The real question is when is the MS3+MS3x kit shipment arriving at my house?

 

Is the caliper clearance a 6UL thing, or....?

 

I think it's an 11.75" thing. AFAIK the only 15s that clear them are 6ul's and Team Dynamics. 15x10 clear without a spacer.

In a perfect world 6ul would come in 15x9 et30 for BBK users. A 5mm spacer isn't the end of the world though.

 

Hrm, wonder if the Jongbloeds would clear them. They seem to have an obscene amount of inner clearance.

I'd prefer to not order V8R's kit because they don't seem to have any pads other than the Wilwood BP10s. FM says they'll source different pads with their Dynapro kit, but i'd probably have to call them to order just the fronts, since i'm not interested in the rear stuff their site tries to force on you.

 

FWIW Ben, the V8R kit says it comes with BP20's. I don't know what that means, but there you go.

You all are right. These are still great brakes. I'm just disappointed since I somewhat pride myself on researching all the options and finding the best deal, and I failed at that.

Aidan, I'm planning on sorting the MS in May/June. budgeting, etc. I think I need to sell this S2k. I am going to love it but I spent too much money. I am very much leaning towards having you build my MS3 if you're still open to it at that time. I just gotta get past tax time and I'll be all set.

Thanks for the advice gentlemen.

 

May/June will be hectic, but I will be back in portland full-time mid June.

I would probably build it here and then get it all up and running once I move to portland. We will make it work.

 

I wouldn't be surprised if 9" Jongbloeds would clear 11.75". The 10s did by a large margin. The 8s only needed a small spacer to clear. Given that 9s should fall in between they should be ok. As always, test to be sure.

 

No worries Aidan, I won't even need it til July at the earliest. I'm trying to be realistic here. This is gonna take some time.

 

So... I used a couple dabs of epoxy to stick the hubcentric rings to my 6ULs, now I can't forget them. Would it be a terrible idea to follow this logic and do something similar with the spacers? Srs question because I've never run spacers on anything, ever.

 

I can't see the epoxy surviving the heat cycles and mechanical stresses between the hat and wheel. And if it does, it's going to be a fairly permanent solution.

Masking tape with "spacers" written on it on the steering wheel is a lot less effort. Or a tiny checklist taped onto the windshield surround up by where your visors used to be. Etc.

Not swapping your tires in the morning of your track day in a brain fog as a GI bug begins its initial invasion - best bet.

 

Forgetting the spacers is really only likely to be an issue if you leave the wheels off for a long period of time. If you're just swapping between street and track tires, then you just leave the spacer on the studs (you do have the extra-long ARP studs, right?). Even if falls off, it's pretty obvious when you back out of the garage and notice the spacer lying on the floor.

The hub centric adapters are easy to forget if you swap between wheels that need them and wheels that don't.

--Ian

 

I still have stock studs. So I do have to do extended studs? It doesn't make sense to me that you need them. The FFD wheels I had have an extra 12mm in the center of the wheel to get the +20 offset and it didn't seem to cause any issues.

Is this the wrong way of looking at it? you guys know I want to do it right, but I also don't want to do stuff that's unnecessary.

 

Some people will say you need them, some people will say you won't.

I'm no help

 

I've always been told that the rule of thumb is that you want at least as much thread engaged as the diameter of the fastener. Since they're 12mm x 1.5 studs that means you want 8 threads. A 5mm spacer is going to lose you 3 threads of engagement -- do you have 11 now? I doubt it.

IMHO, yes, the longer studs are required. Hell, mine was marginal just with the aluminum hat rotors (thicker than factory rotors, therefore acting as a 2-ish mm spacer).

--Ian

 

Josh and I talked about it tonight. 949 and TSE say stock is fine but I may well go with longer ones. Not really a huge cost but it's sure a large risk.

 

I mean...while you're in there...

Better to overbuild than underbuild I guess.

 

You are already going to have most of it pulled apart to do bushings and such, you might as well repack the hubs and install the ARP studs while its all pulled apart.

I did NOT install my studs when I had it all apart and I regret this decision. It'll happen when I do bushings and hub inspection, but its something I'm reminded of every time I swap wheels/tires.

 

Agreed, get it done while you're in there. Better now than to regret it later. That's why I swapped my studs too.

 

Ed,

first, I forgot to give you your EGR block off plates last night. Doh!

second, I'm most likely ordering studs for the MSM, hold off on ordering and I can use my own club orange discount to save on some shipping, you can pick them up with the EGR plates, just let me know how many sets you want.

 

How many can he break per trackday?