Ok, so the history is here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24355

The 1994 MX-5 1.8 will be rebuild as a daily-drivable track-capable car. I want reliability more than anything. So cooling and management are of great concern. Power goal is around 220rwhp.

Draft specs:
- 1.8 w/Supertech internals, balanced crank, flywheel, clutch
- New OEM HLA's
- BEGI MF w/ceramic coating
- BEGI SS SG downpipe, OEM cat
- GT2554R (rebuild) w/ceramic coating
- BEGI cool air box and turbo heat shield
- BEGI IC #2 w/bypass valve and water bypass
- BEGI racer coolant re-route
- BEGI radiator cover
- RC 550cc injectors w/wire clips
- SS Oil/coolant lines
- Mishimoto radiator + 2x12" fans (parallel)
- MSPNP +IAT +LC1 +GMBoostControl +KnocksenseMS
- ACT HD clutch kit w/street disc
- MazdaSpeed motor mounts
- OEM modified dual feed rail
- Turbo-capable PCV valve

This I have ready to install:
- Hard Dog Ace Bar
- Carbing shock tower brace
- Spoiler lip

This stuff is already on the car:
- GC 375F/250R w/Bilstein B6
- FCM 46mm bump stops
- EBC green stuff w/SS brake lines
- 15x8 6UL +36 silver Toyo T1R 195/50R15 (R888 next)
- Racing Beat 94-97 Tubular Front 1.125"
- Racing Beat 90-05 Rear 0,625"
- OEM hard top

Wish list:
- Oil cooler
- Race cat w/3" cat back
- LSD
- EGT probe

I will post pictures/updates are we go along. The current state is that the old engine is out for the rebuild.

Comments welcome especially w/regards to track capability!

This is what the car sort-of looks like currently.

 

No comments, not even bashing?

 

I like your wheels

 

I guess the 129 replies to the other thread isn't enough?

Looking good so far.

 

Ok, I will take some pics of the remains tomorrow when I visit the shop

 

If it's going to be a track capable car you need to dump the EBC pads, and move the oil cooler to installed list rather than on the wish list.

 

we basically have the same car...lol.

I've been making myself sick thinking about the money I spent on my nickel 6UL's, then I see a picture of them on a car and all the pain goes away. lol

 

Bummer, de GT2554R is dead, but ball bearing turbo's do not repair. They have to be exchanged, but Garrett only has an exchange program in de US. Will contact BEGI to work something out hopefully...

Pictures of the internals:

 

Mishimoto rad received w/12" fans:

 

looks like detonation...how did the motor die?

 

Hard Dog Ace - Not a good bar for the track. Maybe it passes tech were you are at but a lot of clubs wouldn't pass it here. You'll want to ask around before you install it. You don't have to have SCCA approved bars but the ace sits lower and further back than just anything else out there.

ABSOLUTELY you have to get something better than the Green Stuffs. I destroyed my Red Stuffs in one track day. They worked great pre-FI but stopping from 90mph is very different than 120! If you like EBC try the Yellows. Not many folks around here like EBC though.

I did the same install with the fans and rad. Had trouble with cooling. While you have it out, build a shroud. You'll want to draw air from the whole rad, not just the little circle where the fans are. Easy project while you have the rad out. Sheet metal, abs, lexan, etc. Whatever you've got lying around to use.

 

The shop also thinks detonation. Either AFPR was seriously misadjusted (I doubt it since the needle was almost in) or bad or the engine on the verge of collapse combined with high intake temps. I would recommend against running without a Wideband O2 at > 0 psi.

 

I thought about this and I will have a racing seat mounted lower than now. Having the bar further back also saves my head from running into it on the street (with no helmet). It for sure is a trade off that I hope will never expose itself.

Most aftermarket shops do EBC around here, but I will be replacing them when they wear out (soon I suppose). What are you running discs/pads?

Do you have pictures of your shroud? I suppose a shroud does wonders when the fans come on (stop and go) but doesn't it hinder when they are now? That is, restrict air flow through the rad?

Thanks!

 

maybe I meant to say "looks lean"

 

Well, a turbo center section is about the same as a new turbo ($90 between them), so now that I had the chance to get a different turbo, I've decided to get the GT2560R. Still with my ~ 220 rwhp power goal in mind, but better efficiency and more head room. I am not too worried about boost threshold with this one, but think the GT2860R would be too slow for me.

 

you'll like the 2560

 

Almost everything is ordered now. I am getting new HLA's, Supertech pistons 83.5mm 8.6:1, Belfab H-beam rods, full gasket set, ARP studs, new bearings.

Waiting for the new GT2560R to get ready. Hopefully most stuff will ship by the end of this week so they can get started next week.

MSPNP arrived this week with all the goodies. Probably won't be able to test it until the car is in some state with an engine...

 

Most of the ECU stuff is in now: MSPNP, IAT, KnocksenseMS (not in picture), GM Boost Control Solenoid, new plugs, air filter, spark plug cables, LC-1 w/Gauge.

Also discussed the install: they are going to balance the crank, flywheel (and shave the ring off) and the clutch when it gets there. Waiting now for the engine parts (pistons, rods) to come in so they can start with the work. Should take about three weeks including dyno runs.

Also talked about oil cooler which they highly recommend. Going with the Mocal sandwich plate w/thermostat. They are also going to source VDO gauges (vac/boost and oil temp).

Also talked about the knock sensor which they will attach directly to the cylinder wall instead of a motor mount. The oil temp sender will be drilled in the pan as the safest location.

See pictures:

 

I've also ordered the steering wheel:


More angles:


It's a 35cm 90mm (3.5") deep dish suede wheel.

 

195's on a 8 inch wheel FTL