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Old 09-11-2011, 01:19 AM   #181
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Got one of the injector extensions finished this last week at school. its gonna take about an hour a piece.



I put the engine back in today after i mounted the VR sensor in the bellhousing. Hooked up some oil lines, reinforced the tapped holes in the radiator and decided to make the water inlet pipe all aluminum down to the bottom of the radiator since its so close to the exhaust manifold.





Temp Switch will kick in the electric water pump. Im hoping i can set this up to take the place of the turbo timer.

The manifold is currently VHT ceramic coated and i plan to wrap it and a few of the lines close to the manifold to keep temps down.

A few weeks ago i picked up some of that reflective heat shield that mighty mouse has on the bottom of his hood. I put it in the trans tunnel on the exhaust side. Not sure how well its going to hold up with the exposure to moisture but it seems to be sticking very well now. Ill keep an eye on it and let you know if its not going to work.
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Build Thread (FE3, RX7 TII, EFR 6258, MS3)-photo0244.jpg   Build Thread (FE3, RX7 TII, EFR 6258, MS3)-photo0245.jpg   Build Thread (FE3, RX7 TII, EFR 6258, MS3)-dsc02573.jpg   Build Thread (FE3, RX7 TII, EFR 6258, MS3)-dsc02575.jpg   Build Thread (FE3, RX7 TII, EFR 6258, MS3)-dsc02574.jpg  

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Old 09-11-2011, 10:39 AM   #182
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fwiw- Competition Products has some of the best deals on hose/wire wrap I've found.

Inj adapter is to fit the extra large bore of the Kia rail?

What's triggering the VR sensor? I didn't see it mentioned in the thread.

The real advantage of a turbo timer is that it's circulating the coolant AND oil at shutdown. I suppose circulating the coolant is better than nothing, but I still wouldn't shut off a hot turbo. Now if you had another electric pump for the oil...
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Old 09-11-2011, 12:10 PM   #183
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Nice link.

The top of the injectors fit fine in the kia rail as is. The top cap just extends the length of the injector. I had to make a sleeve for the injector boss tho. Its also seen in the pic.

VR sensor gets its signal from the 60-2 missing tooth gear on the stock kia sportage flywheel. Might be able to see it on the first page with all the parts laid out on the table.

If for some reason i get back from a spirited run ill let it run while i sit there for a bit. When the timer shuts the car off the turbine housing would be around 900deg (+/-some) which would heat soak into the bearing housing and cook the oil until air cooled it off. By circulating coolant through the bearing housing, temps should stay sub 212 in the housing which i would think would keep the oil cool. If this setup works it will also be nice since i wont be running the car in our attached garage every time i pull it in.

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Old 09-12-2011, 10:02 AM   #184
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Nice work, once again! Very envious of the machinery you have access too!
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Old 09-19-2011, 12:31 AM   #185
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Headlights are re-wired. Didn't get to touch the car much this past week. Made another injector extender (aiming for 1 per week.) Sorry about the slow progress but Ive got to put school and work first unfortunately.. Being broke reminds me why im going through all the trouble of finishing up school in the first place.
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Old 09-19-2011, 01:16 AM   #186
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It befuddles me why I sent you a tuning how-to when your wrenching/fabrication/everything skills are like 10,0000% better than mine.
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Old 09-19-2011, 09:33 AM   #187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yank View Post
...Ive got to put school and work first unfortunately..
That's the most important part of your build thread.
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Old 09-19-2011, 02:35 PM   #188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faeflora View Post
It befuddles me why I sent you a tuning how-to when your wrenching/fabrication/everything skills are like 10,0000% better than mine.
Only thing i have going for me is my ambition. Everything else took research and practice. Your how-to, -> Research phase. Thanks for assisting me in my future bad assness

FYI ill be starting a thread in the mega squirt section when i get close to start-up time. I hope to post all my issues / logs / success with my MS3X there. (aka please help )
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Old 10-02-2011, 11:26 PM   #189
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Making slow slow progress. Got the injector pigtails soldered in and im about 50% done with the ignition coil pigtails. I ended up letting a local welder tig my intake piping. welds looks nice and I've got the hot side installed. I think im going to end up modifying the fuel rail as opposed to making the injector extenders. The extensions are just one more place for failure so by eliminating them i hope to save time and have less of a chance for future leaking issues.
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Old 10-04-2011, 11:52 PM   #190
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nice man keep going
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Old 10-07-2011, 12:08 AM   #191
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So i get out to the shop today and its swarming with wasps. awesome.. after a beer or 2 i got to feeling more comfortable and got to work lol.

Smart little Japanese man.



Ignition and injection harness finished minus the loom. set up for sequential thanks to the Brain.


Im putting all the fuse boxes and relays in the stock ecu location. plenty of room down there. I cut holes in the metal cover so if i need to gain access to the boxes all i need to do is pull down the carpet and floor mat.


This is where i put the IAT. i figure this way if i eventually run meth.. or should i say when.. Ill put the nozzle right after the IC and it will have about a foot of pipe to turn to vapor so the IAT sensor gets a nice reading. Keeping it far away from the throttle body is a good thing as well from what i've read.

Ill be out there again tomorrow. Hopefully my day is a little more productive.
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Old 10-07-2011, 12:55 AM   #192
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Good stuff man, keep going.
You got all the ingredients for a badass setup and I can't wait to see it finished up.
There isn't a single other person I know of running an fe3 with an efr and with your supporting mods I see an awesome powerband in the future.
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Old 10-07-2011, 05:29 PM   #193
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Your oil lines are going to saw through each other soon.
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Old 10-07-2011, 06:41 PM   #194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
Your oil lines are going to saw through each other soon.
x2

I had the same thing on my mind. Slip some silicone or rubber around those lines.
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Old 10-07-2011, 06:48 PM   #195
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^just get rid of that SS braided **** & put in metal hardlines. mcmaster sells tube sleeves/caps & line. go out & buy a 37 flare tool & a line bender & your set. far more durable & looks cleaner.


What COP's are those again????
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Old 10-08-2011, 01:09 AM   #196
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This build is awesome.
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Old 10-08-2011, 02:40 AM   #197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
Your oil lines are going to saw through each other soon.
Ill see what i can do about this.

Thanks for the support guys!
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Old 10-08-2011, 02:44 AM   #198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpt323 View Post
^just get rid of that SS braided **** & put in metal hardlines. mcmaster sells tube sleeves/caps & line. go out & buy a 37 flare tool & a line bender & your set. far more durable & looks cleaner.


What COP's are those again????
Sounds like a great idea seeing as im broke and ive already bought all the stainless lines and AN fittings..

https://www.miataturbo.net/useful-saved-posts-8/upgrading-coil-plugs-all-years-cop-writeup-12704/
Toyota COPs Denso ignition coils.
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Old 10-08-2011, 01:58 PM   #199
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Or slip some coolant hose around the braided lines & zip tie them together around said hose.
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Old 10-08-2011, 02:16 PM   #200
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For posterity.... I'm a Blue Moon fan too. I'm with the other guys - where's that pic with the big-*** hole in the IC piping b/c his SS oil line sawed through it? I went cheap and used rubber hose, but at contact points I wrapped another slit piece around it as M2 suggested. Loving the build man - here's another BM for you!

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