93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread - Page 74 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 03-06-2014, 05:55 AM   #1461
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Cruise control?
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Old 03-06-2014, 09:26 AM   #1462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
Hmm. Let me know what you think, but I'm a big fan of not adding weight without proven benefits. I'm even against frame rails, and those are proven to reduce chassis flex on jack stands by something like 30%. FM did a test. Is there any more info on these and frog arms beyond "reduces cowl shake"?

Didn't Nial have a glowing review for his Boss Frog pieces?
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Old 03-06-2014, 09:49 AM   #1463
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I hope that T is before the 1-way valve or you're gonna be in for some serious anus puckering the 1st time you drive your car
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Old 03-06-2014, 09:57 AM   #1464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
I hope that T is before the 1-way valve or you're gonna be in for some serious anus puckering the 1st time you drive your car


Hahaha i was just thinking that. I remember the time i referenced my AFPR off of something similar. That was fun. It was like a permanent peak/hold fuel pressure system.

Boost once, rich FOREVER.
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Old 03-06-2014, 10:24 AM   #1465
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**** T ing off of your BB. That **** scares the **** outta me.
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Old 03-06-2014, 10:33 AM   #1466
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The one way valve is inside the rubber line on the correct side of that T. But double check - you should feel a lump inside the rubber line.
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:11 AM   #1467
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Just in case not obvious from everyone's responses, that T is not OEM.
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:45 AM   #1468
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc View Post
I have this random braided line laying around, but the male/female ends don't exactly match the clutch hard line and slave cylinder port.

That looks like the oil feed for your turbo?

Yeah, that vac T is not stock. I'd use it for a boost gauge or MS source provided the above about the check valve.

I've got the Boss Frog fender braces. Its disturbing how much difference they make. The ONLY thing that I've experienced that was better than the fender braces was Gesso's seam welded NB1. That thing is scary rigid, makes my NB1 feel loose and floppy.

You know, perfect time to mention seam welding now that you have already done all the bodywork and have moved to reassembly

Last edited by EO2K; 03-06-2014 at 01:15 PM.
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:50 AM   #1469
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If that's for the MS, get rid of it, replace it with a new oem hose, and T off the FPR line.
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:52 AM   #1470
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Oh yeah, listen to Curly. I have an NB so no FPR vac line
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:45 PM   #1471
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I used a line like that for my boost gauge. Too much "noise" in the signal to use it for anything else.
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:51 PM   #1472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
If that's for the MS, get rid of it, replace it with a new oem hose, and T off the FPR line.
I finally got the smoothest MAP signal for my MS by doing exactly this. T it of the FPR line, and I ran a little "fuel filter" inline as a buffer to smooth out the signal, like this:

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93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-empi-vwfuelfilter.jpg  
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:59 PM   #1473
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fireindc View Post

I finally got the smoothest MAP signal for my MS by doing exactly this. T it of the FPR line, and I ran a little "fuel filter" inline as a buffer to smooth out the signal, like this:
Thanks guys. Anyone have a picture of it T'd off the FPR line? Sorry, my brain works like that.

I'll search for one once done with work. I'm sure curly/someone else had it documented.
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Old 03-07-2014, 04:25 AM   #1474
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Finished off all the fluids except the radiator.

Pressure bled the Master cylinder for the clutch. Just in case anyone wants to know, the pressure bleeder cap for my 2010 VW Jetta TDI was a PERFECT FIT for the clutch master resevoir. I was really happy since the cap I made didn't work very well. So if you are looking for a cap for the clutch, look at VW!

I forgot how much harder the clutch is to engage on this car! I'm too used to my light VW clutch.



Filled the transmission up with some good Amsoil and replaced the crush washers for both the bolts. Transmission took almost the full 2 quarts, was getting scared I didn't buy enough but it started to drip out at the end. Pretty dang easy. Getting the torque wrench around the downpipe was a bit of a pain but nothing a wobble extension couldn't solve.



And some fresh oil and a new filter for the engine too. Is there any way to bleed the turbo oil lines before first run?

Attached Thumbnails
93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_2045.jpg   93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_2046.jpg   93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread-img_2047.jpg  

Last edited by Jeffbucc; 03-07-2014 at 05:33 AM.
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Old 03-07-2014, 07:15 AM   #1475
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What manner of pump is that? I like it.
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Old 03-07-2014, 07:52 AM   #1476
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
What manner of pump is that? I like it.
Ironically it looks like a shampoo bottle pump.
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Old 03-07-2014, 07:58 AM   #1477
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Ohhh this thing is so close to starting I can feel it!!!
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Old 03-07-2014, 08:46 AM   #1478
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Disconnect the spark plugs and fuel injectors and crank it until you see the oil pressure gauge move.
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Old 03-07-2014, 08:51 AM   #1479
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I usually remove oil feed from turbo, crank until it spews oil into a cup.

Re-install. Crank a few more times to prime.

Then put fuses back in. Fire.
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Old 03-07-2014, 09:20 AM   #1480
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I usually just start the car.

It takes the same amount of engine rotations to make oil pressure regardless. just start it and it will be fine. Unless you have a backflow valve on your turbo line it likely drains back to somewhere else in the oil system every time you turn off the car.
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