No. Race bearings should probably be used in the rods build anyways.

Idk. too many decisions.

 

I bought the same thing with a used bushing because my rebuilt tranny came with a new one.

 

I know hailey wants me to just do it once. So if I can swing an oil pump and pistons, then that covers everything inside the block. Head studs, damper, can be done later.

I will try and come up with some numbers.

Buy more SADFab stuff if you guys want to see this happen

 

Tell me more about this T5 swap. Which bellhousing are you planning on using? The Quicktime?

 

Doing it similarly to how savington is doing it.

Chop off a 5 speed belhousing. Mill 1/2 flange for the t5 at work. Throw belhousing in mill and cut to height. Weld belhousing to flange.

Use stock miata hydraulics. Different TOB and clutch discs. Hoping to have custom discs built for the twin disc.

 

You need the EFR-specific shorty M8x1.25 stud. Drilling for M10 is a huge PITA and not necessary. Had to do a custom stud for that turbo because there's so little space on some of the turbine housings.

 

Cool. You will be getting an order from me of those in the future. Need to make sure my turbo flange has m8 threads too.

 

That reminds me to ask here for opinions.

304SS, 316SS, or 321SS.

My manifold will be so short and small that going all out on 321 won't be a huge deal. But finding a flange for it is pretty damn hard.

I am not impressed with how my 304SS manifold held up.

 

347, son.

lol IRL @ thread title

 

I can't find 347 weld els. Or inconel for that matter

321 isn't horrendously expensive. about $5 extra for short radius, $10 extra per long radius.

304 schedule 40 wouldn't be bad either. My current manifold is schedule 10. And I think that might be contributing to my issues.

Sean and Aaron are ********.

 

You need clarity in your life, and we bring that to you whether you like it or not.

 

Ok. Can I get some materials engineers up in here to corroborate.

The heat affected zone (HAZ) is where most manifold cracks start

304L suffers from corrosion or "weld decay" in the HAZ

321 has titanium added to offset this. This means that 321 is less likely to crack after being welded.

I'm not baller enough for 321 flanges, but my understanding is that they are not as important, because they are thicker, therefore less likely to crack in the HAZ.

321 plate (for gussets) is stupid expensive. 316 should be fine though. And 316 bar isn't too expensive. Because gussets aren't as important (as a cracked pipe) i should be able to get away with 316 gussets.

Can't find anyone who does a stainless head flange so mild it is, see my comment about being thicker so less likely to crack in the HAZ.

SO...

1018 Mild Flange (PRL motorsports)
321 Short radius schedule 40 90*s
316 gussets and turbo flanges.

Should be a pretty bomb proof manifold.

347 filler for the 321, and either 347 or 309 for the 321 to mild.

 

Might just get a run of 316 head flanges run anyways. its like ~40 in materials per flange. Need to talk to my buddy.

 

2 things that immediately spring to mind as far as SS goes:

1. Fab9 uses 1/2" 304L for their manifolds, perhaps they would be willing to sell you a couple?
2. BMC Race has the code for a CNC ported BP flange that they sell in 1/2" mild, but they also list Honda flanges in 304SS. They have the code and they have the material, it may just be a matter of contacting them?

​But both of these will cost significantly more than $40, so

 

I want 316L

BMC told leafy like $200 for a SS flange.

 

BMC sucks. You should never use them. They are slow and expensive. PRL Motorsports is a much better shop to deal with for flanges. They have the same flanges as BMC for half the price. I know because I sent the BMC flanges to PRL for them to copy and make better.

 

Good to know!

 

So if I get 316 flanges then I just use 347 filler for everything.

If I can crack schedule 40 321 then bow down to me for I am the master of destruction.

 

get in line behind the "inconel destroyer"

 

He didn't break it while driving