I can throw a set onto my car and let savington take it to town. He is local to me.

I have M10x1.5 threads in my mani.

 

My ETD shorty doesn't allow me to use nuts and bolts, The collector does not have clearance on the back side. Do you not have an option I can use?

 

I'll have to wait for more quotes. I have 2 quotes outstanding on the true metric hardware, and studs.

For those of you who think I'm making money on this, not a chance. I'll be lucky to make 10$ a set after all the shipping is done, and if everyone pays by check. These things make ARP=Junk.

 

How are cast manifold customers doing a bolt/nut combo?

Get a set to thesnowboarder and we will double-penetrate his car for a day and see if the **** holds up.

 

+1

The FM manifold has no provision for a nut/bolt assembly. But if you get metric studs....

 

For a non track car, standard hardware should be fine. I am pretty sure there is not a difference in supplied hardware between the cast mani and S4 manifold.

 

As far as I know, nope.

Also, an update on my setup is in order. So basically tracked my car at Horse Thief Mile at Willow Springs on Aug. 2nd. Ran all day, EGTs (in the downpipe) were reading no higher than 1100*F all day (which I assume is 1400-1500*F at the turbo manifold) despite the 95*F ambient temps and hard pulls up and down the tight and steep elevation portions of the track. Since then, RoadsterTuner and I checked all hardware and the turbo brace he made; it's still all tight and snug and no leaks.

Now for the real challenge: Auto Club Speedway this weekend. I'll update afterwards and I'll also be there with Savington to ogle at his V-band setup in-person.

 

egt's post turbo mean nothing. Good luck though.

 

So, srsly, when might you be able to get metric versions of these ubersoldat studs/bolts/nuts/whatever? I'm taking my turbo/mani off to resurface a warped turbine side flange, and I sure as **** would love to put the studs and nuts on at the same time so I don't have to do it again. The cost is not a problem.... I just need them in my hand.

 

I am still going to have to get the material, and have it rolled. The standard fasteners are off the shelf. Not going to take as long as the cops, but it could be a minute for uber metric hardware.

 

Stupid question possibly, but why not just a bolt through the turbo and into the manifold? That's how my turbo is attached. Granted, assembling the turbo onto the manifold is more than a slight pain in the *** this way, but it certainly works. And if you only have to do it once...

 

I was under the impression that a bolt into the abyss was less favorable than a stud/nut combo.

 

Not with the hardware I have. It really doesn't matter what its threaded into. Its true uber. If you guys could rethread your current manifolds for standard bolts you would be set. I could see the kits going for even cheaper.

 

I mean, there is room to thread larger. Is there room for the head of a larger bolt? Thats a different question. What std thread would be just larger than m10x1.5? Its hard enough as it is to fit the m10 head. I don't think I can fit much larger. I'm willing to grind away though.

 

The M10 guys would have to goto a 3/4in hex head.... Thats .081 larger on the diameter(So about a 1/16)

The M8 guys would have togoto a 9/16 head Which would obviously fit.

 

I think I could make 1/16" larger fit. I will go buy a bolt from lowes tomorrow and at least see if it fits. Are the head sizes of std harware fairly .... std across different manufacturers. As far as reg harware at stores are concerned?

 

In my experience there is some variation in terms of head size vs. thread. In an M10x1.25, an 8.8 bolt might have a 13mm head, vs a 17mm head for a 10.9 bolt. For some reason, I seem to recall coming across 16mm heads as well somewhere, though I can't place it. And then of course you've got shouldered hardware, which is a whole other story.

This thread is of great interest to me, as I'm on the verge of purchasing a manifold for Jessica, but want to be sure that this fancy new hardware lives up to its billing.

 

I gotta think that something is going to give. Torque these uber fasteners up and will be pulling threads out of the manifold or cracking turbos? Maybe a combo of the uber fastener torqued fairly low and then safety wired?

 

Refresh my memory here, did we poo-poo the Belleville washer idea? Seems like those might give you the fudge factor necessary, assuming they retain their elastic properties at the heat level we're looking at.

 

1) I only had to do my current set up once. As someone who's changed out at MINIMUM 20 broken studs, retapped, changed washers, bolts, material etc etc and etc.... For "very spirited street use" (I don't pretend to have track experience) you can get what I got from McMaster (elsewhere in thread, with part numbers and costs) and I'm sure you will be fine. I used to change studs as often as once a week and as rarely as once every two months. Now I've had the same set for.... easily a year.
1.5)The McMaster solution isn't super cheap either. Travis' set up won't cost you much more.
2) Not even close. I've looked at this at length. It is SO incredibly tight on these GT28s... It really just cannot be done. Wish it could.


I had to do lots of grinding. Not to clear the head (mostly) but to clear any wrench I could get onto it.

The reason this works is not by being super strong, it's because it already gives where it needs to. Read the past 5-10 pages.