93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread
#3321
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I believe you need to keep the stock piece as a spacer otherwise you can't put fittings onto the thermostat plate iirc.
Put the gates belt on with the ati damper, yes. It's a pita to install /remove.
Put the gates belt on with the ati damper, yes. It's a pita to install /remove.
#3324
I really haven't touched the motor at all hence the lack of a 25/26. I guess I'll need one soon as I'm putting an ATI damper and 12-1 trigger on soon.
Good time to change the timing belt with a nice blue Gates as well even though it only has 20k on it?
Thinking I may tap the Mocal sandwich plate in 2 more places for turbo oil feed and oil temp gauge.
Also, the Mocal plate doesn't seem to have the 2 coolant ports as the OEM one does. Are people just running a coolant line from the front of the motor to the rear? Doesn't seem necessary to cool the plate any more with the 25 row setrab.
Good time to change the timing belt with a nice blue Gates as well even though it only has 20k on it?
Thinking I may tap the Mocal sandwich plate in 2 more places for turbo oil feed and oil temp gauge.
Also, the Mocal plate doesn't seem to have the 2 coolant ports as the OEM one does. Are people just running a coolant line from the front of the motor to the rear? Doesn't seem necessary to cool the plate any more with the 25 row setrab.
If you're putting an ATI on, definitely do the timing belt at the same time because it's a PITA to take it off and do it later.
I think most people just delete the coolant line going down the intake side. The factory oil warmer isn't very useful (except as a spacer), and the throttle body heater may or may not be useful depending on how cold it gets where you live. I removed the front feed when I did the reroute, and just capped off the port on the back of the head, this eliminates potential coolant failure points.
--Ian
#3326
Cold weather isn't a big deal as it is just a weekend car/track car.
Curly how did you cap your coolant ports on the back/front? Just weld the bungs shut after cutting them off? I have some rubber caps, but as you stated, it is still a failure point.
Also, it is ridiculous how fast those rubber caps start to crack on the intake manifold. Anyone point me in a direction that won't wear out as fast from heat? I'm guessing there are silicone versions?
Curly how did you cap your coolant ports on the back/front? Just weld the bungs shut after cutting them off? I have some rubber caps, but as you stated, it is still a failure point.
Also, it is ridiculous how fast those rubber caps start to crack on the intake manifold. Anyone point me in a direction that won't wear out as fast from heat? I'm guessing there are silicone versions?
#3327
Cold weather isn't a big deal as it is just a weekend car/track car.
Curly how did you cap your coolant ports on the back/front? Just weld the bungs shut after cutting them off? I have some rubber caps, but as you stated, it is still a failure point.
Also, it is ridiculous how fast those rubber caps start to crack on the intake manifold. Anyone point me in a direction that won't wear out as fast from heat? I'm guessing there are silicone versions?
Curly how did you cap your coolant ports on the back/front? Just weld the bungs shut after cutting them off? I have some rubber caps, but as you stated, it is still a failure point.
Also, it is ridiculous how fast those rubber caps start to crack on the intake manifold. Anyone point me in a direction that won't wear out as fast from heat? I'm guessing there are silicone versions?
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#3333
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Mixing manifold and thermostat neck (if keeping) are twisted out, and welded shut. As for the rear port on the head, I use a piece of high quality hose (fuel pressure hose works well), a bolt, and 2 clamps. That's THE best "cap" you can buy, anything else will fail quickly. I have one of these "ghetto" caps on Laz's, Oregonmon's, my own, and my friend's VVT build. I also recently found the same on Ed's TSE built MSM motor, so yeah, that's your answer.