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Old 09-13-2011, 12:53 PM   #41
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In pic one that's an oil jet. Bent tube bolted on with an banjo bolt that shoots oil at the bottom of the pistons, looks surprising fine for a cooper tube in the middle of all that carnage. The good thing is that our motors are non-interference. The bad thing is that only counts for broken timing belts. All bets are off when the rod breaks, your valves are probably toast in at least one cylinder.
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Old 09-13-2011, 01:44 PM   #42
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Oil squirter in that pic.
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Old 09-30-2011, 11:16 AM   #43
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Started to remove a couple of small items here and there to see if I could get a good look at the carnage for you guys.

It feels a bit like spending a year on a puzzle and the shitty feeling you get when it's time to COMPLETELY-****-IT-UP and put it back into the box.




Ooo a little piece of my oil pan eh?


Mmmm a little hole in my engine eh? (Passenger side)


Another hole in my engine... eh? (Drivers side)


And yes, I can shine a flashlight in one side of my block and it comes out the other


Made some time to pull the engine this past weekend.





Didn't take long to get her out. The damage is truly impressive. The pan is blown away, right side of the block has a softball sized hole and the left has a golf-ball sized hole.
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Old 09-30-2011, 11:44 AM   #44
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This car is so sexy. Looking forward to a new motor in this ****.
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Old 10-05-2011, 11:31 AM   #45
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So I've purchased the Adaptronic ECU. It was second hand and came from a 99 so the harness is incomparable with my car. I used my old XEDE harness to adapt my new ECU for my car without having to splice my factory harness.

Reference Adaptronic Pinout>Cut>Strip>Solder>Heatshink... NEXT! Reference Adaptronic Pinout>Cut>Strip>Solder>Heatshink... NEXT! Reference Adaptronic Pinout>Cut>Strip>Solder>Heatshink... NEXT! Blah.

Not pretty now but wait until I finish. The Adaptronic will actually allow me to use the factory ECU to control my idle valve which is handy for me because I hate tuning idle on a stand alone system. But in order to do this it must see a MAF, O2, and IAT. So I've got to fake those signals by wiring in 1k Resistors and then grounding it.




More updates to come - I'm waiting for a couple of schottky diodes in the mail and I'll get it buttoned up.
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Old 10-06-2011, 02:39 AM   #46
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fap fap fap
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Old 10-06-2011, 11:43 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
Those rods start to deform in the 250rwtq area, and that's about where he was at.
They deform at much less torque when run close to MBT on pump gas, and especially with high c/r, due to high peak cylinder pressures. Mine deformed at 205 tq.
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Old 11-16-2011, 02:16 PM   #48
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Long time no update... I've received my new..ish engine. It's a Japanese 1.8 out of an NA Miata. I wasn't looking for a Japan motor because from my understanding there are no real differences but that's what showed up.




So after some internal debate...haha get it? ...reading and pricing some things out. I've purchased my engine internals and they are as follows:

Pistons: CP Pistons .5mm Oversize: 83.5 mm Bore 9.0 Compression
Rods: Belfab H Beam Rods 600+ HP
Bearings: ACL Main, Thrust and Rod bearings
Head Gasket: OEM Mazda
Hardware: ARP

The only delay is the pistons. 2 weeks out but I'm not in a rush and I still need to dig into the new motor.
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:56 AM   #49
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yup thats an oil tube you can see where it bolts to the block its a piston squirter.

nevermind browser didnt update page properly.
either way im lucky i only took a chunk out of my #3 piston then mine let go.

Kris.
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Old 11-17-2011, 11:13 PM   #50
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Is a metal gasket better than a OEM one? If so i'd use that, no sense in forging the engine and not upgrading everything.
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Old 11-18-2011, 01:58 AM   #51
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Wow, the car came along very well. Very clean. It sucks your motor grenaded :(

Good luck on the rebuilt
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Old 11-28-2011, 12:13 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassmachine View Post
Is a metal gasket better than a OEM one? If so i'd use that, no sense in forging the engine and not upgrading everything.
Not positive and I've still got time to change my mind but from what I've seen the OEM is a good idea.
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Old 11-28-2011, 12:13 PM   #53
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New rods showed up. Still waiting on pistons unfortunately. I tore down the old block in anticipation for machine work. It doesnt look too bad. My new slugs are only .5 over so this should be perfect. Being that the Miata runs an iron block nothing should be too out of order.

Belfab 600+HP rods:


OLD vs NEW.. The stock Miata rods really are some soft ****..


New bearings and thrust washers are here as well..


I've probably got another week until the Pistons show up so stay tuned.
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Old 11-28-2011, 02:16 PM   #54
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Hmmm. I like this thread. Though I'm surprised at only 13.5psi it let go.
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Old 11-28-2011, 04:52 PM   #55
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Mmm.. So look what showed up today.





I'll be dropping the engine off at the machine shop tomorrow.
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:31 PM   #56
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Damn I have the same rods and I forgot how frikken huge they are compared to the factory toothpicks.

MORE BIGGERER TURBOERRRE!
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Old 11-30-2011, 11:49 AM   #57
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Dropped off the pistons for dome and skirt coatings i'll have pictures in awhile.
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Old 11-30-2011, 04:25 PM   #58
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Alright kids. Things are moving along with the quickness. Picked up the pistons and dropped them off with the Block, Rods, Rings, Bearings, Mains, Crank and hardware.

These sons of bitches are pretty:
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Old 12-01-2011, 11:41 AM   #59
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UPDATE: Last night I went and tore the head off of the old block (because I'd like to use it on the new block) and it's all in tact! The thing looks clean! I'll bring it home and gasket match the intake and exhaust sides with a Dremel. I'll have it hot tanked and leak tested but nothing made contact with the piston so I'm a happy guy.
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Old 12-03-2011, 04:24 PM   #60
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This is one of my favorite builds on here, LMK if there is anything you are looking for.
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