This technique works in other situations as well.

 

Finally got my sandwich plate issue worked out. I turned down the stock stem, took a die to it and cut off the hex head when i was finished. turned out nice.



Finally got the hubs back from the machine shop today. I had to call my dad and tell him to throw a few beers in the fridge after i paid the bill on it though. $470 for 11.75 hours of labor. granted it took them 3 hours to pull the old miata axles from the spindles but it shouldn't have taken them that long to do the machine work in my opinion. As they were driving in one of the studs one of the holes blew out and they had to re-weld.. kind of worried about the strength of the hubs at this point seeing as they took off some material to re- surface the face of the hub as well..


here is a comparison of the thickness between the stock miata and my modified hubs. (shiny = rx7)

I signed a liability waiver when i paid the bill and he told me to take it easy on them...


... Riiight.

 

WTF crap shop did you go to!! thats ludacris. what was the initial problem anyhow???

I have a shop press at my place id of gladly taken on the project for you.

 

would have taken you up on it 4 months ago if i had known..

as described in Mightymouses' thread the point of using the rx7 hubs is so that the rx7 axles just slide right into the splined hub. otherwise i would need to come up with a custom axle solution or modify the rear diff to accept the miata axles which are much weaker.

 

... As of today i have over $10,000 invested in this build. Parts, labor, hardware, and materials. This doesnt include tools ive bought along the way...


Please make it stop.

 

I feel your pain...lol

 

in the event next time. just give me a ring i'll see what i can do to help out.

 

No compri$es son!
Can you justify everything in your spread sheet?

 

Uh, haven't people been having issues with using the oil pressure sensor on a "T" like that? vibrations will break the T. I believe you have to mount the T somewhere in the engine bay and route a braided line to it.

 

I had mine on the T. Ebay T broke in a couple weeks. Then I got a decent quality one from a local hardware store. No issues at all.

 

FM uses a T on their turbo kits for oil feed. At least when I bought mine from them. No issues with it, didn't look like it would break.

 

Yes. Of course i could have bought some less expensive items that would do the job but i tried to make quality and dependability a priority in order to build it right the first time.
I got shafted on a few items
-$240 to shave 3 lbs from the flywheel.
-$470 hub / brake rotor machining.

and i initially bought a few items on craigslist that im not going to end up using due to the integrated features of the EFR.
-Tial Q 50mm BOV (new efficient one)
-Tial V44 wastegate
-boost solenoid
-2" 90deg coupler

 

I'm with you on this. Granted at the moment it feels really stout there has to be a high stress concentration on the male to male threaded section in the block. I like the idea of the remote mount via flexible line idea. I also considered welding a bracket to the T up to the nearest tapped hole on the block. This option would be free which is good under my current financial circumstances. do you think this would suffice?

 

If it were me, I'd make my own. Block of aluminum, drill some intersecting holes, tap your NPT threads, drill a hole next to them to mount it.

 

Yah that is expensive! For that price you could have basically just bought brand new hubs already machined to work from miataroadster.

But look at it this way- now you can use off the shelf axles

 

I missed that. Total BS IMO. What you asked them to do wasn't rocket science for a machine shop. Unfortunately I've been through similar scenarios with builders/machinists.

 

well. thinning the hub like that will have a dramatically negative effect upon the brake rotor hat depth/sitting position. you'll have to space your caliper back the same effective distance they shaved.
go buy a digital caliper if you don't already have one-harbor freight has decent ones.

short of that- KYclutch.com Great people insanely cheap pricing. $50 to lighten & resurface your flywheel.
tell them the guys from clubprotege sent you over & they'll take good care of you.

 

I could do this. Ive got a bunch of 1/2" aluminum laying around. Id need to buy the NPT tap tho which i wouldn't mind owning.

 

If they crack i might end up having miataroadster do a different set for me.

Wont the caliper adjust for the different placement of the rotor? It floats on a pin i'm pretty sure. i'm guessing at the most they took off .0625 but ill mic it when i get the parts out to the shop.

 

Check with DHAARK too, he was the one who did mine. He is on this forum as well (I noticed he's selling a set of already machined hubs in his FS thread *wink wink*)