Great idea. Thanks :)
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Originally Posted by muoto
(Post 1006674)
[IMG]https://www.miataturbo.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=75175&dateline=1367302 580[IMG]
well...shit... Guess I have to brace/support that long Honda IM Maybe you didn't weld it properly? |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1006692)
That's weird cause no one else reported cracking and there are quite a few people using these now.
Maybe you didn't weld it properly? Fortunately it’s not a big deal to remove it and make it better |
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Attachment 185454
First race went as I guessed. Nothing work :bang: Brakes went first. I get max 2 laps and after that it was just praying in every corner that they work. TSE 11.75” BBK are on the way soon as TSE have time to send it.. http://www.miata.fi/kuvat/2013-05-12-14.56.jpg And then the intake manifold cracked again :( http://www.miata.fi/kuvat/2013-05-09-17.32.jpg It seems that my support brace and “runner ribs” didn’t work. There’s have to be something wrong with the welding it self... |
Bummer about the issues. :(
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Damn, what is going on with that intake manifold...
Sorry to hear about your troubles, man. |
looks like sloppy/contaminated welds and possibly not fully penetrating
but I'm nowhere near a pro welder so I'll let others chime in. all I know is that others don't have this problem, and most of them track their cars regularly |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1012318)
looks like sloppy/contaminated welds and possibly not fully penetrating
this |
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Originally Posted by muoto
(Post 1012212)
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Originally Posted by thenuge26
(Post 1012337)
Is it just the image or does it look like the crack runs right through a crater? That might be your problem.
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I'm a super noob when it comes to welding, but my instructor told me that the crater that forms when you don't feed enough when letting off the current is a major weak point when welding aluminum. I'm not sure that's what that is, but if it is that could be your cause.
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When you welded, did you bevel the edges to help penetration? Because if its not a stress fracture but a vibration/heat/weak weld fracture that its starting to seem like a fresh cut, file grind, beveled and reweld with some super cleaning might do the trick.
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Congrats on the build - I'd also consider the intercooler pipe setup. Think about how little stress is actually on those welds... That manifold can not weigh that much. Try some Vibrant hump hoses and make sure there is plenty of room to flex.. Also what engine mounts are you running? Might be quite a bit of play when you're in boost, especially between shifts.
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Originally Posted by FAB9Tuning
(Post 1012506)
I'd also consider the intercooler pipe setup. Think about how little stress is actually on those welds... That manifold can not weigh that much. Try some Vibrant hump hoses and make sure there is plenty of room to flex.. Also what engine mounts are you running? Might be quite a bit of play when you're in boost, especially between shifts.
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IM is fixed again. Next time it cracks I’m getting OEM flat-top and build SS intake manifold next winter (like hf-mx5t here: https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...e3/).
new wheels (sorry 'bout the dirty car) https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369763255 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369763255 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369763255 6UL 15x9 with 205/50 Federal 595 RSR plus I made some quick wheel alignments FR camber -2. Toe 0.0 FL camber -2,1 Toe 0.0 RR camber -1.6. Toe ~1mm RL camber -1.6 Toe ~1mm |
Dat bov noise. The ricer in me wants to block off the bpv on the efr and run one of those. The racer in me remembers that the efr bpv sounded almost exactly like that when I ran the car with the hood off on the test drive.
Sucks about the honda mani. It looks like a classic weld fatigue fail from a stray crater or cold crack. At least it wasnt a WWII ship that broke in half just as it was leaving port on its maiden voyage from the same issue. I think if you just cleaned it up more you'd be fine. BUT with the contamination on it already I dont think the current one will hold up if it gets rewelded. Because that shit is a pain in the ass to clean up. |
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1016119)
Dat bov noise. The ricer in me wants to block off the bpv on the efr and run one of those. The racer in me remembers that the efr bpv sounded almost exactly like that when I ran the car with the hood off on the test drive.
Sucks about the honda mani. It looks like a classic weld fatigue fail from a stray crater or cold crack. At least it wasnt a WWII ship that broke in half just as it was leaving port on its maiden voyage from the same issue. I think if you just cleaned it up more you'd be fine. BUT with the contamination on it already I dont think the current one will hold up if it gets rewelded. Because that shit is a pain in the ass to clean up. I don’t think there’s any wrong with the welding itself. It’s just that the Honda mani and miata flange is totally different aluminum casting. It’s really hard to get that stuff stuck to the Miata alum casting. It just “repels” the welding material. Trust me, we have tried everything and my buddy is über pro welder :fael: I was consider making my own flange to the Honda mani but then I read from the “Honda IM” thread that someone has broken flange off from the Begi alum IM manifold as well so… I guess it’s safe to say that only real proven solution is SS On a different matter, my TSE BBK package has arrived to my sea container in Houston. Now it’s just waiting it to travel 5165 miles to me. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369826572 |
It got quieter? In the video with the camera behind the rear wheel the bov like echos. :eek:
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1016171)
It got quieter? In the video with the camera behind the rear wheel the bov like echos. :eek:
What I meant to say is that in normal street driving it’s not spooling so much. And thus, bov stays quiet |
why not do what many others did and make an intake mani out of aluminum tubing?
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