They rolled her out on a stretcher

I'll post if I find out what it was all about.

I would of done the same!

 

Capitalism: Guy buys $400 suspension, attempts to immediately resell for $750.

https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...oft-top-87729/

ClubRoadster.net

 

At least he didn't reuse the original pic.

 

Yup. If the seller here had been willing to ship, I'd have snapped them up too. And I would have taken many pretty photos.

 

Anyone have fine spray painting skillz & advice?

Contemplating painting my red MSM pieces on my door rather than sourcing new entire black doors.

I do understand they need to be cleaned first, and prep prep prep

As for the finish of black, Satin? Flat? Matte? I want to get it as close as possible to what a black door would look like.

 

Don't forget prep.

Plastic? Or outer door.

 

use one of those cheap trigger handles, and make lots of light passes.
Never stop moving the can while you spray, and once you think it's finally coated and completely dry, wait another hour before you touch it.

 

Spray a light coat, wait 5 minutes for it to tack up, spray a second light coat, wait again 5 minutes for it to tack up, spray a heavy coat, drop the mic - er - I mean drop the devilbiss.

Your first two light coats are there primarily to absorb the reducer from the heavy top coat. If they dry all the way, then those coats will not absorb any reducer. The absorbtion of the reducer isn't permanent; as the heavy top coat dries, the reducer will again travel between coats, this time from the first and second coat to the top coat before evaporating. If you spray the heavy coat without first spraying the light coats, you will have too thick of a layer with too much reducer which will result, at best, in orange peel, and at worst, in runs.

Regardless, if you spray too much in any one coat, you will get runs - if any part of the panel runs, then you've pretty much got to make the whole panel run, and it will still look like ****. Don't ever run your paint gun dry, or, again, the final product will look like ****.

If you're matching OEM, then flat, matte, and satin will all look like ****. Shoot automotive paint, it's almost all gloss. Also, automotive paint will stand up to the abuse of road debris hitting it at 90mph; krylon is made to stand up to the abuse of a piece of clothing occasionally brushing across it. If your parts come out more glossy than the rest of the car, then get out your polish and buffer and start going to work.

 

Dis,



Thanks guise



Side rant, found out my low life roommate is hocking loogies on my car

 

I spraypainted my bicycle helmet with a raddlecan a few months ago. A few light coats, it looked great. A 3 days later (much past the 'additional coat within 60 minutes or after 24 hours'), when removing the masking tape I noticed a few light spots, so hit it with another light coat. Fucked everythign up, it all peeled up or got wrinkley. I had to sand it all down and start over.

 

Hmmmmmm.... maybe I should plasti-dip them to see if I like it first

https://www.dipyourcar.com/collectio...asti-dip-black

 

Anyone need something like this?



Solid State Cooling Systems: Thermocube 200, 300, 400 W Air Cooled, Liquid Recirculating Chiller for Lab, Laser, Semiconductor

It's on ebay, but $500 shipped to MT.net members only.

 

Would it be possible to loop it into a PC water cooling system?

 

I would think it would actually be perfect for something like that.

 

I almost bought one of those(for work). I think it was you who recommended it.

Edit* RO H2O
You running DI through it?

 

I really want that, but have absolutely no justification for something like that.

 

Really tempting but I'm strapped for monies

What sort of temps can this thing achieve? (reading site specs naow..)

Compared to liquid nitrogen extreme over clockers

 

The condensation in that image makes my sphincter clench.

 

I don't think they get far below freezing depending on the unit.

Edited because I'm an idiot.

 

I'm wondering how many thermal cycles it takes before traces start to break either within the die or on the board.


I also wonder if the money spent on "extreme" overclocking wouldn't be better used by just buying higher-performing hardware in the first place. Or is this more of a competitive thing? "Look how many Pinterist points I can score by doing something even more outrageous than this other guy!" From what little I've seen, these folks have even moved on to liquid helium, which is even colder. It boils at -269°C, as compared to -195°C for nitrogen.