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Old Apr 29, 2017 | 05:45 PM
  #9221  
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Originally Posted by boileralum
I've got Crank Pulley bolt as #1 priority on my restart list (which I hope to be tonight so I can beat you )
Is this a race now in build threads? Can I play? I've just got to make IC piping, weld up a custom intercooler, and figure out why MS still doesnt like my cam trigger pattern (or just give in an start it non-sequential).
Old Apr 29, 2017 | 06:51 PM
  #9222  
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Long block is assembled. Need to go buy coolant and a new oil drain plug. Then drop it in and go.
Old Apr 29, 2017 | 06:54 PM
  #9223  
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much excite
Old Apr 29, 2017 | 07:23 PM
  #9224  
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Does anyone know the torque spec for the EFR compressor housing v-band?
Old Apr 29, 2017 | 08:02 PM
  #9225  
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Aluminum or iron bearing housing?

Here are the specs from the tech manual, but IIRC the aluminum bearing housing has a slightly lower number. I read this but can't find the source.


Old Apr 29, 2017 | 08:08 PM
  #9226  
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
Aluminum or iron bearing housing?
Shouldn't matter. Compressor housing not turbine housing
Old Apr 29, 2017 | 08:09 PM
  #9227  
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misinformation removed

Last edited by psyber_0ptix; Apr 29, 2017 at 08:20 PM.
Old Apr 29, 2017 | 08:15 PM
  #9228  
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Could be. But a v-band applies pressure​ differently.
Old Apr 29, 2017 | 08:15 PM
  #9229  
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  • The turbo can be re-oriented by loosening the turbine clamp plate bolts (without removing them) and swiveling them out of the way. If the turbo is equipped with a wastegate, the actuator bracket will need to be moved in conjunction with the turbine housing rotation. Changing the orientation of the compressor cover can be done by loosening the v-band. Do not over-torque the clamp plate bolts; only 15ft-lbs is needed. This is especially critical if your EFR turbo is equipped with an aluminum bearing housing.












https://www.full-race.com/articles/e...uidelines.html



Disregard, I was in fact thinking of turbine housing bolts. Table above should still be valid as you eluded for the compressor housing clamp.


Last edited by psyber_0ptix; Apr 29, 2017 at 08:54 PM.
Old Apr 29, 2017 | 08:39 PM
  #9230  
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I never torqued mine down. about one half ugah-douga worked for me. But I'm probably doing it wrong.
Old Apr 29, 2017 | 08:48 PM
  #9231  
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Isn't the vband nut 17nm. Or 150in/lbs

Last edited by aidandj; Jun 17, 2017 at 02:30 PM.
Old Apr 29, 2017 | 08:56 PM
  #9232  
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My bad dude, removing bad info. I'm having a hard time posting on my phone.

#sadnodynoweekend
Old Apr 29, 2017 | 09:38 PM
  #9233  
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Transmission is attached. Motor is going in.
Old Apr 30, 2017 | 12:55 AM
  #9234  
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Old Apr 30, 2017 | 01:13 AM
  #9235  
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Almost everything is connected. Taking a pizza break. Haven't decided if I'm going to start it tonight or wait until tomorrow. Its raining and dark. Which means I need to put the hood on....
Old Apr 30, 2017 | 01:16 AM
  #9236  
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y u need hood to start? just start it!
Old Apr 30, 2017 | 01:19 AM
  #9237  
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I don't want to start it and not go break it in.
Old Apr 30, 2017 | 01:22 AM
  #9238  
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then put the hood on. takes 10min.
Old Apr 30, 2017 | 10:44 AM
  #9239  
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We're all wondering if it started yet.

Remember to disable the injectors and crank for oil pressure first. Double and triple check water and oil levels after pumping, then go drive.
Old Apr 30, 2017 | 10:53 AM
  #9240  
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Nope. Its all together except radiator and intake plumbing. Going to throw that stuff on and go for it








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