Dang, I leave for a week and this happens?

I'll message you on hangouts sometime this afternoon, I have offline commentary

 

I know right? I'm as surprised as you are.

 

Oh i forgot. These showed up too

 

@Leafy

What about this? Chevy T5 Shift Lever Striker New Bushing Kit WC or NWC 1351098005 8134054 | eBay

 

Well things are changing here! Very nice!

 

If you go all baller parts build on us, you're not going to settle on 250-300whp are ya?

 

If I do a rods only build I wont push past 300.

If the stars align and I get pistons then i'll be trying to match soviets numbers.

 

Do rods/pistons since you're all baller now. No point in building a baller (but limited by one thing) build.

 

I can do a rods only rebuild for like $500.

I haven't been able to price out a full engine build for less than like $2500.

I have a wedding, and a house to save for. And hailey will hopefully be starting school again in January.

And while I'm not here buying parts paycheck to paycheck, dropping an extra $2k is not a smart move.

I mean thats like 10% of my downpayment goal.

 

I for one approve of your new tittle and where the car is headed. I always knew you hated the track and love the cones.

 

 

 

bout **** my pants at 1:00

 

I understand the budgeting. If it needs to wait then so be it.

Instead of a rods only build, what about a rods only, plus:

forged pistons (~500)
bore/hone at a shop (~200)
and that's it.

There is no way that will add 2,000 dollars more than a 500 dollar rods only motor.

Just don't move the goal post and try to upgrade/replace 20 things "while you're in there".

 

Because if i'm gonna build a motor that can handle the power that forged pistons are necessary for then I want all the other "while you're in there" stuff.

I guess bare minimum for a build that included pistons for me would be:

pistons (~500)
race bearings
boundary pump
main studs (because i already bought them) + line bore
head studs.

It all starts to add up. I need to do more budgeting and see where stuff ends up.

 

Stick to rods. Life is more important.

 

I have 2 blocks. And its not that hard to put together a big build later down the road.

I bought the turbo right now because it is something that I can easily sell if I need the money.

An engine build is more just throwing money away.

 

Also, i've ridden in eds 300hp miata. And you need some serious tires above that power level. I feel like you can scrape by on the street with 225's. But barely.

Goal will be a safe ~300hp. I think with good tuning the stock pistons should manage that.

It also will be well within the efficiency range of the turbo, so there shouldn't be a lot of heat.

Also I still struggle on the track with 160hp. So I'm planning on a dual port turbosmart wastegate actuator with a 3 or 5psi spring.

 

You don't need the line bore to use the ARP studs.

340 at the wheels is fine on the street with 15x9s and 225 Rivals.

You're seriously proposing to open up a motor to replace rods and re-use the bearings that were already in it???

--Ian

 

Hot damn $108 per tire is a great deal.