eBay radiator is holding up just fine. Again- I'll wait until the first hot day on this setup to confirm- but on my stock bottom end and factory radiator the car would overheat. After installing the radiator my overheating went away.

Spring rates are 392/280.

 

Check here for IM flange:
http://www.weir-tech.com/

Mazda 1.8L BP intake head flange 3/8" mild steel <<<< Mild steel?

You can't weld aluminum to steel. We need an aluminum flange for BP4W heads. And others.

 

ouch. I hope that's a type-o lol

 

Are you referencing the spring rates?

 

He's talking about the useless mild steel intake manifold flange on Weir-tech.

 

correct

the spring rates don't sound bad at all. I remember the guys saying 400/250 is a great combo for a street car. yours are right around that area

 

I'm getting a bit of bounce though. Might be a bad shock.

I get a knock in the rear of the car if I push on the truck lid.... Sounds like a metal on metal thing.

 

Could be a blown shock, but i would guess something was left loose, first.

 

Still toying with WOT shifting:

This is still boost by gear 10PSI - 13PSI and then 19 on up.

 

GOD. IN. HEAVEN.

 

Glorious build thread. Giving me ideas on the new miata. Good thing I'm starting a new higher paying job.

 

Check your engine.

 

So I came home yesterday and this is what I found. I intentionally park way off to the side of my parking lot to avoid other cars parking next to me..


But MMmmm... Look what showed up in the mail today...

 

Can you give a ride report after installing that. Just want to know what you find now in NHV and stiffness both cruising and under load.
Thanks

 

PFF brace is great. I was getting some pretty significant slop in the shifter and what felt like wheel hop but wasn't really. It used to be my diff bouncing around. Now it's solid. My shifts are more precise. I do hear gear noise from the diff but it's actually a pretty nice note and makes me feel like I'm driving a rally car.

I would however recommend using the brace with replacement poly diff mounts - I have poly mounts but they are not installed and the thought of the top of the diff being able to slop around and this brace being the only somewhat solid link, does not sit well with me. This is the same theory as using one solid engine mount on an engine.. Not a good idea.

 

Where did you buy your PPF brace? GoMiata? Oh, and Imma PM you about those lights in a few mins.

 

My car had 240000kms on it and some associated drive train slop so I put in the poly diff mounts. (get a air chisel and you don't even have to drop the diff). That helped a good amount with shifting feel as well. I also notice some additional drive train noise but I don't mind it and really its not too intrusive.

I wonder if that triangle design could be a DIY piece?

 

It could be but most people don't notice that the brace from Beatrush has poly mounts in the design. I purchased steel to make my own brace first and decided against it.


So after reading about the life expectancy of the BEGI s4 Stainless Steel manifold I noticed that they offer a brace to go from the extra hole on the downpipe to the motor mount bolt.

The BEGi mount has an awesome design- looks like a really nice piece. But I decided to make my own.

This is the BEGi:


So I went to the hardware store and picked up this guy:


Obviously this doesn't work so well as is but with a little modification it can be made to offer the same type of support. I welded a nut into one end and a flat shim into the other. This design allows me to just un-thread the motor mount bolt a little bit and slide the brace on.


Painted it with some high temp paint and slapped it in. Should do the trick.

 

The Ace I go to sells those heim joints for $10-$15 each, even in left hand threads. In case those welds fail. BEGI's price is beyond ridiculous.

 

Total cost of this one was 12 bucks.