Oh, don't get me wrong, I'm going to drive the **** out of it as is The above was more of a thought experiment than anything else.

But if I'm going to be doing a lot of trackday shenanigans and possibly driving to venues for said shenanigans, its something I'm going to continue to at least consider for the future. Slowing down spool slightly while giving more top end efficiency does not sound like a bad thing. Even if the 0.85 A/R didn't start making boost till 3500 rpm I wouldn't really cry about it because on a road course, if you are around 3500 rpm you are doing something wrong.

Right now it sounds like its tuned to be very conservative, controllable, and linear and that's exactly what I want. I am excite 18's a genius with this stuff, idk how he does it. I'm going to have to completely learn to re-drive the car as it is. Trust me, I'm going to leave it alone for a while. I'm just thinking ahead to what the future for this mess might hold.

 

personally if I was gonna do something along those lines, I'd just step up to the 7163 and have stupid amounts of power potential and just sell this unit intact since it's gonna hold it's value for quite some time.

I doubt the larger housing on the 62 will make much of a difference, maybe like 200rpm

 

I was also looking at the 7163 with those same eyes, but I'm already going to have traction control issues and things like transmissions and differentials are definitely going to become consumables

 

stupid BW ebc is dead
I give it direct 12v and ground straight from the battery, and it does nothing.
No clicking, no noise, nothing.

G is sending replacement MACdaddy valve

 

On another note:
-fuel is more or less dialed in for all temps now, runs great
-car LOVES timing. in fact, at idle it actually doesn't like the normal NB 10* at all, and works with 30* best. kinda surprised me
-everything up to about 8psi midrange and 15 up top is done.
-still struggling with consistent startup
-and now waiting on new ebc

 

So I talked to a buddy and he had some cheap ebay bleed-type MBC laying around, so I borrowed it.

Put it on, turn it up a couple clicks, set overboost a bit higher, lower the timing and fatten the fuel up top and see what she does.





This is with fat afr's (as you can see) and funky boost control (as you can see) and single digit timing past 220kpa.

2nd gear now requires finesse to not break the RS3's loose and this is with 3.6FD too

 

Oh, notes on using the pimpy actuator.
Loctite the banjo bolt
Loctite the huge silver ring nut thingy.
When the banjo bolt eventually vibrates out and falls out onto the pavement you can buy this one to loctite in.

 

Oh sweet jesus, is that 14psi @ 4,400rpm I can see boost by gear is going to have to be a thing. Also, are these actually in 4th?

I have the finesse of a caveman. This should be interesting.

Hah! Awesome, thanks for the heads up Leafy I'll add that one to the spreadsheet.

 

Yep, 4th
And again this is just a garbage bleed type valve, I'm really excited to see what a proper 3 port will do.
I'm going to ask if there is Dyno time available on the 28th or 29th

 

Now that I've got a little blood in my coffee system, I'm realizing that unless we can somehow get the boost under control at low(er) RPM, boost by gear isn't going to accomplish much. I'm looking at YOU, internal wastegate.

As has been mentioned in this thread previously, I'm seriously curious as to what TSE has cooked up to keep these things in check.

Also, this will be relevant to our interests:



With port A blocked it should work just like a 3 port MAC.

 

Unless he has access to parts we dont even know about, or has special housings made (or maybe the .85ar has a bigger port?) I'm thinking stock exhaust or *gasp* some kind of restrictor will be needed.

As for boost by gear, I'm not understanding what you're saying?
Your problem is not low rpm, it's high rpm. it creeps past 5500.
on gate only it's very predictable since it builds gradually

also there's lots of things available on this MS it looks like: boost by gear, 2 separate boost maps, and you can even just run a switch to the ebc wiring and turn off ebc and run gate only at the track. Lots of options

I have a sneaking suspicion that the medium gate might actually work much better on your car then the low gate. stronger spring means less pre-load needed, and I think that should give the gate more opening degrees, which should keep boost more even and prevent some creep.

we'll see. I can't wait to get EBC working properly.

 

Have you done a pull with the wastegate completely disconnected

 

good question. I have not.
I'll try completely disconnected when I'm swapping the actuator tomorrow

also, and I'm completely serious about this, I might wash your car. it's just too dirty and that bothers me

 

<br />
<br /><br />
<br />I should leave my car with you for tuning
<br />There are so many little things wrong with the tune, that bug me, but not enough to fix them haha.

 

I'm starting to be happy with the tune. Hopefully the firmware doesn't do something stupid and make it all weird again.

Yesterday I experienced the first truly perfect cold start.
Wasn't really "cold" per se, cranking pw was showing 90-110F (it was 95F outside), but car hadn't been started for half the day and it just fired right up.

I hope to make more progress on that tomorrow

 

<p>&quot;California cold start&quot;</p>

 

I feel like I did this and it made 3~4psi near redline? I didn't log it so its probably a good idea to try it anyway. For science!

Interesting fact about the T25 IWG EFR housing: with NOTHING attached to the wastegate arm the gate and flapper assembly has enough throw to come back around and contact the turbine wheel. As long as its restrained into some "open" position is should be fine.

That's right, make me feel even worse

I know, right? There is a reason I hauled *** up there to make this happen. I know what the collection of parts I smashed together is capable of, and I also know that there is no way my meager tuning ability could do it justice. I'm just glad he's put up with me long enough to make this happen.

 

Vlad, you want to take a "vacation" down here and tune my MS3?(halfway serious, though) Nice progress on the car!

 

<p>....thats some shitty *** engineering.</p><p>And I'm sure it has been &quot;discovered&quot; by a few pissed off people.</p>

 

Welp looks like the idle valve settings are about right. just looked over Ari's tune and he's got almost the same settings for his Skunk2 TB setup as well.