I'm guessing most of the gains up top are from the VVT and not the IM.

 

BTW how did you tune VVT? On the dyno or on the street by watching O2?

 

Exact opposite. It's a combination of the two for sure, but the car only made ~260 on the stock IM with VVT at full retard. I'd say it's maybe 15% VVT and 85% intake manifold. I expected most of the power gains from VVT to come in the low-midrange and I was correct.

Here's the chart from the first time I tuned the motor - the purple curve is my '99 motor, the blue curve is the 2002 motor with VVT unplugged and a little less boost (12psi vs 14psi)



I have it set at full retard from 5000rpm up. Full advance at 3000rpm, smooth changeover from 3k to 5k. As far as tuning it, I stole y8s' curve numbers, plugged them in, and did not make any changes to them. I ran through my fuel map from 2500rpm to 4500rpm, adjusted the AFRs, and that's the result I got. I'm sure with some tweaking on the actual VVT targets there are more gains to be had but that's going to be a long, expensive dyno session.

 

100 octane.

 

By any chance do you have your newest graphs with both HP and TQ on the same graph with VVT enabled that you could post?

 

I just emailed Rick at Synergy, once I have the files I will post one chart with everything on it.

 

did you end up with the Victor or Performer X manifold? Either way I'm really glad it worked out well.

 

It's a Blox B18 manifold, very similar to the Skunk2 piece.

 

ohhhh, okay, even better. the cheap the ITR/skunk2 rip off manifold. nice dawg!

 

I just wish it was cheaper. Between the welding fab and resurfacing, I have over $400 into it. :(

 

Get it on the track and that will leave your mind

 

not a bad price price for the gains though. especially considering there isn't much OTS available.

 

You can fine tune VVT numbers on the street with the wideband.

Make a change and if it goes leaner, it means VE went up.

 

So because you did the run in a gear over 4th you divide the torque by the rear gear ratio to get true torque...? It's not making sense, but then again, I guess it doesn't matter.
What would you do to the numbers to get the accurate torque if you did a run in 3rd?

 

5th gear is 1:1 in the 6-speed. If I did a run in 3rd, ratio is like ~1.6 IIRC, you would divide by whatever 3.909x1.6 is.

Jason, the car is really flashy and doing WOT pulls on the street is begging to get pulled over. I think I've driven it about 10-20 miles in the last year on the road.

 

Sav, did you just have to cut the Blox flange off and weld the Miata flange on, was the spacing dead on or did you have to shorten/lengthen the runners?
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

 

I cut the Blox flange on, cut the Miata flange, and they were close. I was then an idiot and cut too much off the B18 manifold, trying to get rid of all of the fuel injector bosses, and ended up having to do a lot of port work to line everything up again. The spacing isn't dead nuts, but it's damn close.

 

So how long are the runners now? Seems like you got it perfect according to your dyno.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

 

I would be very suprised if this mani didn't help n/a motors' topend too.

 

Am I missing something in this build?

Sav’s car according to that thread: 2871 with peak hp at 294 and peak torque at 248 at 14 psi. He’s also running on 100 octane fuel.

Comparison - Paul’s Machine: 300 peak hp/ 242 torque at 14.5 psi on a 2560 and on pump 93 octane gas.

Sav’s got a 99 bottom end with the 02 head with vvt working and the new honda IM. Paul’s got a whole 99 engine with the begi IM.

Shouldn’t Sav be making MORE power with the larger turbo?