Yeah Ive got to pull the engine one last time to add the gaskets and add the timing belt and such so ill snap some pics then. the notch in the subframe is cut but not closed up yet because i wasnt sure if i would need to take off some more so the pan would fit. everything seems to clear now by at least 3/16" so im planning on doing one last grinding. ( -1/16" ish) and welding it shut.

 

You need to change your name to yANk.

Wow I may have to get that 75° pipe. My compressor housing has a bend on the outlet that looks like it'll line up perfectly- would just need a longish coupler or to add a leg on it.

 

Ha! Ill have extra 2" pipe i can ship to you if you want it. Ordering a 30deg coupler for the compressor outlet.

 

Are you running 2.5" on the cold side? do you need some (couplers and pipe)? I've actually got a cast aluminum bend... the question is do you want to weld to your compressor housing... and I'd guess not.

 

Yeah 2.5" cold side but ive got plenty of pipe/couplers. compressor outlet is 2" and there's no way i'm welding on to that turbo lol.

 

Finished the coolant reroute tube tonight and then pulled the engine and trans for final assembly. I welded a bracket to support the pipe in the center and added a thick plate to drill and tap for the fan switch right before the coupler on the inlet of the radiator.
I hope to clean up the engine bay tomorrow and do some painting of the brackets and mounts ive made throughout the build process. Still waiting on my hubs to get back from the machine shop...

 

shiny cam gears

 

Things are slowing down drastically since school started this past Monday. My current goal is to invest at least 1 afternoon per week on the car. I finished putting the long block together this past weekend and tonight i did a bunch of wiring with a friend. What a freaking mess..


Interior is looking pretty clean though. All that's left is wire for the radio.


FYI. final subframe mods.



and for my question of the day.

What is this thing?
how does it work?
what wires need to go to it?
and
can i get by without it if im running AC?

 

That thing is your A/C relay. It's switches the compressor (clutch) and A/C fan. I think you need all the wires since you're using of all your A/C.

 

Were your mounts fab'd from a universal motor mount kit?

 

Nope. Ill add a link and some part numbers for the bushings i used when i get access to my spreadsheet.

 

curious.. Temp switch or pressure switch? I was assuming it was a temp switch so that if the temp got below a certain point then the fan would kick on. this would mean that two relays would be sending 12v to the fan. case 1 if the coolant temp switch is closed, case 2 if the AC switch is closed, and case 3 if both switches are closed. could be a pressure sensor in there to kick the compressor clutch in. Ill have to see what i can make of the wiring diagrams i guess.

Worked on the car some today. mostly making provisions for the wire tuck. I used some compression fittings to clamp onto the existing fuel lines today as well.

 

I only asked if it was kit because of the contour cuts on the box that holds the bushing/sleeve. That's a nice half circle. I found a bunch poly bushings kits for leaf spring shackles, end links and body lifts- figured it was something from those. I use kit loosely as it is basically a bushing, inner sleeve and specs for the outer tubing to use.

Pressure switch. I'm only aware of one thermosensor and that's in the evaporator. But yeah, I wouldn't do anything w/o looking at the wiring diagram.

 

Bushing site.
http://www.suspension.com/4-bar.htm
BX430
BX431

 

I hope the 90 degree waterpipe is just a mock-up.

 

It'll do the job temporary. my money is better spent in other areas at the moment.

 

Yep- all similar to what I found. I'm just impressed by those perfect half circles in the mount box. They look laser cut or stamped.



Oscar has a point- low pressure systems appreciazte nice curves. Water pumps just froth the water if they have too much back pressure (what allows them to contend with a closed thermostat and smaller exits from the engine during cold). I got scolded for something similar and stuck a curved hose in there so never got to see a negative. But if you see higher temps, that will be worthy of investigating.

 

being a street car, I dont think he'll see raised temps unless he's doing extened hard driving or high RPM Runs in auto-x or track days where the excessive flows and back pressure cause the water pump to cavitate... I've seen a few motor swaps into drift cars use 90's like that and only saw temps rise when they're doing alot of lower speed/ higher RPM (8000 +) running...and with that a cool down lap and let it idle with the cooling fan on and the temps drop quick...

BUT a 1.5 inch silicone 90 in place of that welded 90 costs about $15 shipped off of ebay and would work awesome

 

Good point. Thanks for the explanation. Its going to be tricky to find a reduction 90deg coupler this size but ill keep my eyes open.

 

Well there ya go- Joe knows. Like I said, I changed it before I tried it, but the explanation was enough to frighten me into changing it- not usual in my case.

If the diameter change isn't too large you can use some heat and soap water to stretch it (providing it's a quality hose).