I finally uploaded my March Sebring pics.
Stock wheels for pictures :(

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1339098117

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1339098117

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1339098117

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1339098117

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1339098117

you have Rota Slipstreams now, right?

I had them then too. I had used all-seasons on the Slipstreams then and 5yr old RS2s on the factory 14inch wheels. The factory wheels actually had the stickier tires at the time (which isn't saying much). The first pic really shows well how much body roll still exists with 550/350 springs and FM sways with only the old RS2s for grip. With the Hoosier slicks I will be hard on the bump stops I'm sure.

I haven't bought the pics from Homestead with the Hoosiers on it yet. They weren't great angles mostly and the proof pics are very small. I should buy them just to study the suspension travel, though.

out of curiosity, and if I'm prying, cut me off, but how much do they charge for said pics? I want to be able to prove to hoes that I go on a race track.

Typically they cost less than the price of a good hoe but at least as much as a bad one. $20-35 for the whole hi-res set depending on the photog and how many shots.

There were 22 in the Sebring set.

damn ok

most girls are OK with a few $9 drinks

*

most of the angles aren't accessible on foot (at least at Homestead)

Sebring June 23-24 with NASA. After that I'm unsure. I'm on a Chumpcar team for Sept. 22 if everything holds together.

Details?

Y U NO DRIFT? :jerkit:

I was asked by someone local who was building a team to campaign a 914 Porsche at the 14 hour Cumpcar race at Sebring. I knew him from the Florida Corvette Racing Club events and from the local car scene and he needed one more team member.

Because Miata.


Because suspension.


Because brakes.


Because faster.


Because college graduate.

Hahah cheers :)

:bowrofl:

because high school graduate more like

Surprise trackday!

I talked the owner of my company into letting me take three of my good customers up to Road Atlanta for a trackday on the company dime. I'll be dragging the Miata up there and we'll get them some rental cars, lol. It's June 29th (Friday) with Trackdaze. Come visit if you are unemployed or have the day off work.

I hope I don't break anything at Sebring on the 23-24th that can't be fixed by Wedneday night the 27th since we are going up Thursday morning.

more fun than golf

Are you going to post the excursion to Sunshine Dragstrip?

Wut? Huh? I dunno what you are talking about...

I broke an exhaust mani to turbo stud at Homestead and had to drill it out. Drill bit broke; took it to machine shop; they helicoiled it and resurfaced both faces; bought m8 inconel studs and installed them. After remounting my turbo Saturday and adding some more heat management, I added my Hawk Blues and bedded them in.

Saturday evening I wanted to take the car for a check ride so I called Troy to see if he wanted to go. After some insanely hot Thai food, we went riding across the bay and saw the lights on at the local eighth mile drag strip (10:30pm) and went by to check it out. I ended up making five passes on my five year old 195/60/14 street tires, no burnouts. Best was 9.36 at 79.xx mph with a 2.2 60foot. Pretty slack.

Aw man you should have hit me up. I live not too far from sunshine speedway. I totally would have come out. Probably wouldn't have been able to drag with you due to the fact that my clutch started slipping like a MOFO. BTW, I ordered the FM2 happy meal last night. You said you were available the weekend of the 7th right? I need to change that ---- out because I have to accelerate like a grandma for it to hold.

Get all of the seals too. Read the how to thread (I think by Samnavy) about clutch replacement.

Went to Sebring this weekend. Saturday was dry but for some sprinkles. Sunday was alternating heavy rain and light rain.

Here is video of the awesome rain session from Sunday. I broke it into two parts so you could see everything from the start. There were only six of us actually crazy enough to run in this session and I was a little late getting to the grid so the others were already out there. It was very slick in spots, grippy in others, and deep in several. The track doesn't drain like a crowned roadway does by design. You need fast hands to catch it when it tries to spin. I <3 Rain-X.

Wow I can't believe you tracked in that weather. The crowned streets were not draining so well on my side of the bay. ---- was crazy. I think I saw atleast 30 cars yesterday stalled out in random streets because they tried to go through the floods. Looks like you had fun though.

Jesus, a 2.5 minute pit-out? No wonder Forza didn't include pits for Sebring.

Lol, it's a wee bit quicker in the dry, but it is still 3.7 miles around it.

Second session Saturday morning - passed blue 240Z early on but eventually he started to catch back up so I pushed it until I went too far and locked up a wheel or two in a braking zone, so I released the brake and just went off track:


First session Saturday:

I bought a replacement oil pressure gauge kit. My sender and OPG that came out of my '93 parts car flipped out on the track Saturday. It fluttered spastically for about a lap and then suddenly went to zero !

There is still plenty of oil being pumped into the valvetrain but the sending unit diaphragm is probably toast. New ones are $135!

For quite a bit less than that I bought a new 52mm Prosport Premium Series gauge kit that has a new sending unit, stepper motor internals, warning w/audible alert and flashing lights. The gauge face rapidly flashes from white to red and back when you go below the limits you set.

Now where do I put it?

jesus, i watched the wet videos... you have some cojones...

You should have gotten one small enough to fit in the stock location, those always look good.

Sav will tell you to tape it directly in front of you, like, on your visor.

Meh, probably just stupid, lol.

I thought I would learn a lot about the car and the track doing it and I guess I did.

I would have gotten a smaller, 45mm gauge but it wouldn't have the warning feature. Frankly, the warning feature means you can put it somewhere other than your line of sight.

I am so tempted to get that Oil Pressure Sensor and gauge. Any clue if it will screw into the stock location? Also if it will work to input to MS?

IDK about the first part. IDK about the second part too.

I think the stock location is a British pipe thread and the sender stuff for prosport is typically NPT.

I have the stock location and my sandwich adapter to choose from. The sandwich plate has 1/8 NPT so hopefully everything will be fine. The stock '93 sender is already on an adapter tee to allow for the turbo oil feed so I could change adapters if necessary and make it work.

The BP engine uses a 1/8NPT threading for the sensor. I measured the stock one with a die set.

For your perusal, some track pictures from Homestead Miami Speedway:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1341428707

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1341428707

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1341428707

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1341428707

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1341428707

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1341428707

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1341428707

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1341428707

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1341428707

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1341428707

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1341428707

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1341428707

Well, time to reveal the postmortem of the turbo. The turbine shaft shows no real wear at all, but the bronze CHRA bushings are worn significantly. The turbine shaft has a bit of bluing between the two bushings which indicates some excess heat was present. The compressor wheel has a little wear due to contact with the compressor housing. The turbine has no marks demonstrating it made any contact with the turbine housing.

For some added excitement I found that the compressor nut was loose when I began the disassembly!

I am suspicious as to whether the amount of oil to the turbo was sufficient. The bluing is the cause of this concern. I have put the oil feed line into a jug and verified that oil is flowing though it when the engine is running but have no way of determining whether the volume is adequate.

I still question the possible role of the BOV but have no good way to single it out as a cause either. It is troubling to have no definitive answer.

I will purchase a rebuild kit for the turbo and will install it but meanwhile I am toying with the idea of installing the Chinese turbine housing onto the Garrett CHRA from the oil cooled 2860 I was originally going to use. This would allow me to use the downpipe and everything will be in the same location I already have. I test fitted it and it goes together pretty well. I guess it won't hurt to play around with it. It couldn't hurt to try it out.

I may look at increasing the oil hose's smallest diameter opening to let a little more oil flow in case that is the root problem.

No pics of the parts because I suck, lol.

*

I was going to use a garrett turbine wheel and housing on a china CHRA and compressor wheel, but I got lazy and just used all the china parts.

If everything fits, it fits.

Replacement Chinese 2870 installed with proper feed line and return line in time for my track day at Sebring this weekend.

I didn't wreck or break the car so I guess I won the track day. Although I tried to plow a field by turning in too late into turn 16.
Here's the evidence:

Installed Hard Dog door bars this weekend. They tie in to the lower front mounts of the Hard Dog roll bar. They are much less intrusive than I thought.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1351476343

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1351476343

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1351476343

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https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1351476343

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1351476343

Door bars stopped the hard top from squeaking so the must be doing something.

For those that have not followed along closely, the turbo failure was due to improper oil feed line materials. It dissolved the inside of the line.

My oil pump relief valve seems to be sticking open intermittently, reducing the oil pressure especially at low RPMs.

How low? I had/have that issue as well. there wasnt anything I could do at the time, So I have just let it be. I only had the issue at idle just like yourself.

I can see the pressure rise and fall when the relief opens and closes. Sometimes it just sticks and doesn't close when I come off the throttle. When stuck open it gets as low as 8-10psi at 1050 rpm (yes, my hot idle is set that high) which is too low. When the relief closes it idles at ~15-20psi. I may need to add some thicker oil for the next track day until I can pull the engine and swap the pump. I removed the oil filter sandwich plate in hopes that the pressure drop would lessen without the length of lines and the cooler. It will be cold in Atlanta for my trackday this coming weekend so I don't anticipate needing the extra cooling. The pressure achieves factory specs, which are listed as 45-56psi at 3000 RPM hot. It can achieve 130psi+ when cold and revved up a little.

Wow, Mine wasnt quite that bad. Although I have never seen cold pressures that high before on mine either.

Zero oil pressure on startup Wednesday. Ordered new Boundary pump but unable to finish replacement in time. I'm riding shotgun in a friend's truck up to Road Atlanta and will be renting something to drive. I'll hopefully have a nice time anyway.

When the gauge reads below about six lbs the engine starts to rattle as it runs. Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure it is actually getting no oil pressure.

It's the Road Atlanta curse... I swear. I'd probably be there drinking beers with ya if I didn't have a wedding to attend... gotta drink beer there instead :)

Well, I figured out what happened to my oil pump. Does anyone remember when my dipstick was cooked by radiant heat from being close to my manifold/turbo?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1358085735

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1358085735

Yeah, tiny plastic bits are light enough to be sucked into the pickup screen and partially clog it. Some were small enough to go through it and get trapped between the oil pump relief and its bore. This caused the relief to bind up and eventually seize in its bore. It took significant force to push the relief valve out of its bore, revealing a plastic piece flattened against the bore wall. So much fun.

There was no metal apparent from the oil pan tapping procedure in case anyone was wondering. I was very slow and careful when I did that, so I'm happy nothing from that process was involved. If it did, metal should tend to stay on the floor of the pan since it is heavier.

New Boundary Engineering street/strip pump assembly is now in place. Engine will be reinstalled once my Mazda Comp motor mounts arrive from Good-Win Racing.

OK, car is going to the dyno in the morning. Prepare for fairly average turbo Miata plots. I figured it would be nice to have some idea what the car was putting down at this point before continuing onward. I will datalog as well, so I'll hope to be able to correlate some data in a nice graph.

I have a spare short block on the floor in my garage that will be filled with forged goodies at some point.

I am going to make my official guess as to what the car will dyno.

214 WHP.

Now I am going to have to go back and re-read this thread to see what all is on the car. :D

Good luck on some clean runs tomorrow.

'96 stock 1.8, 130k miles, FM log manifold, MS1, chinese 2870, 3 inch exhaust turbo back, rx7 460cc injectors, ebay intercooler, GReddy EBC, overboost protection kicks in at ~10.5psi. Like I said, average Miata dyno numbers are expected. I expect 210 but am hopeful for 220whp.

Well, I went to get a baseline. I had a couple of issues with the test, but that is pretty standard. The first one was the car did well in a couple of run ups on the interstate on the way there but had an idle that was a couple hundred rpm higher than normal when I got there. I found a vacuum line off that was not secured when I reinstalled the engine. It helped bring down the idle a little but there is something else off that I can't locate. After a few minutes I gave up looking and pushed onward. We were in a hurry for an appointment shortly afterward. The operator made three pulls but the boost was low, probably because of a vacuum/boost leak. So I was compensating after each of the first two runs by turning the EBC up a couple of clicks. The third run was still a little lower pressure than I would have liked to see tested. But there will be other days.

As usual, the dyno operator did a less than stellar job of getting the full operating range in the pull. The factory tach is was reading high compared to the datalog. I found out after it was over that he only pulled to 6400 and stopped when it was still climbing upward?!?!

We ended up with a ~165kpa upper limit which is about 9.2 psi, which is sad because I had been able to adjust the EBC to bounce off of the 10.5psi boost cut on the way over.

Anyway, numbers -
204whp @ 6400 at 9.2psi
194wtq @ 4800

EDIT: Dynojet, sea level plus 20ft, 60*F

I datalogged the events and transferred the data from the dyno plot and the data from the log into an excel spreadsheet to better compare the info.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362275275
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362275275

I can not believe I did not notice the lack of a dip at the end of the graph. That old 1990s screen made it difficult to read. I do not recall seeing rpms on the screen either.

I will know what to look for next time.

So whats next?

At least in this thread for sure! Thanks buddy!


Mah spark map used for the dyno session:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362424326

Masterful!

After looking at your map and comparing it to other maps I have seen, it seems like most of those cells needs more timing. I suspect the low timing may be causing some of your excessive heat from your turbo.

I think you will see a pretty good improvement in power once you have that map sorted out.

Possibly. I have to be careful when looking at the maps of others because some of those guys have built motors with lower than stock compression ratios, B6 engines, or NB engines. All are not equal and I've almost copied the wrong guy a few times. I am cautious with my timing, though. I am sure of that.


Announcement: I have signed up with NASA-SE for Roebling Road Raceway, Savannah, GA, April 13-14. I have also signed up for NASA-FL at Homestead Miami Speedway, May 12-13. Plan to come out and run, or just visit awhile.

Will there be any changes to your car before the next outing?

One or both of those might work for me. Kind of crazy that they are almost the same distance away. Any advice for someone that's never run a NASA event before?

Have you run with anybody before? Who and what level/classing?