One step at a time, looks like some of that is going to be cleaned up soon. I'm assuming he won't leave a giant bundle of red wire back there for instance...

Jeff, I switched the T so the FPR got a direct line of travel from it's source on the intake manifold, and with fresh vacuum line, your hose clamp is most likely overkill. You'll probably do more damage than good on the little vacuum line. A clean black zip tie is probably all you need. Don't forget the Armor All on the zip tie of course. And along the same lines, the giant brass T is most likely overkill, but at least stronger than the plastic ones, albeit less inconspicuous.

I've T'd off the FPR for the MAP, then T'd off the MAP line once it's in the cabin for the MS, and it's worked great for years.

 

Thanks, that makes a lot of sense on the direct FPR then T'ing off the line. The brass T was already on the car in a different spot so I just reused it. I'm sure the small plastic T I got with the gauges is more than sturdy, and cleaner looking too.

Would there be issues with too much voltage draw by tapping both gauges into the same ignition wire source and running an inline 5a 12v fuse on each gauge?

 

Did you miss post #1600?

 

No

We are talking about the same thing, just different places. I just forgot about it!

Sorry, been a long day at work already haha.

 

How much power do you think your gauges need to operate?
Come on, you are over that level

 

oh you need to power 2 gauges?

better do it right and get one of these



On a serious note:
I run all my gauges off the fuse box tapping into not very important fuses. No splicing or cutting of wires, and if something happens the fuse will pop and nothing will short or burn or be damaged.

 

Since the wideband gauge uses a heated O2 so the current draw is higher than you'd expect. But still.. The ignition cylinder uses 12 gauge wires that supply the current to everything else in the vehicle but the starter.

 

Yup, I'm just overthinking this as always. Vuti, my wiring skills are so not over that level, I'm basically learning from scratch as I go here.

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As per Curly's advice, I changed the vacuum setup. Put the T on correctly so the FPR is the main line and the T is going to the MS. Boost gauge is then T'd off of the MS vacuum line.

 

...was joking.

 

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Wired everything up. Was a lot easier than I was making it in my head. I still need to wire the analog +/- wires but I need to find out what the pins in his ms3 connector goes. He did a DIY ms3x, so brain didn't make it otherwise it would be easy to know what goes where.

All the wiring not going back in the car...thank god



Dashboard harness all cleaned up.



I taped it like this just in case there was an issue with the wires, I could clip the tape really quick. I used anti friction tape to bundle it all together(if you can't tell I love this stuff. $2.36 at Wal-mart...I have 6 rolls of it)



I routed the wires up the oem firewall harness, taping it as I went and pulled it under the HVAC box to the center tombstone. I haven't trimmed the ground cables up yet, I want to wait until I put the dashboard back in.





Said analog cables I still need to connect

 

Also it looks like I've sprung a small leak in the transmission. How tight does this bolt need to be? Is there a gasket/crush washer that goes under it?

It has leaked about a tablespoon of oil since I filled it up.

 

Is that the same stuff you used to "anti-rattle" the HVAC rods and such? I meant to ask you about that before as I've been looking for something similar that isn't just 'fabric tape' that'll get all squishy when it gets hot. This is gonna sound stupid but I can haz link please?

 

Is that a 6 speed? If so, be VERY DAMN CAREFUL about what plugs you mess with. I know there are plugs in that trans that are not actually plugs, but retainers for internal parts

 

Yeah I was careful not to remove that plug! There is one with a ball bearing where if you remove it you have to tear apart your transmission.

I believe this one is the reverse light switch.

 

Sorry I was getting some food and missed this. same stuff. It is at walmart in either the crafts area or by the automotive/lighting area.

Just gotta look around, they tend to move it

 

Just tore apart Doppels car, that plug was leaking on his as well. I think I did see a washer though. Definitely should look into that.

 

Hey Jeff when you wire up that boost gauge, be a doll and exhaustively document exactly what you do, kthx.

 

Want me to get some shots of the ignition wires I tapped into? Or more to the point the ms3 analog connection?

 

Ignition wires you tapped into for boost gauge. MS2 gives no ***** about what the boost gauge is doing.

 

Red/black for lighting
Blue for switched
White for constant

There are 2 white that look identical but one has a small blue stripe on it. Use the pure white one. I had about 5 random unused vampire clips on my ignition harness...don't be that guy.

I'll take some pictures later today but I'm in Cedar City actually doing real work for most the day.

*edit* fixed the constant and switched to the correct wires*