Curly's boring mt.net circle of life completion (Turbo->N/A conversion)
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I'll address these one at a time.
The mixing manifold, which is what the hard line under the stock manifold goes into, was flipped 180* with a 90* hose and piece of straight pipe used to connect it to the lower radiator outlet. The old hole where the pipe entered needs a plate welded on top.
In that straight piece of pipe used I inserted a T connection to connect the old heater line.
You can see that T connection here:
The stock water line outlet was pulled out, tapped for 1/8 NPT and a hose barb threaded in for the turbo coolant feed.
I found the T25 in the classifieds here.
Once you're above 3,000 rpm, which is basically any time cruising around the street or on the track, the boost builds almost immediately. Unless you're bashing your foot down, it builds pretty much just as fast as you apply the throttle.
Not sure what you're asking about with the boost threshold question. It's at 5psi by 2800rpms, 10psi by 3200.
The mixing manifold, which is what the hard line under the stock manifold goes into, was flipped 180* with a 90* hose and piece of straight pipe used to connect it to the lower radiator outlet. The old hole where the pipe entered needs a plate welded on top.
In that straight piece of pipe used I inserted a T connection to connect the old heater line.
You can see that T connection here:
The stock water line outlet was pulled out, tapped for 1/8 NPT and a hose barb threaded in for the turbo coolant feed.
I found the T25 in the classifieds here.
Once you're above 3,000 rpm, which is basically any time cruising around the street or on the track, the boost builds almost immediately. Unless you're bashing your foot down, it builds pretty much just as fast as you apply the throttle.
Not sure what you're asking about with the boost threshold question. It's at 5psi by 2800rpms, 10psi by 3200.
i had a look but im not sure how to leave props??one other question i had... is that a standard t25 wastegate actuator?? is it good for 15 psi? i looked through your thread so if the info is here already i apologise
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Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 15,192
Total Cats: 1,398
From: Oregon City, OR
Yeah, that's the standard one that came with the turbo. Could probably be upgraded, but I haven't had any issues with it yet. Haven't had it up to 15psi yet. I ran 7 for a while, then 9.5, right now I'm just barely over 10.
You leave props with the little +0- thing at the very bottom right corner of a post.
You leave props with the little +0- thing at the very bottom right corner of a post.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 15,192
Total Cats: 1,398
From: Oregon City, OR
Ok, speaking of which, I had a planned road that I'd do my 3rd gear pulls to compare old 2.5+cat to Abe's 3" nocat, but it's a bit of an uphill. So in order to make it match my dyno run of 155hp, I have to set my car's weight to 2800lbs, plus it adds my weight of 185lbs.
Should I find a different (flatter) road?
And before anyone asks, I'm not doing 4th gear pulls unless I'm on the dyno or on a track.
Should I find a different (flatter) road?
And before anyone asks, I'm not doing 4th gear pulls unless I'm on the dyno or on a track.
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I would find a flat road so that you do not have to manipulate it as much. However, it really doesn't matter as a tool of comparison either way as long as everything besides the exhaust remains constant.
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^this
If you are not going to do it in a 1:1 gear, then don't worry about the incline. If you can find somewhere to pull in your 1:1 gear, then do that, so it can be posted in the "i want your spool numbers" thread.
Otherwise, all you need is to log from the same place each time for comparison sake.
If you are not going to do it in a 1:1 gear, then don't worry about the incline. If you can find somewhere to pull in your 1:1 gear, then do that, so it can be posted in the "i want your spool numbers" thread.
Otherwise, all you need is to log from the same place each time for comparison sake.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 15,192
Total Cats: 1,398
From: Oregon City, OR
Photo dump time!
The packaged as it arrived. I was sleeping and the doorbell rang at 10:07. My phone buzzed with the email from Fedex saying my package was delivered right when I heard the truck's engine start up again. Technology.
Opened!
Magnaflow Man
I should hope not. Contents were indeed 3".
Stickers!
Test pipe.
Midpipe.
And the (nearly) assembled unit.
Endorsed by Chip Foose and Sticker-over-face Man.
Here's a little detail you don't know about until it arrives. The rubber exhaust hangers are secured with three weld blobs.
Also, this being my first V-band, apparently there's a metal "o-ring" inbetween the flanges. Who knew.
A comparison of Magnaflow's welds vs. Abe's. Abe wins.
This exhaust, it's for sale.
Installed. This is as of 11:45am, so a total of 98 minutes from sleeping to a finished installation. This was with the car on the ground to start with, and a break to make the GF coffee and breakfast. And yes, I'm a little worried about bumper-tip clearance. There's about 1/16-1/8 inch clearance there.
And another note, doesn't look like this will work with SafeRacer's SM tow hook, so I'll switch it to the other side. I'll have to bolt it to the outside of the driver's side, which means getting longer bolts since that side has non-threaded holes. Something to keep in mind.
The packaged as it arrived. I was sleeping and the doorbell rang at 10:07. My phone buzzed with the email from Fedex saying my package was delivered right when I heard the truck's engine start up again. Technology.
Opened!
Magnaflow Man
I should hope not. Contents were indeed 3".
Stickers!
Test pipe.
Midpipe.
And the (nearly) assembled unit.
Endorsed by Chip Foose and Sticker-over-face Man.
Here's a little detail you don't know about until it arrives. The rubber exhaust hangers are secured with three weld blobs.
Also, this being my first V-band, apparently there's a metal "o-ring" inbetween the flanges. Who knew.
A comparison of Magnaflow's welds vs. Abe's. Abe wins.
This exhaust, it's for sale.
Installed. This is as of 11:45am, so a total of 98 minutes from sleeping to a finished installation. This was with the car on the ground to start with, and a break to make the GF coffee and breakfast. And yes, I'm a little worried about bumper-tip clearance. There's about 1/16-1/8 inch clearance there.
And another note, doesn't look like this will work with SafeRacer's SM tow hook, so I'll switch it to the other side. I'll have to bolt it to the outside of the driver's side, which means getting longer bolts since that side has non-threaded holes. Something to keep in mind.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 15,192
Total Cats: 1,398
From: Oregon City, OR
No vids yet, but dyno comparison.
Here's my 2.5" exhaust, with the weight adjusted to roughly equal the horsepower I got at the real dyno:
[IMG]nevermind[ /IMG]
photobucket is down.
I'll sum up though. I adjusted the weight of my car to 2800+185 driver, and got 154hp and 160 ft/lbs (to match my real dyno numbers). I touched nothing but removed the exhaust post downpipe and bolted up Abe's 3" test pipe, midpipe, and muffler.
Same road, same setup, same gear, roughly the same ambient temperature.
This got me 175hp and 172ft/lbs. The lines are nearly identical until 3500rpms (a LOT lower than I thought) when the 3" pulls away and is roughly 8hp higher until 4300rpms, when the 3" takes off even more. By 5000rpms I'm 21 hp higher, and finish there, with an extra 12ft/lbs.
Part of this power jump is due to boost creep. The 2.5" run was a max of 8.4psi, where the 3" (again, without touching my MBC) creeped to 10.0.
The real dyno with my 2.5" exhaust was a max of 10.7 psi, and netted 155/148. I'll most likely tune for a (creeped) max of 12, and hopefully jump on a real dyno again soon.
Here's my 2.5" exhaust, with the weight adjusted to roughly equal the horsepower I got at the real dyno:
[IMG]nevermind[ /IMG]
photobucket is down.
I'll sum up though. I adjusted the weight of my car to 2800+185 driver, and got 154hp and 160 ft/lbs (to match my real dyno numbers). I touched nothing but removed the exhaust post downpipe and bolted up Abe's 3" test pipe, midpipe, and muffler.
Same road, same setup, same gear, roughly the same ambient temperature.
This got me 175hp and 172ft/lbs. The lines are nearly identical until 3500rpms (a LOT lower than I thought) when the 3" pulls away and is roughly 8hp higher until 4300rpms, when the 3" takes off even more. By 5000rpms I'm 21 hp higher, and finish there, with an extra 12ft/lbs.
Part of this power jump is due to boost creep. The 2.5" run was a max of 8.4psi, where the 3" (again, without touching my MBC) creeped to 10.0.
The real dyno with my 2.5" exhaust was a max of 10.7 psi, and netted 155/148. I'll most likely tune for a (creeped) max of 12, and hopefully jump on a real dyno again soon.
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