you can run low psi cause there is a lot of air in those tires vs miata weight.
also if you don't know, you can register for 2nd slot on sat. autocross. so instead of 6 runs you get 12. I'm doing it - figure I'm driving to there might as well make use of my time

 

No play in rack.

I won't be able to make it tomorrow AM :(

Good news though is that finally, after days of suffering and fruitless troubleshooting and failiure, MY ******* HYDRAMIST IS WORKING PROPERLY! All the failsafe systems work as they should and the trim maps switch instantly.

Big thank you to FM and Jeremy and Bill for coming through and getting my system to work. As I mentioned before, I sent my Hydramist back to England for daddy Aquamist to look at it and it still wouldn't work. FM agreed to swap out my nonfunctional system for one that they had working in one of their cars. Note that I bought the system almost 4 years ago (but didn't install it until the end of last year). They legitimately could have told me to kiss my *** but they didn't. Big thanks to them for going above and beyond.

Since I have my new setup in the works, I am not going to tune it with meth until my big rig arrives. I am just going to spray some washer fluid and run a 2-5 degrees more timing but nothing too crazy. Plan is to street tune based on logging AFR, timing, EGT, and knock readout. It will be easy to do back to back comparisons of "WI with trims" and "no WI and trims" just by turning the WI system on and off with a button press. My butt dyno should sense something. Still gotta find a good place to do endless 4th gear 120mph pulls though.

 

load bearing dyno!

 

Yeah, what he said.

Soooo what did you end up installing wrong with the aquamist that FM help you figure out?

 

Wasn't my error with the hydramist. The gauge pod is responsible for montioring flow and tank level and it monitored but did not map switch. Also the relay in the junction box was not toggling.

In troubleshooting it I did learn how to use a voltometer. Finally. Winninneh meh blah.

My butt bears big loads all the time. Self calibrating!

 

Dear diary.

Today I reattached my groundfx that my MT DRs partially ripped off while my car was squatting. 3M adhesive promoter is the bizness. I also tidied up my engine bay sensor (flow sensor, high speed valve, oil pressure, oil temp, water temp sheesh) wiring for the 6th time in 3 months.

I have not done my WI street tuning yet.

 

You're lame.
I didn't make it on saturday either cause my car was spraying hot coolant from the heater core all over my precious feet. I ghetto-fixed it and and ran on sunday. I sucked badly but it was still worth it.

July 9/10 is the same deal. Capital Driving Club on saturday, Mercedes club on Sunday. Same place.


compressing 440/300 springs like a boss.

 

Started messing around with WI on the road today. It works. I spray, and AFRs richen up. I'm just using washer fluid now while I get the hang of setting it up. Under boost, my exhaust gas now smells like washer fluid :| The aquamist gauge is actually pretty darn cool- it has a LED bar readout that shows the rate of flow so it moves as I ramp up flow with boost. Vegas style.

Problem with tuning though. My AIT sensor gets heatsoaked like mad while being parked and ******* with the maps so fuel is trimmed incorrectly. The difference between 11.7 and 12.5 AFR is about 7% so a 3% enrichment really ***** things up while I try to set up my WI auxilliary map trim. Tomorrow I will visit Lowes racing and try to find some parts to relocate my AIT sensor to my coldside IC exit pipe, Shuiendspec style.

Overally, I am very pleased about WI working. I will target 12-12.5AFR and run something like 27*@20psi@8000RPM. With 25psi I should be sitting at right around the CFM capabilities of my BEGI S5. Should be a jump from the 320/330ish HP I am at now to 400ish. Nice n safe with WI too FTW. I'll wire in my dual stage MBC too so it will cut down to 20psi when I run out of water.

I was researching WI and found this great relevant quote about street tuning WI haha.

https://www.miataturbo.net/showpost....9&postcount=16

 

Just drill and tap your intercooler end tank, it's easily thick enough. That's where mine is.

 

Already got a WI bung there which I may use for a fifth nozzle pre-AIT sensor for accurate trims when I spray meth.

 

You're using a GM sensor presumably? Get a ford one. Plastic body. No heatsoak.

 

Thank you for the recommendation. Unfortunately, I already have my new one in hand.

 

No heatsoak or less heatsoak? I haven't heard of these new ford iat sensors. Is this some new **** us old farts don't know yet?

 

I can't recall what they're from. A bunch of economy cars ran 'em. They're plastic so almost no heatsoak.

 

the GM one is emcompassed in plastic, it's just molded onto a brass fitting to screw in.

 

Correct. The ford one is ALL plastic

 

tap the manifold?

 

The issue with heatsoak is actually caused by the BEGI sensor mount design. They have a brass sleeve mounted to the steel pipe. The sensor screws into the sleeve and the sensor bulb is not exposed to the airstream. It is in the sleeve. Sleece heatsoaks and I assume warms the air sitting inside it for the fail.

 

You just need to move it to a different location in the charge piping. Where it is sitting is the same problem they have on the LS1. After you run it for a while it heat soaks from the motor and the radiator heat. If you move it to the inter cooler or just before or after in the charge piping preferably just after the inter cooler would be best.

 

/\ true
intercooler end tank is your best location IMO. just move the w/i a tiny bit downstream of that. ait sensor placement will have a much more important effect on your car running right daily, so I'd make its placement correct priority#1