Because I have the t5 all planned out in my head.

I posted about it like a page ago.

And I think I can do it for less than my 6 speed is worth.

 

Ed. Don't tell hailey about this until she gets the ring.

 

 

win

 

These aren't always around. So when I searched for them and found out they were back I pulled the trigger.

Which block would you guys use.

1. Pulled out of car with rod knock. Can move rod around on the brank.

1. Worked well enough to power the car into a telephone pole at a high rate of speed. Oil filter was totally trashed, kind of worried it ran without oil. cracked oil pan+oil pump.

 

take apart both. inspect. make best decision based on wear/scoring

 

good idea.I need to finish cleaning the garage. Then build an ms3 for a friend. Then I will get into some of this.

 

#1 would be my choice.

 

What is the difference between the Boundary oil pump gears, and the complete oil pump?

 

Boundary used to sell gears you would install into the pump housing yourself. AIUI, they stopped because too many people weren't reading the instructions to check clearances and were just tossing the gears into the housing to bad effect. I don't think you can buy just the gears any more?

--Ian

 

apparently you can. they started selling them without pump again. Not a bad idea, for those that can actually follow instructions it would save some money

aidan, the pump is a slap it in and not worry about it deal. gears you gotta go through the trouble of measuring, clearancing, etc.

 

Just one of those things that I could actually save from doing twice. If I'm going to buy a new oil pump (because one is broken, one had rod bearing stuff through it) I might as well get the right pump.

Stage 0: Mazda\Ford BP Oil Pump Gears ? Boundary

Those are just the gears. Im more curious about the difference between the gears and the stage 2 pump. Is the stage 1 pump a normal pump with gears, and the stage 2 pump has some special machining?

 

This is something I can do. If I can save $100 by doing the labor myself I will. I'm mainly interested in the difference between stage 0 and stage 2. I will hit up boundary on tuesday (I have a track day tomorrow).

Thinking the following:

Machine shop for a hot tank+hone. Because both engines are questionable I want everything cleaned out them. That will be the only labor I pay for.
Ebay rods
Ebay head gasket
New bearings, new rings
I have some VVT engine gaskets laying around, will need to get the rest. Probably through mazda.
The only thing up in the air is the oil pump. I dont really want to reuse either pumps. So if I'm buying new I might as well get boundary, because I can reuse down the road.

 

sounds like the choice is clear

 

About oil pump?

 

Stage two has additional machining, according to boundry's website

 

Saw that. Which doesn't actually help me figure out what makes it better than stage 1

 

It's one better, obviously.

 

It says what the stage 2 is, they machine the housing and stick physically thicker gears in there for more flow.

Then there's the 2+, it's shimmed and some other stuff for more pressure.

If you are going VVT, I'd probably get the stage 2 at least.

 

Stage 0 has an option for VVT.

Currently at the track.



My other NPT connection in the fuel system started leaking. Pulled it apart. Relubed with rotella. Stopped leaking.

7 hours of track time tomorrow. Going to try and do at least 3-4