Then make another adapter plate and use a T56.

Or skip the turbo

 

well looks like your in the same boat as not putting this motor in. You can kill miata trannys just as fast with a turbo BP. The Miata community needs to find a cure for the 6speed like the DSM and Honda guys did with their trannys, wether it be gear sets or just surface treatments. We could use one of these companies like 949,track speed,flying miata to spend time developing products to fix the 6 speed weakness at high hp levels.

 

If you are eating 6sp with a boosted 1.8 on track, going to 2.4 liters will not help much.
If you keep it N/A there will be much less problems, even if you make it a 350whp screamer since the torque values will be much less (max power at 9krpm, not 6).

Fixing the 6sp will only get you so far, even the Nismo gears will have problems with a 600whp dyno queen.

When there are 10+ boosted K24yatas running endurance the problems will be solved (using racing transmissions), but that is not the case, yet.

But if you keep the K24 stock, even the 5sp will be fine, keeping it simple.

 

my plans for the k24a2 are stock internals with airflow mods and kpro tune, then kraftwerks rotrex kit later on. Big linear power that should still be 6spd safe.

 

Lots of valid points, and I'll address a couple.

1) if you want a 500+whp Miata, this probably isn't a setup for you for (for now). If there is a demand for this, then we will explore other trans options and adapter plates (T56, S2000, etc).

2) the reason for using the stock Miata trans is to keep it simple, cheaper, more OEM, retain the full OEM drivetrain. As long as we already had to make an adapter plate, the trans that came in the car was the obvious choice.

3) the initial intention of this kit is for N/A K series setups. The beauty of this swap is to be able to make 230-250whp out of a $1000 junkyard longblock. As torquey as the K24 is, you will still make less wtq than a boosted BP setup, and with a more linear power band.

I plan on running all summer on my original 5 speed trans for testing, and final torque should be around 185-190. I suspect it will be fine, considering I'll just be shifting between 3, 4, and 5 on track, at 8000 rpm.

 

People here would rather see a reverse graph, meaning all the power and torque at 3000 and have it fall off past that.

 

The real solution is the Quaiffe 5 speed gear set. Sadly, that's far more $$ than even a T56. And I don't see US distributors for it anymore.

The most awesomest possibility would be OBX making a similar gear set to Quaiffes for about 1500-2000 bucks. For one thing that would slowly flood the market with 6 speeds from BP turbo guys. But a whole gear set is a tall order and I don't think that's going to happen.

Honestly, if I were going for a reliable track rat that could handle endurance racing somewhere like Miller with lots of long stretches that reward brute power: This setup with an AZ6 out of an S2000. Adapt the PPF (it's been done), figure the VSS electronically if you care. I ran for years without a speedometer on my street car and got no tickets. Use the existing trans adaptor parts for K swaps into S2000s. Use the sweet K member and oiling deal and header from this setup. Do some low boost high efficiency setup that wont create a ton of heat, maybe Rotrex. Go blast about with 500 WHP, less weight than a the V8 guys and less heat than the BP guys.

But I don't plan on building said demon. I want to build a nice fun street car, and I'll run the 5 speed until it blows up (if ever) then throw in the 6. With a K24 a healthy 6 speed is probably good to 400WHP and low 300sTQ. At that point you will be too busy feeding the car tires and brake pads to worry about much else anyway.

 

There's that, and then there are guys like me. I just want to drop a stock TSX motor in the damn car and have a fun autox/street car. I'd shamelessly run the stock TSX ECU and not bother adding power. I have other vehicles available for boosted fury.

 

Stock Honda K-series ECUs are a pain to use. You need all of the anti-theft stuff with them.

You could use some of the JDM ECUs that don't have anti-theft, but they can be hard to come by.

 

You can get a eliminator for the imobilzer from ktuned

 

They just posted pictures of the final prototypes for the oil system.

 

I've been wondering for awhile now, how will you be able to drain the oil from both sides of that pan? Are there two drain plugs? How will the pickup get oil from both sides? I take it there is something I'm missing here?

 

Yes, there are two drain plugs.

The pickup obviously only gets oil from the larger back section which is baffled. However, with the pan full, oil covers the "tunnel." Oil is constantly being displaced between the two sections as it get poured back down through the engine and pumped back up.

We have tested this design thoroughly and it works just like stock. It's also not the first oil pan with this shape.

 

On one hand, I want to congratulate you for doing an excellent job and really proving to everyone that this isn't a half-assed solution.

On the other hand, I want to yell your name in vain because my Amex is wiggling out of my wallet.

 

I hope you make and sell these kits successful. Because in a few years when I finish my house and garage, this is next on the list.

 

Thank you for your kind words.

So what you're saying is that I should add you to the group buy list

 

Can you get us some pictures of the exhaust routing under the car?

 

Where is this list?

 

+1.

 

I'll get a pictures next time its on a lift. We will be finalizing the exhaust setup soon.

Just send me an email to sales@kmiata.com with your info and you'll be notified once its available.