Depends, for what purpose, what vintage, motor, trans, $?, etc.

 

<p>89 single cab iron duke.</p><p>I want to put NOS on it.</p>

 

<p>Stereo is worth more than the truck.</p><p>I want a drag truck.</p>

 

I've always wanted to jam a duke. I wish theyd take boost without block venting.

 

<p></p><p>As said before I don't want a v8 miata. thats easy button.</p>

 

Yes yes yes, perfect drag candidate.

 

That's a light truck, would make good cheap drag rig. You could v8 swap that thing for dirt, especially if you can read wiring diagrams.

I bet it is missing rocker panels and cab corners and wheel arches and lots more though. Body mounts, look at them. Frame twist, shot body, lolol

 

<p>I'll take pictures.</p><p>Neither door works well.&nbsp;I'll just weld them up.</p>

 

That's common, the door hinges are glued on or some ****. I can't remember exactly. There's a brass bushing you can replace to fix the sag, but you have to cut the pin out.

Or something like that. Cheap but involved repair. S10...

 

Oh yeah, speaking of brakes, I've got rear brackets printing now for test fitting. Still need to fit the front bracket I printed. Going to test them both at the same time tomorrow night.

 

yup, theyre light, and you can gen1 v8 swap for around $1500 if you really try.

Wiring on these truck is easy
V8S10.ORG ? View topic - 1rst gen schematics and firewall connections info


Theyre bolted on, but yea the bushings and pins wear out and they sag. Its so common theyre in the help section at autozone/oreily, its not too bad, takes a half hour or so.


-v8 swap $2k for gen1 SBC
-rear end: they came with 7.5" 10 bolt rears. Some last forever under constant 500hp launches, some grenade going to the grocery store, run it till it blows. pull the 3rd leaf in the spring pack, install SADFAB "caltracs" and drag shocks. Fit 275 tires easily, 285 with the right wheels or 305 or more if you want to trim the bed. $800
-safety stuffs

go drag racing

optional- hi_im_sean big brake kit and rear blazer disc swap

 

You sure about the bolt on part?



This is what I'm familiar with on 1st gens, it doesn't unbolt and there's no adjustment. The pin is swedged in place, so you have to cut it out.

 

<p>Is $2k all inclusive?</p>

 

2K would get you rolling down the road, you'll spend more for traction bars, rear end, wheels and tires, brakes hopefully...

But it would get you started.

 

*** i guess not lol. was it 2nd gens that are bolted then?

edit- i must be confusing full size trucks or something, my bad tommy

 

like i said, if you do it right, and thats not going to be a fire breathing monster by any stretch

j/y vortec motor with a 700r4 or 4l60 can be had for $800, get the ecm and harness for another $100. swap headers and motor mounts $250. you dont need an oil pan, it just make s it easier and requires less hammer. Run your own exhaust, shorten driveshaft, j/y cross member from 4.3 truck, fuel odds and ends another $5-600

edit- radiator too

 

I wouldn't waste time on a smallblock, just shove a 5.3 in there. They are cheaper than the old vortec smallbocks anymore anyway. I don't think they really cost much more, if you can weld at least.

You can get stainless shorty manifolds for $200, oil pan, you've got a tig. Motor mounts aren't more than $200. A 5.3 and 4l60 is $1k around here.

Do itt!

 

youre right, i keep thinking lsx motors are $$$, but the 4.8 and 5.3 are so cheap these days.

then throw boost at it!!!

 

Yeah, do it like this. Drag truck for cheap.

 

Aidan that there /\ is the "mopar" master cylinder

kinda forgot about that lol