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Old 10-24-2012, 10:40 PM   #461
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It was always the plan to offer VVTuner as an unassembled kit. However the assembly had a couple of aspects that we felt may be too awkward for some users, so we decided to offer assembled only.

Recently we respun the board. It's the same design, just a somewhat different layout and form factor. The new board is much easier to assemble, so we'll offer it as both assembled and unassembled kits in the future. That's coming, but I don't want to launch that before figuring out this other thing.

The sync issue is not related to the old layout or the new layout. Graeme had an old board and Reverant a new board. Not sure what Hustler has.
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:55 PM   #462
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Fixed? We'll see tomorrow.
Well at least it still runs and I didn't burn your place down.
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:33 PM   #463
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Yes. You leave some on the table compared to a standalone, but a NA6 with VVT swap, stock computer, and standalone VVTuner will make substantially more torque than stock. With the same swap but without VVTuner, you leave a huge amount of torque out of the mid end. A standalone can still mean 10+ ft lbs down low and 5+ hp up top (on a stock engine).
Ben,
Are you saying that you can run an NA6 or NA8 stock ECU from the VVTuner or are you still recommending to use the NA CAS for the ECU? That is what I wanted to do from the start, but I could not get it to work.
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:43 AM   #464
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Ben,
Are you saying that you can run an NA6 or NA8 stock ECU from the VVTuner or are you still recommending to use the NA CAS for the ECU? That is what I wanted to do from the start, but I could not get it to work.
You should be able to use the VVTuner with with the stock 90-97 ECU. It has the option to convert the NB cam/crank signals to the same signals that a CAS outputs.
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:36 AM   #465
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(Note: I haz correct boomslang and would pay one of you goobers to build an interface harness. PM me)
buy a boomslang.us patch harness and do it yourself, it would be hella easy. Or PM me.
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:50 AM   #466
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You should be able to use the VVTuner with with the stock 90-97 ECU. It has the option to convert the NB cam/crank signals to the same signals that a CAS outputs.
Have you tried this yourself?
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Old 10-25-2012, 10:03 AM   #467
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Have you tried this yourself?
I personally never ran it that way. I was planning on it, but MS3X added VVT support before I got a chance to try. I know based on the documentation that it should be doable and should work.
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Old 10-25-2012, 10:07 AM   #468
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Sync loss is still there. I will go even tighter on the CKP. Is there a chance these used sensors are bad and if so, how can I check that? I have two new sensors but those were resrved for the track car. Oh well, more god damned money.
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Old 10-25-2012, 11:05 AM   #469
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Loosing crank or cam? The NB cam sensors are known unreliable, especially in the VVT head. Though I've so far never needed them, I keep a spare cam sensor in the glovebox of the street car and another one in the trailer for the track car.
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Old 10-25-2012, 11:12 AM   #470
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Loosing crank or cam? The NB cam sensors are known unreliable, especially in the VVT head. Though I've so far never needed them, I keep a spare cam sensor in the glovebox of the street car and another one in the trailer for the track car.
Sync loss #32. I suppose I'll put the new sensors in and buy another round of spares from Mazdacomp.
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Old 10-25-2012, 11:16 AM   #471
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What is funny is that I have never had an issue with NB sensors in the past 2 years with them actually working. I have used 3-4 different crank sensors during that time, all have been used. Mostly because I always forget to remove them when I am removing the crank pully bolt and I end up breaking the plastic mounting tab for the crank sensor.
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Old 10-25-2012, 01:05 PM   #472
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Sync loss #32. I suppose I'll put the new sensors in and buy another round of spares from Mazdacomp.
Don't buy anything yet. Remove VVTuner, replace with dummy plug, run the car for a couple of day with the dummy plug. See if you get anything in those two days.
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Old 10-25-2012, 02:45 PM   #473
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buy a boomslang.us patch harness and do it yourself, it would be hella easy. Or PM me.
I'd love to do it myself. I can solder wires together and I can mount through hole components, I just have a hard time with wiring diagrams without really specific instructions.

I'll stop crapping up Hustlers thread and start my own. With blackjack, and hookers, and stupid wiring diagram questions. ...or expect a PM
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Old 10-25-2012, 02:59 PM   #474
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i could draw you an easy to follow picture. we are talking splicing 15 wires, and maybe cutting 2.
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Old 10-25-2012, 04:07 PM   #475
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i could draw you an easy to follow picture. we are talking splicing 15 wires, and maybe cutting 2.
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...nms-ecu-69111/

Let's do this thing!
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:46 PM   #476
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Sync loss #32. I suppose I'll put the new sensors in and buy another round of spares from Mazdacomp.
Let me know if you want me to remove the two jumper wires and put the two transistors back
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Old 10-26-2012, 03:07 AM   #477
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Let me know if you want me to remove the two jumper wires and put the two transistors back
You mean the two resistors, right?
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Old 10-26-2012, 11:52 AM   #478
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You mean the two resistors, right?
Naw, R2 and R3 weren't there

I removed Q2 and Q3 as Graeme showed in his picture so I could solder in the jumper wires

Trey's board has a R/A through board DB15 connector, so it wasn't possible to reposition wires as you suggested
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Old 10-26-2012, 12:03 PM   #479
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Reposition the wires on the plug, not on the PCB. Undo whatever you have done.
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Old 10-26-2012, 12:08 PM   #480
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Reposition the wires on the plug, not on the PCB. Undo whatever you have done.
Reverant, there are no wires on the plug. There are pins going through the PCB.

Similar to this: http://www.amphenolcanada.com/Produc...7XXXXAXX0X.pdf

No solder cups. No wires. Pins that are soldered directly to the PCB.
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