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Old 03-13-2012, 10:06 AM   #41
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Do you have pics? I am interested in the M-Tuned rail only because I know it will fit (after trimming) and it won't require me to get anything fabbed-up. I'm trying to minimize cost on this car because I just dropped $250 on new window regulators and $100 on a battery.
I will take pictures tonight of the fuel rail and whatnot.

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Lets talk about reliability problems. I bought this car in 2007 with 86k miles. It looked bad. I've already replaced every hose in the car now this week was rough.
In a span of three days I had some problems:
Broken window regulator
dead battery
dead ignition switch
dead window switch
bad "new" window regulator
tragically leaking rear caliper
and now today, on the way to work, broken header.

I think its time I pulled the engine and swapped-in the swap motor, but money is the problem. Its time to do it right if I'm going to keep it, I cannot afford to buy a nicer car so we're going to keep this one.
I had the same bad luck with my DD these past few months. Diff died, then broke rear subframe, then swapped to 1.8 brakes. After dropping far more cash into the car then I wanted it is now running and seems to be reliable again.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:09 AM   #42
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Old cars. Crap breaks. You work on the old, broken stuff or you pay big bucks to get newer (hopefully not broken) cars.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:19 AM   #43
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Yeah, I know this stuff happens. However, its a bitch to do so much work on such an ugly car. I'm totally out of money now so I can't buy a decent roller. When MS2 gets here I'm going to take a week off from work and probably swap engines then. It will be a new car when I'm done but man, try hitting me at a harder time. So much for tracking my car this year.

Its really funny how I dropped cash on MS2 and then suddenly everything on the car falls apart and the car turns into a huge mess.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:47 AM   #44
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broke rear subframe
Is your DD a miata? If so, I want to know how how this happened.
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:45 AM   #45
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your parts car needs a parts car
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Old 03-13-2012, 12:42 PM   #46
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Has anyone ever run a VVT engine on a factory computer off a CAS? I may swap engines as early as this weekend and I do not have a computer yet.
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Old 03-13-2012, 12:54 PM   #47
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Should run fine, may lose a little torque down low. Make sure you set the static spark advance so that you don't get any pinging from the 10:1 compression ratio.
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:16 PM   #48
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Should run fine, may lose a little torque down low. Make sure you set the static spark advance so that you don't get any pinging from the 10:1 compression ratio.
Does anyone have a wire-wire color list for wiring in the 2001 coils? You are dealing with a full-on retard here. I also need some dwell numbers for the future.
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:42 PM   #49
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Does anyone have a wire-wire color list for wiring in the 2001 coils? You are dealing with a full-on retard here. I also need some dwell numbers for the future.
One thing that I did not mention to you in the pm I sent was about the dwell on the 01+ coils. I am not sure what it is or if the 94 ecu can handle it. I will ask the smart man named Y8s.

EDIT.

Here is a link to info on dwell timing and such that Y8s found for me, because I am a lazy ----.

Last edited by shuiend; 03-13-2012 at 02:05 PM.
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Old 03-13-2012, 02:47 PM   #50
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What is the best route to go for spark on the VVt engine in my 1994? I have coils for the VVT engine, but then I don't have a tach. If I get a tach output on the computer, do I have to wire-in the new tach output or can that be taken care-of on the MS2-Miata conversion harness?

Right now I think it would be best to keep the factory coils, but I don't know how or where to mount them. Thoughts?

Last edited by hustler; 03-13-2012 at 02:59 PM.
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Old 03-13-2012, 02:57 PM   #51
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If you ditch the 94 coils, it is no problem at all with the MS2 adapter harness.
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Old 03-13-2012, 02:59 PM   #52
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I assume the MS2's that Reverant makes would include the tach-out circuit built in. So it would all be handled by the adapter harness. It is simply hooking up 1 wire from the MS to the white/black wire in the stock harness.
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Old 03-13-2012, 03:05 PM   #53
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If you ditch the 94 coils, it is no problem at all with the MS2 adapter harness.
Awesome, let's do that. Thanks for chiming in. I don't know what I don't know (see signature). Are there any variables you need to confirm with me so you can start building my computer? I want to leave no stone unturned.

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I assume the MS2's that Reverant makes would include the tach-out circuit built in. So it would all be handled by the adapter harness. It is simply hooking up 1 wire from the MS to the white/black wire in the stock harness.
right, but that means I have to add it to my task-sheet.

A big problem for me is a sad one, I don't really know how to read a wire diagram. I need to figure this out, fast. It's a good thing I bought that 2001 engine harness a few months ago. I don't know how to look at each wire on either wire diagram and know which wire goes where. I have to figure this out for the CAS-CKP/CMP conversion which must take place too. I know you posted that somewhere, I'll find it and add it to this thread.


I read through that thread you linked and I still don't know what my dwell settings should be because I'm reading settings and measurements that I don't understand. I also don't know which amperage number I should use for MS because although I assume MS2 uses the standard 12v number, I'm uncertain.
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Old 03-13-2012, 03:16 PM   #54
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For later:
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Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
The VVT plug has 2 wires, Purple and I believe Yellow-Purple. Basically you hook one of them to the same 12v wire on the CAS plug that you hook the cam and crank 12v to. Then you run the other VVT wire back to your MS.
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95 CAS sensor Plug Colors
Yellow/Blue - Cam Signal
White - Crank Signal
White/Red - Power
Black/Light Green - Ground

99 Cam Sensor Wires
White/Red - Power
Grey/Blue - Cam Signal
Black/Blue - Ground

99 Crank Sensor Wires
White/Red - Power
Grey/Red - Crank Signal
Black/Blue - Ground

So to hook the NB Sensors up to the NA wires you need to do the following.
Black/Blue from both Cam/Crank plugs goes to Black/Light Green
White/Red from both Cam/Crank plugs goes to White/Red
Grey/Blue from Cam goes to Yellow/Blue
Grey/Red from Crank goes to White



For VVT you run one of the wires to the White/Red wire on the CAS.
The other wire gets ran back to your MS connector. I am not sure how Reverent will have you hook it up, but he should be able to give you more details.
This forum and the member's generosity is awesome. I owe you guys so much beer that I'm going to need a loan to pay for my next trip to visit.
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Old 03-13-2012, 03:47 PM   #55
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Quote:
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right, but that means I have to add it to my task-sheet.
Realistically you don't need to add anything to you task-sheet. When you get your MS2 from Reverant you should be able to plug it in and if you are using the 01 coils you should get a tach signal fine. I just do not know if he adds in that wire by default on the ones he builds for 94's.


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I read through that thread you linked and I still don't know what my dwell settings should be because I'm reading settings and measurements that I don't understand. I also don't know which amperage number I should use for MS because although I assume MS2 uses the standard 12v number, I'm uncertain.
The biggest issue with dwell that will have to be investigated is if the stock 94 ecu will run the 01 coils fine. I know for Toyota cops you are supposed to use a dwell reducer circuit if you are on the stock ecu, I just don't know if something like that would be required for 01 coils. Once you get the MS2 in then setting dwell should be easy and trivial.
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Old 03-13-2012, 04:01 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
Realistically you don't need to add anything to you task-sheet. When you get your MS2 from Reverant you should be able to plug it in and if you are using the 01 coils you should get a tach signal fine. I just do not know if he adds in that wire by default on the ones he builds for 94's.
The tach circuit is built on ALL the MS2s I build, as I use the tach signal with my expansion board.

Having said that, I don't wire the output on the 90-95.5, unless I have reasons to, like with Trey's unit.
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Old 03-13-2012, 04:29 PM   #57
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Thanks guys. It looks like I only have one unknown yet and that's the wire conversion for the coils. If anyone has this data, I'd love to know which wire goes where.

thanks for building my car for me.
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Old 03-13-2012, 04:54 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by Reverant View Post
The tach circuit is built on ALL the MS2s I build, as I use the tach signal with my expansion board.

Having said that, I don't wire the output on the 90-95.5, unless I have reasons to, like with Trey's unit.
I figured you would build it into them all and then just not actually wire the output, I just have never looked at one of your MS2's to know for sure.

Do you have any clue what would happen if you wired the tach-out output up to a car that also has the coils driving the tach?

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Originally Posted by hustler View Post
Thanks guys. It looks like I only have one unknown yet and that's the wire conversion for the coils. If anyone has this data, I'd love to know which wire goes where.

thanks for building my car for me.
I will figure it out for you tonight. If you promise me a double dutch rudder and pay for the round trip plane ticket I will even fly out and wire it all up for you.
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Old 03-13-2012, 05:08 PM   #59
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Do you have any clue what would happen if you wired the tach-out output up to a car that also has the coils driving the tach?
Either a synchronicity event or a resonance cascade. Just a matter of luck really.

Meaning that you can either get a non-working tacho, a proper working one or get double RPMs, VTEC yo.
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Old 03-13-2012, 05:12 PM   #60
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Either a synchronicity event or a resonance cascade. Just a matter of luck really.

Meaning that you can either get a non-working tacho, a proper working one or get double RPMs, VTEC yo.
If I was not afraid of blowing up my ms3x, I would say I would try just to find out.
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