Yes, Andrew assembles, safety-wires, and (I believe) resbonds the hats to the rotors.

--Ian

 

All of the above, yes. What you pull out of the box is a rotor&hat ready to go on the car.

Having recently done these things to install my replacement rotors to my hats, it is a PITA, and well worth the $100. My wiring job is not as nice as Andrews' but it will suffice.

Ed: Properly torque and resbond those bolts. Check them twice. I haz resbond if you need.

I am somewhat surprised at the lack of safety wiring - these fasteners fall into the "extremely critical, failure real bad" category.

 

Well there you have it. It becomes a $140 difference after the club orange discount but perhaps it would have been worth it. Oh well. Hope others can learn from this. I'll be buying some goodies from TSE shortly... Need brake ducts and such.

I will indeed take you up on your resbond offer... Unless I should just go buy my own since I'm going to be reassembling an entire car. I expect there are other bits that could benefit from it?

Spare me some research please guys... Will need to drill and tap the control arms for zerks for poly bushings. Think a HF tap set will work or do I need to buy a higher quality one?

 

Yep. I'm surprised that nobody else provides safety wire on those fasteners either. Right now, I wire every 11.75 kit that goes out. That will change when our V2 kit releases later this year - we'll reduce the retail price substantially and make the wiring job an option. Some people see value in it, others don't, so we'll give people the option.

 

I'm not gonna question the business decision to offer the option either way, but it's highly respectable that you wire EVERY KIT before it goes out. I think that's the right thing to do given the part, good business IMO.

 

^agreed. As for now Andrew you might make a bigger point of it in your product description. I missed it when researching. But I'm kindof a **** so maybe it's just me.

Oh well, more fun project time.

 

That seems expensive and excessive. Resbond comes into its own with things that will be exposed to excessive heat. For regular tasks I see no reason why Loctite Blue 243 (the oil resistant one) can't do the job.

Mine seem to be working fine. I think I have the 60+ piece set with taps and dies, SAE and Metric. The shanks on the taps are a little spindly but mine survived me retapping my flange after my weld blob/resbond/stud disaster. I would/will use them for zerks. The only tap I've found missing from the kit I needed was the M10x1.25. It has the M10 in x1.0 and x1.5 but no x1.25 so I can retap my shift ****

I've got a set of Dynalites so Ive been pondering the 11.75 "upgrade" listed on your site. Is there any reason I should wait for the V2 set? Will the upgrade continue to be an option?

 

Um...

 

Ed, go to Home Depot. Buy a package of 2-4 drill bits of the correct size (see chart below, 'R' for 1/8NPT, or .339"). Then buy 2 of their taps, not Harbor Freight. If you hear any snaps or crackles or pops while tapping, blow off the tap with some compressed air and inspect the teeth for any chipping. If you see any chipping, throw away the tap and use #2.

If you take your time and go at it with a methodical method, I don't see why the 20 zerks you have to install would take more than a few drills and 2ish taps.

 

Thanks Josh, that's super helpful. Propped. I'll do that.

G, your package arrived yesterday, though I have not yet opened it. I thought I made that post the day before yesterday... didn't i?

 

This^ Mobius has plenty of his blue goo, and is very generous in sharing it. But if you are dying to have your own. There is some on ebay for like $25.

 

Ok, cool. Now I can breathe again

 

Lube the tap with some oil, any kind really, and back it out a 1/4 turn or so after progressing 1/2 turn or so. This will let the debris clear and help keep it sharper longer. Add a drop of oil every now and then.

Just cranking it straight through will work, but the tap will wear out quick and chip and whatnot.

Josh may have more precise instructions.

 

Thanks for the tips. I've used a tap before so am familiar with how it feels, but I don't own my own set.

Fun times ahead....

 

Thread cutting fluid will make it go faster, and the tap will last about 30x longer.

 

Tapping aluminum, WD-40 or kerosene are the preferred lubricants. Tapping fluid is available for aluminum, but it's just oil and kerosene, for the most part.

On the other hand, tapping steel requires a good tapping fluid. I prefer Tapmagic, but there are others out there. Plain oil just won't do as well. If oil is all you have, try using a full synthetic. I use Mobil 1 on the lathe and mill as cutting fluid.

 

How thick are the control arms in these spots?
Seriously can't be over 1/8" can it?

Don't over think it.

 

Are the self tapping zerks a no-no? Thats what I used on mine and they seemed to work great.

Drill > Deburr > Install > repeat

 

^ah right, I was thinking about those. Do you have a build thread on that? If not, I remember reading one at one point so i'll have to dig it up again.

I really need to create a little repository for useful things like that...

 

No, its on my list of things to do though! I have bunch of updates I'm working on and once I get everything done I'll be doing that. But I digress...

I am building up an NB front end for my NA so its fresh in my mind.

Kingfisher 3apa8 6mm zerk