No Seriously. Watch it. Watch how needle moves in each gear. Pressure should rise with RPM then stabalize. In 5th pressure drops

 

I dunno, too much acceleration? :P

 

that's the way they are.

 

This. NA OPGs are all over the place, all the time.

 

Yeah and NB opgs are in one spot, all the time, and even more worthless

 

aftermarket oil pressure gauge would be nice. I could wire it into MS3 and set up some fail safe of sorts.

but frankly that's very low on my to-do list.

 

Haha. My stock OPG went to zero while driving. I noticed immediately and shut the motor down. Then I realized I would've heard my aftermarket gauge beeping if I had actually lost oil pressure. All is well. I still haven't popped the hood to check the pressure sender connection, and it happened two weeks ago.

 

Here:


First off yes, it's a pathetic video. But, especially in first gear, you can see the oil pressure gauge moving with the RPMs. From just over 30psi to just under 60, and that was only just over 5000 rpms.

 

it's when it freaks out and twitches all over the place is when you need to let off...cause that's knock.

 

I like your style.

 

So, time to step up to grown man brakes now?

 

***** you could have posted the FB pics. I'm on my phone and too last to do it.

But yeah, first session, braking at the end of the straight from 120 mph my corrado rotor sheared from the rotor hat. Think 1 piece rotor becoming 2 piece. It scratched my rim inner barrel a bit but superficial really. Since I had 2 sets of rotors (because carbotech magic transfer layer...) I put on ky spare rotor and did he remaining 3 sessions worry- free. Turbine wheel still attached, but theres always tomorrow! 4 more sesions!

Oh and I'm solo now. Yay.

 

Turbine wheel still attached to the shaft!

This is what happened to the Corrado brake rotor in the first session. I had my DD rotors so I just put then on (ignoring the magical unicorn Carbotech transfer layer bullshit) and drove the remaining 7 sessions problem-free.



Going to get TSE 11.75" kit and ducts. Leaning towards Hawk DTC-70 pads because they are a) cheap b) cheap c) don't require magical rotors.

I would also need a street pad. I'm probably going to get Porterfield R4S because I quite like them right now.

 

wtf! last time I did that with a rotor it was 10 years old and the rear caliper seized up on it.

 

happened on the main straight, braking into turn 1 from 120mph.

No other damage. I'm guessing it was just a defective casting. Braking into turn 1 was not the same after that. It took me until the next day to gain confidence to go into 6th on the straight and brake deep into the turn.

So yeah, if TSE kit buys me confidence, ---- it, I'll pay the price.

 

Oh yeah, the rotors were almost brand new Centric Corrado rotor. I only used them for 1 track day before and brake pad bedding.

 

id try to get my money back.



ill take the other for spare

 

They are like $25 new. I'd pay more to ship this one back. Why bother?

 

youre not a jewish russian i see.

 

only on saturdays.