Yep, that was me. Yes, I run RO through it.

It's a cool thing blessed by Monk.
What other justification do you need?

Not exactly sure, I make it stay at 37.5C 24/7.
It isn't extremely stressed, but it maintains that temperature without wavering.
Also accepting car parts

 

When I was younger I was into overclocking cpu's and gpu's. Sort of fell out of it all when I got into miata's. I never got further then doing a few water cooling setups. The people who are using liquid nitrogen for cooling are generally using the top of the line cpu's and overclocking to 6ghz or 7ghz. They do it sort of competitively. Its more can we get the comp running at 7.432ghz and run prime95 for a few minutes.

 

So, it's like building an extremely expensive, high-HP engine with the intention of just running it on a dyno, rather than ever putting it into a car.

Check.


I mean, I used to overclock CPUs as well. But it was because I was a broke-*** college student who couldn't afford to buy a '486 that was actually rated to run at 66 Mhz, so we just took the 33 or 40 Mhz version and stuck a fan on it (which was a novel idea at the time.)

These days, CPUs faster than god basically come free in boxes of corn-flakes.

 

I remember drawing a trace on the top of a first gen AMD Athlon with a graphite pencil in order to overclock it. Funny to think about the time spent tweaking settings and checking temps and running benchmarks.

I just rebuilt our Lenovo desktop (aside: Lenovo is now junk) with a new motherboard, SSD, and case. The top three priorities were cost, stability, and noise control.

 

LOL - I too used to overclock, very mildly. It has made me grateful of my marginally slower but ~100% reliable computers that I have today.

With age, reliability > pure maxed graphics FPS performance...

But then, I generally have stopped playing demanding games also, so there's that.

 

I remember reading about that on Usenet many years ago, but the only AMD processor I ever had was an Am5x86. Basically, a K5-like core in a package that was pin-compatible with a 486DX. If memory serves, I put that processor onto the same board which previously held the aforementioned overclocked 486DX/33, which I ran until I could afford a whole new motherboard & RAM to support an actual Pentium.

Stuff like this reminds me of the stunts we used to pull with the early Amiga 500s, like doubling the RAM (from 512k to 1M) by literally soldering 16 additional ICs on top of the existing ones, but with one of the address legs lifted on each chip, daisy-chained together, and then connected to a pin on the Fat Agnus chip.

Aaah, youth.




^ This.

Overclocking used to be something you did because you were broke and couldn't afford new hardware, kind of like cobbling together a DIY turbo system for an NA.

This is how you really cool an overclocked processor:

 

That's 'cray


I forgot all about those pretty LEDs doing patterns. It would be neat to recreate that for a home pc or server



https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blinkenlights
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Connection_Machine



This guy put a panel in his house, very cool.

http://www.housedillon.com/?p=1272

 

I am in Barcelona as we speak, invited by Mazda to drive the new ND.
It will be a 90 minute drive on Spanish countryside to a winery.
Maybe I should post this on m.net.

 

The dealer here in town has one black sport, won't let anyone drive it.

We even pulled up with a BRZ on loan from another dealer, had the dealer tag still. Nope, no drives without lots of fuckery, so my friend bought the BRZ without even driving a miata.

Oh well. Better suited for him anyway. I still wanted to drive it though...

 

Ha. We have 4 in stock and test drives are easy peasy.

 

Lol, is it tough driving it with a bad knee?

 

Anecdoteally related:

For the past three weeks, I've been walking to work rather than cycling. It's 2.3 miles (3.7 km) each way on the shortest route, a little over 3 miles (4.8 km) if I deviate for the sake of scenery. Yes, my feet and knees are killing me. But I can already feel a huge improvement in my power and stamina, and this does even more for me in terms of energy throughout the day than casual cycling ever did.

(It wasn't until I did that math that I realized I'm just shy of walking a 10k 5-6 times per week. I shall alter my route to make it official.)

The direct route takes me past the United Nations Headquarters and General Assembly Hall*, on the east side of 1st Ave around 48th - 42nd streets. This area is surrounded by the various embassies and missions of all sorts of different countries.

One of the more prominent, which faces out onto 1st Ave just across the block from the US Department of State, is the Turkish Center and the Permanent Mission of Turkey to the United Nations.



I think of you, Godless Commie, every time I walk past it.



* = The ground occupied by the UN is technically extraterritorial (it is an international territory, separate from the United States.) What I haven't been able to find out is precisely how far from the buildings themselves this territory extends, and whether it extends at all past the rather serious-looking fence which surrounds the complex. I'd like to be able to be an international traveler every day as a side-effect of my regular commute to work. At the very least, as the second floor of the Turkish Center has a slight overhang over the sidewalk, I believe that, from a purely technical standpoint, I enter and exit Turkey once each morning. (Embassies are considered to occupy the territory of the nation which they represent, regardless of their geographic location.)

 

I don't know **** about eelectronix.

My dental chair already has a recline via a "momentary on/off/momentary on" rocker footswitch. I'd prefer to add a momentary handswitch to also control the recline. Is it as simple as adding an additional set of wires (picture #2) out of this red thing I circled in picture #1?

Do I need diodes or any other thing so I don't blow this chair motor up?

 

Probably yes(assuming your new switch is rated for enough current), but more info is needed before I would go about hooking things up based on the advice of Internet weirdos.

Can you provide us the brand/model of the chair? Do you have the ability/tools to tell us what voltage is coming in on the power in lines (or do those lines plug directly in to the wall or to another box)?

 

It's made by Dome and plugs into a power outlet. Hopefully there is more info in this attachment.

 

Should work fine, the switch needs to be rated the same as the fuse or higher. 5A would be fine. All the switch is doing is applying power to one of two leads on the motor. Don't accidentally apply power to opposite directions on both switches at the same time, the fuse will probably pop.

 

Is there some sort of protective circuit that will prevent it from shorting if both buttons were to be pressed in opposite directions?

 

You'd need to use something like a DP3T switch (eg: NKK 2046) with the external links removed and the center poles re-wired to interrupt the hot-leg feed to the footswitch (terminal 3), with one of the outer poles wired in parallel across it.

 

So my boss has finally been forced to fire (with input from pretty much everyone) one of my coworkers(who is still on his probationary period and has cost the company at least 30k already). My boss said that since he is firing him he will be putting his two weeks in.
I can not understand this logic whatsoever.

Yay for going back on 12 hour days!

 

I marked up your schematic, based on the assumption that we're using an NKK model M2046 switch: M2046SS1W01 NKK Switches | Switches | DigiKey

Cut the supply wire between the fuse and the existing switch as shown:





And then wire in the new switch as shown:





In this design, power must flow through the new switch (from point A to point B) in order to reach the existing switch, and it can do so only when the new switch is in the center position. Thus, the two switches cannot both be closed at the same time.