Nope. batch fire. I might try running it in sequential again since i have a good base tune. The guy that helped me get the car started initially said that the cam signal was messing things up so we ditched the cam sensor and we just set it to batch fire and set it to look at the crank position only.

Could the exhaust and intake cam be rotated 180 deg and it run in batch but not in sequential? something with the cam being 180 deg out is the only thing i can see that could possibly be the issue.

 

Blasphemy.

 

Cools. I'll give it another shot in sequential then.

 

dude just make sure your idle cells (like the 3x3 area where your idle would fall) has SAME ve and SAME timing. THEN turn on auto-tune.

i'm pretty sure I idled at like 15:1 with ID1000s in batch on MS2.

and idle control. just disconnect your idle valve until you get it stable. use the idle screw.

 

^Agreed- I just looked at my tune and the idle cells are all virtually the same- and leaner than the subsequent cells in rpm/map.

 

the Idle VE Table is 6x6. Use MS3 to its full potential.

 

I tried setting the car up for sequential again with no luck. the car was doing the same thing as before. cranking firing once or twice and dying with some backfire on occasion. I'll try to post up exactly what im changing to get to sequential. Maybe im doing it wrong.
I have idle set somewhat reasonable for now but still am not 100% happy with it. tried the idle VE table and tried to change the settings and it didn't seem to make any difference even when i added 100 to all the cells.
Finally got the boost control working right. Helps if both sides of the solenoid aren't hooked to ground. running 15 psi according to the megasquirt map sensor now. (prosport gauge in the car reads 17 psi...)
I think the main cause of most of my issues now is fuel pressure related. any change in fuel pressure causes the car to run completely different and it seems to be dropping by ~20 psi over a 40 minute drive. I contacted both fuelab and highflowperformance and hope to find out what is causing this issue.

 

are your injectors wired in the right order?

see this - https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...71/#post910935

 

Just double checked the wiring of the injectors and ignition coils in test mode and they are in firing order. As in A cyl 1, B cyl 3, C cyl 4, D cyl 2.

To setup in sequential i have been:
1) Navigate to Basic / Load Settings then engine and Sequential Settings. Here i change "Sequential on" from off to on and leave angle specifies to end of squirt when it pops up. (double checks firing order abcd 1342) The new configuration settings have an "engine size(cc)" option and "injector size(cc)" and i fill them out 2000, and 1000 respectively. everything else stays the same from batch to sequential on this page.

2) Navigate to the ignition settings and the Ignition Options / Wheel Decoder.
Here i leave the "Spark mode" set to Toothed wheel but change "number of coils" from wasted COP to Coil on plug. I also make sure that "Cam input(if used)" is set to MS3X Cam in and change the "trigger wheel arrangement" from Single wheel with missing tooth to Dual wheel with missing tooth. "Main wheel speed" is set to Crank wheel

That's been it. Maybe i'm missing something.

I think we found the problem with the fuel pressure. I cant believe i didn't notice it before installing but i was shipped a regulator for a carb'd setup on accident. Bottoming out the set screw to get enough pressure should have been a good indicator..

 

well the problem is either in ingition or injecton. so do one at a time - first change to sequential fuel, then to sequential ignition.

sequential fuel has much bigger effect than sequential ignition, anyways. especially with vodka-bottle sized injectors.

edit: if neither works then your cam angle sensor is probably 180* off.

 

How is battery voltage over the course of that 20psi drop?



I personally thought going to sequential ignition was HUGE. Big big change in smoothness.

 

Good idea. I'll try this out when i get the new FPR in. Is there a way to offset the cam angle sensor reading in tuner studio? I know you can do this with the
crank signal but i didnt know about the cam. Maybe this?

"Trigger Angle/Offset - There are three different ways this setting is used:

In Basic Trigger and Trigger Return it specifies the engine angle BTDC that each trigger pulse is received.
In Toothed Wheel it should always be set to zero - use tooth#1 angle instead.
In other modes this setting can make a +/- 20 degree adjustment to the preset timing alignment. "
from:
Megasquirt-3 MS3 Ignition Settings

But im in toothed wheel "it should always be set to zero"

That was the first thing i checked when i started having the issue. With the car on i have a solid 13.4V

 

From here: MS2-Extra Dual Wheel Manual

This will be my next move. My cam angle sensor is non adjustable so that will make things interesting.

 

Yep thats what it was! Just had the car started on sequential settings. Now knowing that the COPs need to be wired in this new configuration does this mean the injector order also needs to change?

**EDIT**
Adding pic for 180deg out of phase test. (changes firing sequence)

 

Yes they do need to be re arranged. Made some jumper wires to test the theory and took it out for a spin. I set the AFR to stoich at idle and switched it back to the way i had it wired and it wouldn't idle nice at all. After i got back to the house i pulled the harness and re arranged the pins where it plugs into the ecu so i didn't have to cut any wires to make the change. Good stuff. I should have a good video up soon. Includes GoPro H2 and external mic which is a little too close to the turbo.

 

 

Holy god is that thing noisy! haha

DOES LIKE!!

 

Hungry monster gobbling up air!

 

Turbo noises > all

car sounds killer, man!

 

god i miss my efr