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Old 04-09-2012, 03:28 PM   #141
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Does anyone have a log and or a pic of your enrichments working perfectly? Is there any way to eliminate the lean-spike on accell? I don't really understand the practical application of the transient fuel theory stuff. I get how pooling works but I don't understand if its possible to eliminate the over-richness post throttle application.
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:41 PM   #142
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Post a log of enrichment problems. Its ok if it goes lean for less than 0.1s, as long as the engine doesn't bog down and accelerates as intended.
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:45 PM   #143
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Post a log of enrichment problems. Its ok if it goes lean for less than 0.1s, as long as the engine doesn't bog down and accelerates as intended.
I will when I get home later.
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:57 PM   #144
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It will live on as a boat anchor or something. Actually, I'm giving it to RHarris.
Where it will live out the rest of its life in style, in a LeMons car.

Our last motor took a solid 60+ hours of racing before it spun a bearing, but really that was because it consumed WAY more oil than we thought and ran low. LeMons doesn't allow you to check those things in hot pits. It also had 270,000 miles on it when we put it in.

This motor should be pretty on par by the sound of it.
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:04 PM   #145
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Originally Posted by rharris19 View Post
Where it will live out the rest of its life in style, in a LeMons car.

Our last motor took a solid 60+ hours of racing before it spun a bearing, but really that was because it consumed WAY more oil than we thought and ran low. LeMons doesn't allow you to check those things in hot pits. It also had 270,000 miles on it when we put it in.

This motor should be pretty on par by the sound of it.
You should put the old dead motor in the trunk with a big chain on it and label it the boat anchor.
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:48 PM   #146
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Talk to me about this.

Also remember the engine in my car currently is hurt and sad. It detonates on 25* of spark at 4000rpm on 93-octane and I checked timing calibration. It will live on as a boat anchor or something. Actually, I'm giving it to RHarris.
i will just paste from the brain of the internets:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wikipedia
EGR in spark-ignited engines

The exhaust gas, added to the fuel, oxygen, and combustion products, increases the specific heat capacity of the cylinder contents, which lowers the adiabatic flame temperature.

In a typical automotive spark-ignited (SI) engine, 5 to 15 percent of the exhaust gas is routed back to the intake as EGR. The maximum quantity is limited by the requirement of the mixture to sustain a contiguous flame front during the combustion event; excessive EGR in poorly set up applications can cause misfires and partial burns. Although EGR does measurably slow combustion, this can largely be compensated for by advancing spark timing. The impact of EGR on engine efficiency largely depends on the specific engine design, and sometimes leads to a compromise between efficiency and NOx emissions. A properly operating EGR can theoretically increase the efficiency of gasoline engines via several mechanisms:
  • Reduced throttling losses. The addition of inert exhaust gas into the intake system means that for a given power output, the throttle plate must be opened further, resulting in increased inlet manifold pressure and reduced throttling losses.
  • Reduced heat rejection. Lowered peak combustion temperatures not only reduces NOx formation, it also reduces the loss of thermal energy to combustion chamber surfaces, leaving more available for conversion to mechanical work during the expansion stroke.
  • Reduced chemical dissociation. The lower peak temperatures result in more of the released energy remaining as sensible energy near TDC, rather than being bound up (early in the expansion stroke) in the dissociation of combustion products. This effect is minor compared to the first two.
It also decreases the efficiency of gasoline engines via at least one more mechanism:
  • Reduced specific heat ratio. A lean intake charge has a higher specific heat ratio than an EGR mixture. A reduction of specific heat ratio reduces the amount of energy that can be extracted by the piston.
EGR is typically not employed at high loads because it would reduce peak power output. This is because it reduces the intake charge density. EGR is also omitted at idle (low-speed, zero load) because it would cause unstable combustion, resulting in rough idle. The EGR valve also cools the exhaust valves and makes them last far longer (a very important benefit under light cruise conditions).[citation needed]

Since the EGR system recirculates a portion of exhaust gases, over time the valve can become clogged with carbon deposits that prevent it from operating properly. Clogged EGR valves can sometimes be cleaned, but replacement is necessary if the valve is faulty.
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Old 04-09-2012, 05:05 PM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rharris19 View Post
Where it will live out the rest of its life in style, in a LeMons car.

Our last motor took a solid 60+ hours of racing before it spun a bearing, but really that was because it consumed WAY more oil than we thought and ran low. LeMons doesn't allow you to check those things in hot pits. It also had 270,000 miles on it when we put it in.

This motor should be pretty on par by the sound of it.
You should get a front and rear main seals for it because I'm fairly certain that the guy who had it before me forgot to put these seals in. Like, it leaks so much oil that I don't think there is a seal in there.
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Old 04-09-2012, 05:09 PM   #148
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i will just paste from the brain of the internets:
As I understand, its only active under cruise-type conditions but I can't tell if its more for emissions or fuel economy. I know there are a couple threads on here where people ask about adding it, but no one ever really looked into it further. Is there a way to activate an output at say 48-70kpa between 3000-4000rpm, switch to a second table, and save money?
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Old 04-09-2012, 05:29 PM   #149
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EGR is for emissions AND fuel economy. The mention of it in this thread has piqued my interest and I'm gonna go unblock mine and wire it up.
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Old 04-09-2012, 05:41 PM   #150
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EGR is for emissions AND fuel economy. The mention of it in this thread has piqued my interest and I'm gonna go unblock mine and wire it up.
I think the EGR solenoid is dead in my car since it no worky. I suspect I can get one on here approaching "free" considering our general disregard for Mother Earth.
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:44 PM   #151
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When do I start adjusting for fuel on walls? It seems that I need more fuel for ~30% throttle than say 60% which doesn't make sense to me.
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:50 PM   #152
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I think the EGR solenoid is dead in my car since it no worky. I suspect I can get one on here approaching "free" considering our general disregard for Mother Earth.
It probably just needs the valve and EGR passage in the intake manifold cleaned out.

I have an extra one somewhere... It just occurred to me that I only have an NB2 EGR pipe, which is apparently somewhat shorter than the NA EGR pipe, and has a different fitting than my NA header. Gonna have to do some welding, I think.
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:01 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryce View Post
It probably just needs the valve and EGR passage in the intake manifold cleaned out.

I have an extra one somewhere... It just occurred to me that I only have an NB2 EGR pipe, which is apparently somewhat shorter than the NA EGR pipe, and has a different fitting than my NA header. Gonna have to do some welding, I think.
The hardware is clean, Johnwag snaked it with his wiener. I have no doubt your plumbing is shorter than mine.

Next time I go to Houston, we should meat up and eat pig guts tacos.
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:31 PM   #154
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Thoughts on increased gas mileage, HDR apocalypse front lip with birch splitter running all the way back to the trans, wheel spats front and rear /, straight shot intake, light eBay flywheel, with 1.6 6 puck, rear bumper vents, ls1 coils, 100% real gas / no 90/10, do they make 3.30 gears?
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:38 PM   #155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacob300zx View Post
Thoughts on increased gas mileage, HDR apocalypse front lip with birch splitter running all the way back to the trans, wheel spats front and rear /, straight shot intake, light eBay flywheel, with 1.6 6 puck, rear bumper vents, ls1 coils, 100% real gas / no 90/10, do they make 3.30 gears?
+1 on aero. Hypermiler-Hustler should be entertaining.

Edit: Pool Noodle MPG mod via M.net: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=342172 Do it! You know you want to...
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:38 PM   #156
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The hardware is clean, Johnwag snaked it with his wiener. I have no doubt your plumbing is shorter than mine.

Next time I go to Houston, we should meat up and eat pig guts tacos.
Sounds like a plan.



Hot-air intake should help MPGs too.
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Old 04-10-2012, 08:52 AM   #157
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Awful acce log making me pull my hair out:
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My awesome daily project 35mpg/150whp highway donut-accel-screen.png  
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Old 04-10-2012, 09:03 AM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacob300zx View Post
Thoughts on increased gas mileage, HDR apocalypse front lip with birch splitter running all the way back to the trans, wheel spats front and rear /, straight shot intake, light eBay flywheel, with 1.6 6 puck, rear bumper vents, ls1 coils, 100% real gas / no 90/10, do they make 3.30 gears?
I'm probably going to make a belly pan, will cut the rear bumper some, might blank it off with plastic, will probably make a splitter with spats, and will remove the air-meter and hopefully flow a little better.
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Old 04-10-2012, 09:35 AM   #159
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Make sure your <1500rpm high-load cells are properly tuned, otherwise your are band-aiding the actual problem. 1st/2nd gear in an empty parking lot and use the brake to simulate the load.

Last edited by Reverant; 04-10-2012 at 09:49 AM.
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Old 04-10-2012, 09:47 AM   #160
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Make sure your <1500rpm high-load cells are properly tuned, otherwise your are band-aiding the actual problem. 1st/2nd gear in an empty log and use the brake to simulate the load.
Thanks, I will double-check those at lunch.
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