Doppelgänger

iTrader: (12)

I just don't trust cheap chinese crap for suspension componants....to me, it's like having one of those chinese roll-bars (not style bar) from eGay.....

Just wanted to come in here and take a **** for fun lol.

Carry on.

seattle ammelk

Aye Aye Captain

miataspeed2005

iTrader: (3)

I think it's more like a china charger, a rollbar it's more of a safety thing and that's something you shouldn't cheap out on. Alot of people had doubt on the china chargers and they ended up being great, I think for the price nothing could beat them, specially since 90% of the people on this forum don't race just drive them for fun.

seattle ammelk

Finally..LOL I got mine and my new XXr's from UPS..ordered the rims from teh guy selling on ebay in the Wheel section here. Couldn't be happier..I'll start posting more pic's and info to add to this crazy thread.

Landrew

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for everything and nothing. So I had to adjust them 3 times to get to a decent starting point as no one had any measurements for me on an NB!??

FYI my setup is as follows from the top: raceland locknut, oem domed washer, oem rubber bumper, tophat, oem rubber bumper (that says up), raceland washer. The raceland spring perch sits against the tophat and fits in there by design it seems. Is that all correct ? It seemed logical.

On my 2002 NB in the front I have 50mm of thread showing (from the bottom) to give a ride height of 12 1/4 ".

I expect settling, then we will see how much and if I like it.

Rears will be later this week.


ps: my car came with a nice looking chrome Style Bar, but I now have a black deuce bar in my garage waiting to install. Thats $400 of really important money that I had no issue parting with.

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

You have to keep in mind that the spring rate, the shock body design, the spring perch design, your vehicle's weight (if you have added or removed a lot of weight), the type and condition of your suspension bushings, they are all going to effect the 'how many threads showing' setting. Trial and error is the best way.

Like oilstain said they will settle too, so drive the car for awhile and check them again before you get your alignment.

Landrew

iTrader: (2)

Well hopefully my numbers give a decent base setting -+5mm for a fellow NB'er.

I'm waiting for some settle and then rough roads and well see if I like where it's at.

With so many people self tuning these cars is there any value in a DIY alignment or leave it to the pros?

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

Search is your friend. Lots of posts here and on miata.net on alignment settings for street, autox and track.
Also see 949 Racing, Flyin Miata, and Fat Cat web sites for more information.

Landrew

iTrader: (2)

Perhaps I should rephrase that.

I know there is lot's of info on performing it but and I know each opinion is different but does anyone here do there own and been satisfied - if no why?

I will do a search though as well as I want to know if I need any special tools ie, lasers, sharks, sharks with lasers etc.

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

Oh sorry, I thought you were asking for alignment numbers. It has been a long day and my brain is saturated by nonlinear vibration mechanics.

I personally researched the numbers then took the car to an alignment shop and let them do it per my specs. I tried a few before I found one that could a) get my low *** ground clearance car on their rack and b) not give me crap about my non-stock suspension and alignment specs. I used NTB and bought a 3-year alignment. Conveniently located, and I have taken it back twice in two months with no grief. Tipping the tech helps. I plan to take it back several more times before my three years is up. YMMV.

From what I have seen there are two camps in the group of those who have actually done DIY. Either it is the only way to go and very educational, or it is a huge pain in the *** and takes hours and hours of trial and error and is totally not worth it.

NastyNate

iTrader: (1)

ZX which NTB do you use? I got one from the NTB along 281 and they said they would only do a non OEM spec alignment once. I live over in the Medical Center and would like to find something at least somewhere close to there.

Landrew

iTrader: (2)

Installed the rears at about a 12" ride height. Too low but I was done for the day so I left them. Drove around and not to bad for our crappy roads. Installed a Deuce Bar and while I had the rear wheels off for the bar install I changed to a 12.75" height. In order to do this I had to preload the spring quite a bit. (another 10mm for a total of 60mm of thread showing) My first drive after that and they seem too harsh orver bad pavement. What are my options as I'm new at this?

I've seen spacers that go between the top of the top hat and body giving maybe 1cm which means I can lessen the preload and get a softer ride at the same height. Is anything to be gained by putting a taller top spring perch (or spacer) in or is that essentially the same as just moving the bottom collars position ? Do I need longer springs or is the shock shaft too predominant in the ride height?

I'll re-read this thread again for more insight but I thought I'd put that out there for now.

jacob300zx

Lower it until there is no perload.

seattle ammelk

I finally got mine on. Not to bad so far. I'm sitting to low in the rear but the fronts are perfect.
Then its off to start working the numbers for sway bars and see what I can come up with. Ride is ok so far...
I'm not noticing a whole lot of harshness on brakeing bumps at stoplights and what not but slow large bumps like root bumps from tree's and the what not at under 10mph the car just doesnt' like it... well see though
I'll post more info and what not after a little while at the ride height I want

Landrew

iTrader: (2)

Current settings. Going to raise it a bit next month. Done today on cell phone - low quality

bandit mx5

hey guys..its been a long project. pulled the motor all new seals and gaskets on the motor. replaced, revamped and did plenty of projects on car will post some pics soon..i put on my coilovers and seem to like them i read the huge thread on the racelands and was wonderin if anyone had a clanking sound??? iwill it go away? i think its from the metal spacer between springs an tophat?? they should have made them out of rubber or polyureathane..any help here? i have prolly only put about 500 miles on them

18psi

iTrader: (76)

did you reuse the rubber hat thingies from your stock tophats? because you're supposed to.

Mine are still doing great and have never clunked

bandit mx5

crap! i gotta redo them..shouldn b too bad

dustinb

bluemonkey

iTrader: (1)

I don't have the rubber hats on my rears and they're just fine *shrug*