Total cost of the heim joint version should be around $40, plus whatever it costs to build/buy the threaded rod. I found those heim joints at my local Ace yesterday and thought "cool, I could make a brace or two out of these", but didn't look any harder for the compatible threaded tube with left threads on one end and right threads on the other. I assume/hope it's in one of those drawers. Can't be more than $20 though, so hopefully less than $60. Just another option if you want it a tad stronger.

So where the ---- does BEGI get $150 from?

 

Just spent 2 hours reading this thread from the top...TOO MUCH WIN

 

Ran into another M6 the other night
Messed up the link.. Thank you viper

 

Gotcha back fellow MFZ car of the month nominee

 

effin awesome
whats up with the cel?

that would annoy the crap out of me

 

CEL is probably related to the factory ECU not being connected to the engine

And this dude commented on the video.. said he had traction issues on this run... I call BS but the other runs we had I was not brake boosting and we were neck and neck..

 

Suggestions on a clutch? Wasted mine last night... Eventually the car is getting a 30r so something that can take the power...?

 

949 twin disc ceramic. A real man's clutch. Great for daily driving.

Do it once do it right do it white.

 

That much power, I would also suggest a twin ceramic. If you want to get super crazy, there is also twin carbons out there, but that's baller status.

 

http://www2.advancedclutch.com/produ...search_btn.y=0

Not baller status here. But this clutch looks pretty solid for my use.

 

That is exactly what I had in my 00.
I hated it in traffic, once it heated up it was like a switch and was impossible to drive smoothly. Worked great when it was cold (1st 30 or so minutes of driving). Backing up it chattered like a ****. I probably won't get one of those again, but others seem to have had better experiences with theirs.

 

I would HIGHLY suggest either 949's clutch or nothing "pucked" or ceramic. Both of which would be a bitch for daily driving. That limits your options since you'd need a strong pp to hold an organic disc of any type. How much tqs do with think he's making?

 

I'm making 290 ft lbs at the wheel now but I'm tuning for meth this week and might swap a 30r on the car in a month or so.

I also don't daily the car. That doesn't mean I don't care how much of a bitch it is to drive. Let me do some homework on this clutch. Sometimes it's worth it to go with the bigger ticket items.

 

I had that clutch for a couple thousand miles with a 9lb fidanza flywheel. I thought it was pretty good. Not too different than the organic disc. I guess it did chatter/skip a bit more at low speeds.

The 949 twin ceramic clutch is quite a bit more "brutal" than the ACT. Yes, I do have to slip it a good deal more from a stop to avoid megachatter. There is some specific technique you can use though to make it pull out without too much chatter. It took me a few hundred miles to figure that out. It is very fun though and it does make me feel like my car is a racecar yay.

 

Competition Clutch 10045-1620?

 

All pucked discs are going to pretty much act the same.

I had an ACT HD Organic in my first Miata, and it wasn't terrible, but I had the same clutch in a DSM, and it was a miserable piece of ---- with endless engagement issues.

Maybe call and ask Southbend Clutch about a Feramic?

 

What about the XT pp with the SS disk? or will that still not hold down enough torque?

 

It's going to be super hard on the thrust bearings, but it will probably hold the torque...

 

Just ordered the FM2 kit.

 

Good choice. I've got it. The pedal is lighter and no harder to drive than the stock clutch.