i did because that's where I was sitting at the time and using like 4FEET of extenstion was easier than moving.

gears still whine in 1st and 2nd, but that's normal.

There's less chatter noise in the trans in general. The gears so fucking butter smooth and easy to shift now. I can put it in first while still at speed, and I dont have to try 7 times to get into reverse. Each time I hit reverse now, I have to double check I didn't go to 4th because it hits it so easy.

I really like this BG syncroshift II.

New alignment is much better in the corners as well.

And I'm very happy how nice/easy this thing is to drive now.




I'd say this job is easier than a miata. It took us a while, cause noob, but it went very well considering it was the first time wrenching on this car.

another pro tip: I grinded down the flange on trans bolt that sits behind the turbo outlet flange because we forgot to put it on before mating the trans to the block. That was easier than pull the trans back off just to get the bolt in place.

also: marking the camber bolt, pulling the two bolts and popping off the ABS sensor might be easier than popping the ball-joint. My drive side would NOT break free and after we decided to just go ahead and do it that way [after wasting too much time trying to separate], I was able to pull out the axle within a few minutes.

I was already just going to max my camber bolts anyway so it didn't really matter and marking the camber position beofre removing takes 2 seconds.

:bowrofl:

now my visor failed. it's very flaccid.

matches your........

pretty much.

Anyone have a spare stock flywheel sitting unused in a shed or garage that'll fit an 04 EJ205? I believe any (non STI) WRX from 02 to 05 would fit, plus some random 2.5 stuff like the FXT "should" interchange, but I'd prefer to go with known fitment before I get crazy. Useable and cheap are the watchwords of the day here. ;)

I'm swapping my clutch soon and I want a spare flywheel that I can get surfaced and ready to go so there are no surprises once I get it all apart. Because DD.

I've got a spare push clutch flywheel, that doesnt help you though. At least for my style flywheel the F1 chromoloy one has been damn good so far, considering it was like just about $30 more expensive than getting my stock flywheel properly resurfaced and I wouldnt have had to wait a week with the car apart for it to be machined.

The radiator on my 05 Saabaaruu decided it no longer wanted to be my coolant slave and threw up all over the fans which sprayed coolant on the engine and belts. The awesome part was sitting at a light squealing with smoke pouring from the hood scoop with people looking at me 'like OMG'.

Mishimoto Radiator ordered and now in. Fits well, holds coolant and is shiny.

Prolly need to do Clutch at some point...don't wanna but prolly have to.

IMO the clutch really isnt all that bad. The absolute worst part is seperating the engine from the tranny because it will be rusted together. Even still, you can beat the book time without a lift with the pull the engine but leave the tranny in method.

I've read about it both ways and they both seem terrible.

But california car? No rust?

No its really not that bad.

Remove battery and air pump
Drain coolant
remove radiator
undo like 4 big electrical connectors and the alternator wire
remove acc belts, unbolt ps and ac pump from motor and set off the sides of engine bay
remove downpipe and disconnect air intake at turbo inlet
remove tmic or remove fmic hoses
disconnect fuel lines
attache hoist
unbolt engine mounts from subframe (cursing happened here because of rust and whiteline sway bar clearance) and pitch stop mount
for pull clutch only, disconnect clutch fork
undo tranny bolts
lift the engine mount studs out of subframe
hammer wedge shaped shit into the crack between the tranny and engine for a few hours until the two pop apart
pull engine out
change your mounts, spark plugs, timing belt, oil pickup, clutch, flywheel, and anything else you can think of while is out
polish your clutch fork pivot
anti sieze the shit out of the tranny to engine mounting surface so if you have to do it again it'll only take like 2 hours
install is reverse of removal

DO NOT LISTEN to this silly method /\
The only time it makes sense to pull engine is if you want to do literally all the maint and inspect/replace every consumable.

I just did the clutch in his car like last year, so it will come apart easily because I lubed the pins like a boss.
He's only replacing clutch cause it's too hardcore, not cause it's toast.
Gordon when you're ready to do it I will walk you through it, just like I did Braineak, and hundreds of others.

Lift isn't a deal breaker, but the job will be 200% easier with one. And really, it's not that hard.

Pulling the tranny is such a pita though. Got to realign the front end and put new tranny fluid in. Pulling the drivesahft is also a pita. You also dont get the option to change the oil pump pickup when you pull the tranny, you're also much more likely to tear an axle boot and have to at least replace the boot.

Yeah, that seemed really fucking excessive.
:giggle:
FOR THE RECORD its because my wife can't handle it. She just does not have the experience with a manual transmission to get it moving without either stalling it or starting an asbestos fire in the bell housing. She learned to drive stick in a 70's Ford truck with a big torquey V8 and a 9,000lbs flywheel so "launching" the Subaru is more than she can handle right now. Her confidence is completely shot to the point where now she does not even want to drive the Miata, and its the easiest thing in the world to drive with the FM1 clutch. So back to stock and we'll give it another try.
:love: Thanks man, I probably won't need much but we'll see.
Good thing Gesso has a lift! :party:

Wait you've already had it apart? Engine method is 3 hours tops when you dont have to battle rust. Book time for pulling the tranny on a lift is 8 hours to do the clutch.

yeah totally bro.
engine out is 30 minutes
trans out is 30 days
#Leafypost

Woohoo found some BBS's in very good shape. Price was right with tires.

Now needs lowering.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1430161094

My bugeye has developed a nasty clutch shudder when not fully warmed up. It takes several miles before it returns to normal. I have tried changing the revs higher/lower and changed the amount of time slipping. Nothing works. I just have to wait till it gets nice and toasty till i can drive it like i am not just learning to drive a stick. When i say shudder, i mean full on shit is shaking like ALLTHESHAKES.

Tonight i am going to print up signs and try jumping on the hood/roof with my hands up. I will also try ventilating the windows with a traffic cone to see if that helps.

yes the best way to shred frustration is to act like a looter