Building a blonde young beefcake wearing nothing but skimpy shorts named Rocky
03-09-2012, 01:56 PM
#242
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My Miata was featured on MazdaForumz.com. I'm very excite. 
http://www.miataforumz.com/showthread.php?t=785
And my clutch just showed up
http://www.miataforumz.com/showthread.php?t=785
And my clutch just showed up
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03-12-2012, 10:19 AM
#247
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I had the FM level 2 Clutch shipped overnight so I could beat the **** out of the car on Sunday (we had a nice Sunday ok).
The clutch showed up and looked just like any other clutch. At this point I have my doubts but at the same time I'm giving props to the guys at Flyin Miata.
It came with a piece of metal that was foreign to any other clutch job I've done before, so against my every natural man instinct- I read the little piece of paper that came with it. Whew - Turns out it's just a cover for my clutch engagement switch. I wont be using this because it will interfere with my flat foot shifting (and i'm not soft - I can deal with pressing down the clutch pedal to start my car).
Looks like any other ACT clutch - Just painted purple. I was excited that the power capacity of the clutch was rated at what it was because I really didnt want to go with a Pucked clutch. I like to drive my car because it is not a "racecar". I have AC, power windows and power steering. No need to be warming my clutch up and chattering it around town.
I think they want you to put stickers on your car.
Pulled the little guy in for his latest appointment with Dr. Snap-on.
I had a flywheel laying around from the spare engine so I had it turned. However, I forgot that the car had a lightweight flywheel installed so I was in a bit of a pinch. The lightweight one was in really really bad shape. I rigged up a system to turn it myself involving a sleeved bolt, drill with a rubber wheel to keep it rotating and a grinding stone.
You can see it worked out pretty well.
Flywheel and disk went back in without a fuss.
Pressure plate fit just as the one that came off.
After the installation I bled the clutch line and was surprised at the pedal feel. It did indeed engage at the floor but it was not much harder than the ACT that came out. For such a high performing clutch it really did feel nice. If ANYONE says ANYTHING about this being an aggressive feeling clutch they have lost their minds.
I did and you likely will NEED TO ADJUST THE MASTER CLUTCH CYLINDER THROW. It's simple and it's related to the extra throw required by this performance clutch. You'll notice that the engagement point is at the floor sometimes leaving the clutch partially engaged. If you press your clutch to the floor and then try to put your car in a gear and it moves the car, even slightly, this needs to be adjusted.
To adjust the master cylinder, crawl under your already-too-small dash board area and loosen the 12MM nut on the shaft coming out of the firewall. Then rotate (by hand) the actuator shaft. I had to adjust mine nearly all the way out but it cleaned up the slop in my pedal and allowed the clutch to completely disengage.
Break-in and review:
Excellent. From gear one the engagement has been smooth. I put 200 or so miles on it before I started boosting and around the 300 mile mark I was confident that the guy was properly broken in. The idea with clutch break in is not to feather the clutch for easy engagement. This creates more heat and that's not a good thing with these freshly mated materials. Quick engagements and rev matched shifts are key for the first parts of break in. Overall I'm very pleased with the clutch and it seems to be holding the power just fine. Kudos to you Flyin' Miata.
The clutch showed up and looked just like any other clutch. At this point I have my doubts but at the same time I'm giving props to the guys at Flyin Miata.
It came with a piece of metal that was foreign to any other clutch job I've done before, so against my every natural man instinct- I read the little piece of paper that came with it. Whew - Turns out it's just a cover for my clutch engagement switch. I wont be using this because it will interfere with my flat foot shifting (and i'm not soft - I can deal with pressing down the clutch pedal to start my car).
Looks like any other ACT clutch - Just painted purple. I was excited that the power capacity of the clutch was rated at what it was because I really didnt want to go with a Pucked clutch. I like to drive my car because it is not a "racecar". I have AC, power windows and power steering. No need to be warming my clutch up and chattering it around town.
I think they want you to put stickers on your car.
Pulled the little guy in for his latest appointment with Dr. Snap-on.
I had a flywheel laying around from the spare engine so I had it turned. However, I forgot that the car had a lightweight flywheel installed so I was in a bit of a pinch. The lightweight one was in really really bad shape. I rigged up a system to turn it myself involving a sleeved bolt, drill with a rubber wheel to keep it rotating and a grinding stone.
You can see it worked out pretty well.
Flywheel and disk went back in without a fuss.
Pressure plate fit just as the one that came off.
After the installation I bled the clutch line and was surprised at the pedal feel. It did indeed engage at the floor but it was not much harder than the ACT that came out. For such a high performing clutch it really did feel nice. If ANYONE says ANYTHING about this being an aggressive feeling clutch they have lost their minds.
I did and you likely will NEED TO ADJUST THE MASTER CLUTCH CYLINDER THROW. It's simple and it's related to the extra throw required by this performance clutch. You'll notice that the engagement point is at the floor sometimes leaving the clutch partially engaged. If you press your clutch to the floor and then try to put your car in a gear and it moves the car, even slightly, this needs to be adjusted.
To adjust the master cylinder, crawl under your already-too-small dash board area and loosen the 12MM nut on the shaft coming out of the firewall. Then rotate (by hand) the actuator shaft. I had to adjust mine nearly all the way out but it cleaned up the slop in my pedal and allowed the clutch to completely disengage.
Break-in and review:
Excellent. From gear one the engagement has been smooth. I put 200 or so miles on it before I started boosting and around the 300 mile mark I was confident that the guy was properly broken in. The idea with clutch break in is not to feather the clutch for easy engagement. This creates more heat and that's not a good thing with these freshly mated materials. Quick engagements and rev matched shifts are key for the first parts of break in. Overall I'm very pleased with the clutch and it seems to be holding the power just fine. Kudos to you Flyin' Miata.
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03-12-2012, 11:39 AM
#251
its rated at 353lb or whatever it is, so if you hit 400whp your torque will most likely be just above its limit. (which means it probably will hold up for a while, but not very long)
for the time being I think you'll be good though, and its definitely more street friendly than the pucked clutches. had one of these in my green 99 and will probably go with one for my 01
for the time being I think you'll be good though, and its definitely more street friendly than the pucked clutches. had one of these in my green 99 and will probably go with one for my 01
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03-12-2012, 12:47 PM
#252
The FM clutches are not made by Spec or ACT, but by one of the other major manufacturers and to our own unique specifications. There is a sticker on the pressure plate stating that they meet SFI Spec 1.2, but that's not a reflection of the manufacturer.
We do sell ACT clutches for the NC, it's possible that this can cause some confusion. Our pedal pressures are much lighter for the same clamping force and they don't make the same characteristic noise that ACTs can make.
As for the clutch switch override - it's there for the health of your thrust bearing. When you start the car with the clutch pedal down, you're putting a high amount of force on that bearing with no oil pressure to protect it. It's not to make life easier for the driver. Also, it has no effect at all once the car is running, so you can flat shift all you want. We recommend you install it, there are no downsides unless you forget your car is in gear when you hit the key.
We do sell ACT clutches for the NC, it's possible that this can cause some confusion. Our pedal pressures are much lighter for the same clamping force and they don't make the same characteristic noise that ACTs can make.
As for the clutch switch override - it's there for the health of your thrust bearing. When you start the car with the clutch pedal down, you're putting a high amount of force on that bearing with no oil pressure to protect it. It's not to make life easier for the driver. Also, it has no effect at all once the car is running, so you can flat shift all you want. We recommend you install it, there are no downsides unless you forget your car is in gear when you hit the key.
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03-12-2012, 12:53 PM
#253
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The FM clutches are not made by Spec or ACT, but by one of the other major manufacturers and to our own unique specifications. There is a sticker on the pressure plate stating that they meet SFI Spec 1.2, but that's not a reflection of the manufacturer.
We do sell ACT clutches for the NC, it's possible that this can cause some confusion. Our pedal pressures are much lighter for the same clamping force and they don't make the same characteristic noise that ACTs can make.
As for the clutch switch override - it's there for the health of your thrust bearing. When you start the car with the clutch pedal down, you're putting a high amount of force on that bearing with no oil pressure to protect it. It's not to make life easier for the driver. Also, it has no effect at all once the car is running, so you can flat shift all you want. We recommend you install it, there are no downsides unless you forget your car is in gear when you hit the key.
We do sell ACT clutches for the NC, it's possible that this can cause some confusion. Our pedal pressures are much lighter for the same clamping force and they don't make the same characteristic noise that ACTs can make.
As for the clutch switch override - it's there for the health of your thrust bearing. When you start the car with the clutch pedal down, you're putting a high amount of force on that bearing with no oil pressure to protect it. It's not to make life easier for the driver. Also, it has no effect at all once the car is running, so you can flat shift all you want. We recommend you install it, there are no downsides unless you forget your car is in gear when you hit the key.
The only downside of the clutch switch override is that it is incompatible with megasquirt(or at least MS2). The ECU needs to be able to tell when the clutch is engaged. Not like that is a defect with the product or anything.
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03-12-2012, 01:05 PM
#255
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The FM clutches are not made by Spec or ACT, but by one of the other major manufacturers and to our own unique specifications. There is a sticker on the pressure plate stating that they meet SFI Spec 1.2, but that's not a reflection of the manufacturer.
We do sell ACT clutches for the NC, it's possible that this can cause some confusion. Our pedal pressures are much lighter for the same clamping force and they don't make the same characteristic noise that ACTs can make.
As for the clutch switch override - it's there for the health of your thrust bearing. When you start the car with the clutch pedal down, you're putting a high amount of force on that bearing with no oil pressure to protect it. It's not to make life easier for the driver. Also, it has no effect at all once the car is running, so you can flat shift all you want. We recommend you install it, there are no downsides unless you forget your car is in gear when you hit the key.
We do sell ACT clutches for the NC, it's possible that this can cause some confusion. Our pedal pressures are much lighter for the same clamping force and they don't make the same characteristic noise that ACTs can make.
As for the clutch switch override - it's there for the health of your thrust bearing. When you start the car with the clutch pedal down, you're putting a high amount of force on that bearing with no oil pressure to protect it. It's not to make life easier for the driver. Also, it has no effect at all once the car is running, so you can flat shift all you want. We recommend you install it, there are no downsides unless you forget your car is in gear when you hit the key.
Although - I could wire up a relay to my "starter" wire coming from my ignition switch. I'd send ground to the receiving side of that switch whenever I'm cranking.
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03-12-2012, 01:19 PM
#256
Correct, there are two switches on the clutch. One is used for the starter and ONLY the starter. If I remember correctly, the starter signal goes from the ignition switch, through the clutch switch and to the solenoid. It's not a sophisticated circuit.
The other is for indicating neutral to the ECU, which is used by the stock ECU, the MS, the Hydra, the Link and any other ECU that can do a decent job of running the engine.
Unless you are trying to engage the starter while shifting, overriding the starter switch will have no effect on anything.
The other is for indicating neutral to the ECU, which is used by the stock ECU, the MS, the Hydra, the Link and any other ECU that can do a decent job of running the engine.
Unless you are trying to engage the starter while shifting, overriding the starter switch will have no effect on anything.
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03-12-2012, 02:49 PM
#258
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Correct, there are two switches on the clutch. One is used for the starter and ONLY the starter. If I remember correctly, the starter signal goes from the ignition switch, through the clutch switch and to the solenoid. It's not a sophisticated circuit.
The other is for indicating neutral to the ECU, which is used by the stock ECU, the MS, the Hydra, the Link and any other ECU that can do a decent job of running the engine.
Unless you are trying to engage the starter while shifting, overriding the starter switch will have no effect on anything.
The other is for indicating neutral to the ECU, which is used by the stock ECU, the MS, the Hydra, the Link and any other ECU that can do a decent job of running the engine.
Unless you are trying to engage the starter while shifting, overriding the starter switch will have no effect on anything.
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03-12-2012, 03:47 PM
#259
Our clutch switch override will not fit over the ECU/cruise switch. It only fits over the starter interlock. Skidude, I think you're mixed up with what happened. The starter switch isn't involved in the cruise control. The diagrams don't lie!
I have seen a number of people try to build their own starter interlock by cutting the wires off the switch and splicing them together. This works perfectly - unless you cut the wires for the wrong switch. Then you end up with the cruise control not working properly and odd idle behavior.
I have seen a number of people try to build their own starter interlock by cutting the wires off the switch and splicing them together. This works perfectly - unless you cut the wires for the wrong switch. Then you end up with the cruise control not working properly and odd idle behavior.
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03-12-2012, 03:58 PM
#260
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I would so much want a FM happy meal - because my 3 puck ACT with the Fidanza flywheel makes me crazy with all that shattering and on/off drivability. Damb those bloody stupid shipping costs to Germany.
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