The purely analog ones. I won't give the actual link but a site has 1 boost and 1 afr gauge for 60% off.

AEM Wideband Air/Fuel UEGO Gauges w/Analog Face - Wideband O2 UEGO, Water/Methanol, Stand Alone Engine Management, Piggyback F/IC, Tru Boost Controller, Gauges, Automotive Performance Electronics

AEM Boost Gauges with Analog Face - Wideband O2 UEGO, Water/Methanol, Stand Alone Engine Management, Piggyback F/IC, Tru Boost Controller, Gauges, Automotive Performance Electronics

 

Does VDO offer a stepper-motor wideband? I can't comment on the quality of any VDO products but having used both AEM Digital and Analog style stepper-motor widebands on the dyno, I STRONGLY prefer the analog needle.

While tuning you can visually see which direction your AFR is heading instead of trying to pay attention to jumps in the digits. Granted both offer completely the same data while logging for more accurate changes but gauges are supposed to be a VISUAL reference and (to me) needle movement is a stronger visual reference than digital numbers refreshing on a screen.

Others may feel differently but some of the better tuners I know turned me on to this concept and now I couldn't agree more.

 

I used those on a MSPNP car I tuned, and could never get the gauge to match up with TS completely accurately. Meanwhile, I've used a bunch of all digital ones and never had issues. So I dunno, that's just my experience with them.

 

Are you talking about the AEM or VDO?

With AEM people commonly run into accuracy issues when the grounding is not run directly to the same ECU ground location.

I've had the same issue with a digital gauge on an Adaptronic setup. Numbers weren't quite right - changed the ground location and they were dead on.

 

AEM
maybe that's what my problem was, but since I only got to tune the 1 car with it I don't know if it was a grounding issue like you say.

 

I went through the gauge buying thing a little while back. AEM is the only vendor which sells a complete series of analog gauges, including AFR.

Stack has stepper motor analogs, however, they only offer an LED AFR gauge. Same goes for VDO. There might be some obscure manufacturer out there which also offers an analog wideband, however, I didn't find it.

::EDIT::

Apparently Autometer sells analog wideband gauges in their phantom and sport-comp series (probably others as well). Innovate doesn't sell their analog gauge anymore, not that it matters since they didn't offer a matching boost/vac.

I like my gauges analog, and I like them to match.




-Zach

 

Jeff... Just a little sneak preview of what your black intercooler will look like

(This is the Stage 2)




I wasn't able to get today's batch wrapped up in time for shipping so you'll see tracking tomorrow morning.

 

Zach, do you remember exactly how you wired your boost gauge? Or is it documented in your thread somewhere?

 

*tucks in waistline*

 

Haven't wired it yet. A 10 degree garage means if it can't be done off of the car, it won't be done until spring.

I plan on t'ing my vac line at the MSPNP. Rest of the wiring is pretty straight forward stuff. I'll daisy-chain the power to an interior source and run the grounds to where ever is convenient (except for the wideband, which will go to the OEM ECU ground).

-Zach

 

Ah ok.

Was just wondering because we have the boost gauge in our 95, and whomever installed it clearly didn't wire it correctly. It's cutting power during cranking, which means that it re-calibrates to zero once the car is running. Which... isn't useful.

Probably straight forward, the AEM diagram is easy enough to follow, i'm just not familiar with Miata wiring or where to pull the power for the pink wire on the AEM pigtail. Won't get to it for a week or two, was just looking for spoon feeding if it was available.

 

Oh lord that looks good. So happy I decided on black. Thanks for the deal on the gauges too!

OK not much done today. I decided to align my doors properly so that they would open and close solidly. Got them as close as I could make them(or at least stand spending more time adjusting them).

So while I was in there....I ordered some Garagestar fender braces since they had a coupon on their site a little while back. Install of these is dead simple. You can do it easily in 30 minutes. Probably more for you people who actually have their fenders ON their car.

They really make a quality product though. Nothing to adjust at all, just pops right in. I reused my zinc plated bolts just for uniformity sake and added another washer under them.



Also, since I am putting the Aerocatch hood pins on my car, rather than the heavy hood latch, I picked up a Garagestar uncut radiator plate as well. Looks rather clean if I must say so myself! The only thing I want to change is the finishing screws to black.

 

Jeff, this is simply stunning. Props as usual.

 

"Paint" them with a sharpie.

 

I'm considering getting those fender braces too. Very nicee

 

Hmm. Let me know what you think, but I'm a big fan of not adding weight without proven benefits. I'm even against frame rails, and those are proven to reduce chassis flex on jack stands by something like 30%. FM did a test. Is there any more info on these and frog arms beyond "reduces cowl shake"?

Pro-tip, that's a perfect place to drill and install a riv-nut. And another tool to buy if you don't have a riv-nut tool That's if Garage Star's panel uses a nut/bolt like my ancient Moss Motors piece.

Get out.

 

Weight of one bracket is 2.8 lbs. A lot of people have report a noticeable difference in stability mid-corner and at high speeds. Supposedly helps with giving the front end a much more solid feel, less rattling, cowl shake, and on bumpy sections of the road it soaks up the bumps much more fluidly than normal.

Who knows how much of that is true. I did read several forums/threads that corroborated the same information. I'm not sure how much of a difference I'll be able to feel since this car will be almost 100% different than it was before.

I've changed so many things chassis/body related that who knows exactly what part has added to making the car feel stiffer.

I have a rivnut tool from my chassis brace in my VW. The garagestar panel though, mounts to the three screw locations on the chassis. Would there be any reason to rivnut it rather than the screws? I tried shaking it and it seemed pretty darn solid.

Little more work done.

Mounted the clutch master cylinder. Couldn't find the gasket and had some sticky "craft" felt laying around so I just made a new one for it.



The clutch slave line I put in is rubber, but is it actually a braided stainless under the rubber?



I have this random braided line laying around, but the male/female ends don't exactly match the clutch hard line and slave cylinder port.



Decided to make a pressure bleeder cap for the slave cylinder So I drilled a hole in my spare cap. And slid the plastic piece into the hole for a rubber line to slip over.



Put some epoxy on both sides of the grommet to insure the pressure bleeder holds strong. Also put some epoxy in the breather port.



Forgot I got a Miata specific brake master cap(My pressure bleeder cap is a VW fitment)



All finished up.

 

I agree - No weight unless it outweighs itself in gains.

We just recently picked up the BossFrog product line and I had to get a set for my personal car. I first asked him about the rails thinking that would probably net the most noticeable gains and this was the response I got:

"You should try the Frog Arms - will make you a believer".

His response surprised me, but he is after all in the business of stopping chassis flex.

 

Speedhut makes some as well.
/threadjack



Keep on doing the good work OP.

 

Perfect recipe for easy brake bleeding.



I went RR/RL/RF/LF and went around the car about 5 time to ensure all the bubbles stopped coming out. Bleeding a dry brake line system sucks.



Can anyone tell me what vacuum line gets T'd off here above the brake master cylinder?