Joint Separator. Looks like I know where I'm stopping at lunch today.

Thanks for the more pics of the duct things, more props for you! I need to order some more stuff from AircraftSpruce so I'll get the 3" duct flanges, but I'm having a problem finding the 3"-2" aluminum reducers. I see them on the F.A.S.T. website, but I'd rather not spend $50 on then

 

Yep, that's the tool I used. Make sure to only do one stud at a time incase you run into any snags with the tool. It takes a minute to get the hang of it. (The spacer and lug nut in my picture is just there to hold the stud in straight while I set up the tool. )

F.A.S.T. Was really the only place I found one that t thought had a quick enough reducer. I know they aren't cheap but I was set on going in that direction.

 

Just ordered FM's rear powerlite brake upgrade. I would have gone with a full FM kit but I feel like TSE's replacement rotor cost will eventually make up for the initial cost of buying two kits. I also have Carbotech AX6 pads on order aswell.

 

I may have missed this... AX6's on the fronts/rears/all around?

 

All around

 

Going stir crazy waiting for all of my goodies to get here!

I did get bored one night last week and desided to put the factory strut tower brace back one after adding a home brew master cylinder brace to it.

 

Let us know if the fab9 stuff is garbage or not.

That ducting doesn't look like enough slack for full turn. I could be wrong though.
Nice progress and goodies to come though!

 

Will do, once I get the COP kit installed we will be tuning for 18psi. We might try to max out my current MAP sensor (21-22psi) if the mid-range wastegate I have installed will allow it without me swapping out to the high-boost wastegate. At a minimum, 18psi is the plan.

I installed each side of the ducting individually with each wheel at full turn so there aren't any issues there.

Yes LOTS of goodies to come! Currently waiting on shipments from 5 different venders/members!