They are not any stronger. They are simply lower cr (you'll notice the obvious lack of a "hump" in the middle of the slug compared to the 99+ pistons) giving you more det resistance. Exclusively on e85 it would be counter productive, but if there's a chance youll track it or flog it on pump gas I'd probably go with the lower cr.

 

Thanks Vlad. Assuming the pistons/block look good I'm gonna rock the 94 shortblock and pistons for now. It will be tracked, albeit very occasionally, and will possibly need pump gas for longer trips where e85 availability is questionable.

The motor in my car has more miles on it too, so that's a plus for the 94. We shall see what she looks like and go from there. I'll actually have a 99 shortblock laying around I might do a mild build up on as well, then I'll have a semi built motor in the car, and a semi built backup. Or maybe the 99 will hang out for a while in my garage and get fully built eventually. hmmmmmmm.

Going to disassemble some engines this weekend, the 94 BP i'm rebuilding - AND the ej22e that tossed a timing belt and ate some valves. Here's hoping I find some good news.

What do you guys think about a gt2860? Starting to lean towards a real garrett. 2860 should be perfect for my 260-300whp goals, no?

 

Its what I'm using this time around too

 

Honest question: If you're shooting for 300whp max on E85, why not go 2560? that'd get you there with quicker spool. Guess the price difference isn't much though to step on up to a 2860 and then you've got more headroom. Amirite?

 

*edit: nvm wrong thread, I'm retarded lol

*edit: if he's honest with himself and really stops at 300, yeah you're probably right

 

You know guys, I'm just telling you guys my goals are 300 - that way i don't feel like too much of a loser when I come up short. END GOALS would be whatever the 6 speed can handle, because eventually I'll get one. So 330-350whp maybe one day? For now with the 5 speed, 260-300whp is the current goal.

2560 is on my mind too, but i really like the idea of the top end like dems old setup, or pdextas.

Keep in mind guys, I live at 7200 feet. Barometric pressure is only around 76KPA, so it literally takes 2-3lbs of boost just to get me up to around 100kpa. For instance most people can spin tiny t25's to 14-15psi, mine wont make or hold over 11, no matter what i've tried.

Thin air is a bitch, so keep that in mind. I think 300whp might be pushing it on the 2560 with my altitude. I could be wrong though.

 

Then get the bigger snail like a boss

 

That's a great point I hadn't thought of. Most of these guys running 300 ish whp are down at low elevation with more humidity so that wee turbo can make lots of boost. Being all high and dry like you, the bigger snail is probably the way to go.

 

Yeah, my old greddy setup on 15psi or so tapped out at around 200whp with no corrections. Of course the dyno sheet they gave me was corrected and said 245whp, but we all know that's just a lie to make you feel like your peen is bigger than it actually is.

I want close to 300whp UNCORRECTED. I'm sure by the time they add their correction factor on top of that it will say 350whp or something silly like that, but i dont care about corrected numbers. I want actual power

 

OKay, next serious question for you guys. be honest with me.

MS1 + hi rez code + dw 800's. It runs GREAT on my current setup, completely happy with the ms1 for now.

Now my question is can I run my MS1 off the standard CAS setup and safely make 260-300whp on e85? I'm thinking it should be okay, especially with the help of e85 and its magical det resistance. I'm hoping i can get away with my ms1 for my next step in power. I DO want a ms3 eventually, but just trying to balance my budget for this project and it would be nice to stick with my current computer.

 

7200ft? Yeah, that's cruising altitude for light aircraft around these parts, haha! You could likely use a 2876.

 

Making power is the easy part. Running flawless at all times and being super efficient in the process is what you pay the big bux for with the MS3x/etc. So yeah, you can make 300 on the ms1.

 

Haha, yip. I'm thinking 2860 should still give me decent spool and acceptable mid range. Gotta keep in mind though, thinner air ALSO will hurt your spool by a very noticeable amount as well, so too big and you will really be hurting. I've done some research and it looks like a 2860 might be the sweet spot. Also leaning towards genuine dual ball bearing because of the whole spool thing.

This is what i wanted to hear. The car already runs and drives well enough to DD for me, it's not perfect and it probably never will be with the MS1. Idle is great, cruise holds perfect AFRs, wot always dives down to 11.5 afr like it should, no part throttle stumbles or anything. My buddy with a 570whp bugeye was very impressed driving my car, said it did everything better than his. He's on the OLD 2003 wrx ecu though, i know those are much more crude and have lower rez. He's planning on standalone soon enough.

I dream of ms3, sequential fuel, converting to a 32 tooth trigger wheel, getting rid of wasted spark, etc. - BUT that is pretty low down on the priority list right now, because race car. If i had a priority list it would be

1) engine rebuild
2) biggar turbo
3) paint/body
4) upgrade the EMS and work on making everything more efficient and flawless running.

One step at a time .

 

I'd say swap #3 and 4 on your priority list..... and BTW they can wrap cars for way less then paint these days, it gonna get ding and scrape on the track anyway.

 

Who is they? Wraps are $1500-$3000 around here. A cheap paintjob is $600-800.

 

Yeah, and I'd like to get some baller suspension parts eventually too. However I just gotta improve the car one step at a time as I see fit. I'm sure my steps to achieve the car I want are different from yours, or anyone elses, but that's what makes it my car .

Pretty much exactly this. My paint job should cost me around $500 + a ton of labor. My dad will paint the car for me, because he has experience doing so and can lay down some nice even coats, AND has all the equipment. I'll be putting in the labor to sand/prime/sand/fill/prime/repeat, so it will mostly be really time consuming. Maybe next summer? I'll see if I can get my motor/turbo setup where I want it first.

 

HP numbers are teh dumb.

Where the torque at?

 

The car makes amazing torque now. Sadly I want topend again, 200whp just is not enough.

New setup with a ball bearing 2860 should still make pretty awesome torque though, just a bit higher in the revs.

 

My car's going on a real dyno the 26th with upped boost and silly tune. Just because it's $50 for 3 pulls. We'll see how flat my torque curve really is.
That's what i'm all about now, really.

 

2560 right? If i were closer to sea level that would be my choice without a doubt. No way I'm making 300whp at my altitude on one though, and I'd really like to see near 300.

Also I'm not going to lie. I know this is blasphemy, but in some way i really miss the way my old 1.6 had topend pull. The car is just as fast now and has a ton of torque, but the feel of the old setup was fun in its own way with the topend rush. I want that feeling, but i want the car to actually be fast

Maybe I'll still consider a 2560, but I've kinda got a hardon for bigger turbos right now, and want to give one a shot for once.