Fireindc's attempt to build a decent miata. (the search for more torque).
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,705
Total Cats: 904
From: Taos, New mexico
Haha, thanks - yeah that IS what i meant - good catch.
I don't want to start too small, but if i go too big I sure cannot go smaller. I guess the best way would be to pick up a gauge, start small and make it bigger until i have enough oil pressure. Not sure if i can find the fittings and gauge locally though, since i live in the boonies.
I don't want to start too small, but if i go too big I sure cannot go smaller. I guess the best way would be to pick up a gauge, start small and make it bigger until i have enough oil pressure. Not sure if i can find the fittings and gauge locally though, since i live in the boonies.
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,705
Total Cats: 904
From: Taos, New mexico
I'm not sure on that one. It's just a standard sr20 t25, which apparently came with an oem restrictor fitting that I'm missing. From reading on the 240 forums it sounds like i should use a .60 restrictor.
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,705
Total Cats: 904
From: Taos, New mexico
So, been dicking with the car here and there. Got some interior parts re assembled and the carpet cut around the rollbar. Got a bunch of tuning done, ended up having to turn off EGO/accell enrichments and keep it in closed loop to finally get my fuel map smooooooth as butter. Will be re enabling these things soon now that the cruise fuel map is so nice. Perfect 11.7-11.9 afr in boost, blah blah blah.
Got the fan issue figured out. Ended up being a stuck a/c relay along with mesed up MS setting, and idiot me had unplugged the a/c fan alltogether since the fan was on all the time. This caused confusion when unplugging the a/c relay during my testing since my settings in MS were ALSO wrong (i had neglected to see that I'm supposed to use temperature +40 degs when setting it, and had it set to come on at 190 instead of 230. This caused the fan to come on around 150degs.
Anyways with all that worked out I'm happy to move on to the next issue(s).
Thing still smokes though, no restrictor yet. The thing will be here on monday. I'm 90% sure it's the turbo causing the smoke for the following reasons.
1)never smokes when cold, ever. Revving, boosting, etc.
2)When hot, even if i just let it idle there until its been at operating temp for say 10 mins or so, it will begin to smoke from the exhaust a steady amount. It will eventually smoke out my garage.
3)After doing a wot pull through all the gears, if i pull over and pop the hood the CHRA is wet and smoking considerably.
Here's hoping the restrictor will do work and fix my issue, if not I guess I'm on the hunt for a turbo or have to rebuild this one. I'll be happy when this thing stops smoking so I can focus on switching to e85, and playing with getting EBC working as per hornetballs writeup. (can't wait to try and get my ms1 working with the EBC, lol.
Got the fan issue figured out. Ended up being a stuck a/c relay along with mesed up MS setting, and idiot me had unplugged the a/c fan alltogether since the fan was on all the time. This caused confusion when unplugging the a/c relay during my testing since my settings in MS were ALSO wrong (i had neglected to see that I'm supposed to use temperature +40 degs when setting it, and had it set to come on at 190 instead of 230. This caused the fan to come on around 150degs.
Anyways with all that worked out I'm happy to move on to the next issue(s).
Thing still smokes though, no restrictor yet. The thing will be here on monday. I'm 90% sure it's the turbo causing the smoke for the following reasons.
1)never smokes when cold, ever. Revving, boosting, etc.
2)When hot, even if i just let it idle there until its been at operating temp for say 10 mins or so, it will begin to smoke from the exhaust a steady amount. It will eventually smoke out my garage.
3)After doing a wot pull through all the gears, if i pull over and pop the hood the CHRA is wet and smoking considerably.
Here's hoping the restrictor will do work and fix my issue, if not I guess I'm on the hunt for a turbo or have to rebuild this one. I'll be happy when this thing stops smoking so I can focus on switching to e85, and playing with getting EBC working as per hornetballs writeup. (can't wait to try and get my ms1 working with the EBC, lol.
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,705
Total Cats: 904
From: Taos, New mexico
Update.. .60 restrictor in. Smoking potentially fixed! Will update after I get some miles on it and have someone follow me. For now I was not able to recreate the smoking that was happening even when trying.
First off, awesome thread man! I recently bought my 93 Mariner Blue and definitely like what you've done with yours. I'm still a Miata n00b but what spoiler is in this picture?

I'm definitely a fan of them and would like one myself
I'm definitely a fan of them and would like one myself
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,705
Total Cats: 904
From: Taos, New mexico
Quick update, smoking seems fixed by the .60 restrictor. I do have the same issue i had with my old setup though, smelling a strong oil smell after extended periods in boost. For instance it won't do it on a quick 1-2, or 2-3 pull, but if i do a long pull over 120mph or so I'll get a strong smell of burning oil in the cabin.
Maybe I'm still burning **** off the turbo, maybe I'm burning it out the exhaust and can't see it (but why would it smell in the cabin?), or maybe its my VTA catch can.
Almost NO oil accumulated in the catch can.
I'm still VERY happy with the car how it is now, just working out small bugs.
Maybe I'm still burning **** off the turbo, maybe I'm burning it out the exhaust and can't see it (but why would it smell in the cabin?), or maybe its my VTA catch can.
Almost NO oil accumulated in the catch can.
I'm still VERY happy with the car how it is now, just working out small bugs.
give it some time, but you should not be smelling any oil or exhaust fumes.
the only time mine would would be when a. the turbo was over-oiled or b. the motor was blowing-by from poor rings.
the only time mine would would be when a. the turbo was over-oiled or b. the motor was blowing-by from poor rings.
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,705
Total Cats: 904
From: Taos, New mexico
I think you guys are right, the turbo is still smoking a little. I saw it today when popping the hood after some hard runs, still obviously smoking from the CHRA, but barely now. Before it would literally ploom out from under the hood, now I had to look very closely to see smoke coming off it.
I was also able to re-create the exhaust smoking at idle issue, came home after a long drive at let it idle. It started smoking slightly at idle, but NOTHING like it was doing before (which was almost smokescreen like), this time it was barely noticable but a steady smoking from the exhaust.
I think either
1) Oil residue still in the turbo/exhaust burning off.
2) It needs a slightly smaller restrictor. I went exactly .060.
3) The turbo needs a rebuild, or i should upgrade.
I'm going to drive it a bit more before further restricting it, but I may need to do so (judging from the CHRA continuing to smoke, which i assume is NOT normal.. lol)
When i did a compression test on this motor before pulling it from the donor the wet and dry tests gave me almost identical results. If this motor has a weak point, i don't think it would be the rings.
I was also able to re-create the exhaust smoking at idle issue, came home after a long drive at let it idle. It started smoking slightly at idle, but NOTHING like it was doing before (which was almost smokescreen like), this time it was barely noticable but a steady smoking from the exhaust.
I think either
1) Oil residue still in the turbo/exhaust burning off.
2) It needs a slightly smaller restrictor. I went exactly .060.
3) The turbo needs a rebuild, or i should upgrade.
I'm going to drive it a bit more before further restricting it, but I may need to do so (judging from the CHRA continuing to smoke, which i assume is NOT normal.. lol)
When i did a compression test on this motor before pulling it from the donor the wet and dry tests gave me almost identical results. If this motor has a weak point, i don't think it would be the rings.
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 5,718
Total Cats: 830
From: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Take hood off, mount camera in engine (gopro works well with fisheye), do 0 to run out of gear in 5th pull.
Video.
This may rule out seeing oil on the outside. Which i'm betting it's from. If it was burning inside, would you smell it in the car??
Video.
This may rule out seeing oil on the outside. Which i'm betting it's from. If it was burning inside, would you smell it in the car??
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,705
Total Cats: 904
From: Taos, New mexico
Great idea Erat, but I already know for a FACT that the CHRA is smoking, and it's noticeably damp with oil from seapage. I know the drain line is unobstructed, and i have both VC vents running to a VTA catch can, so crankcase pressure isn't an issue.
I just stepped the restrictor down to a .055 instead of the .060 and will be keeping an eye on it. How long do you guys think it should take before all the oil is burnt off the CHRA on the turbo and out of the exhaust?
The plan at this point is to step the restrictor down until it stops smoking, but i'm fairly sure it just needs a rebuild and cannot hold the high pressures like it should. The smoking has gotten way, WAY lesser as I've added restrictors - both from the exhaust and the CHRA itself. So I'm confident I'm moving in the right direction.
I'm also on the hunt for a s14/s15 turbo which is closer to a 2560 in size.
I just stepped the restrictor down to a .055 instead of the .060 and will be keeping an eye on it. How long do you guys think it should take before all the oil is burnt off the CHRA on the turbo and out of the exhaust?
The plan at this point is to step the restrictor down until it stops smoking, but i'm fairly sure it just needs a rebuild and cannot hold the high pressures like it should. The smoking has gotten way, WAY lesser as I've added restrictors - both from the exhaust and the CHRA itself. So I'm confident I'm moving in the right direction.
I'm also on the hunt for a s14/s15 turbo which is closer to a 2560 in size.
lol if you really think after all this time and all these pulls its just residual oil burning off, you're high.....Or you must have poured like 3 buckets of oil onto all of it or something
Oil should be burned off the CHRA in about 5 minutes. How long it will take to purge out of the exhaust depends upon how much oil got dumped and pooled in it. Have you added oil? How much?
It does sound like you still have a leak though. You sure about the engine? Valve guide seals?
It does sound like you still have a leak though. You sure about the engine? Valve guide seals?
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 5,718
Total Cats: 830
From: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
What everyone else said.
If it was just a few drops on it, it would have burnt off in seconds. Something has to be leaking somewhere for you to keep smelling it.
This may sound stupid, but is your catch can working??
If it was just a few drops on it, it would have burnt off in seconds. Something has to be leaking somewhere for you to keep smelling it.
This may sound stupid, but is your catch can working??
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,705
Total Cats: 904
From: Taos, New mexico
Oil should be burned off the CHRA in about 5 minutes. How long it will take to purge out of the exhaust depends upon how much oil got dumped and pooled in it. Have you added oil? How much?
It does sound like you still have a leak though. You sure about the engine? Valve guide seals?
It does sound like you still have a leak though. You sure about the engine? Valve guide seals?
Plugs have no deposits on them from burning oil, they actually look amazingly clean.
The catch can has not collected more than a thin coat of oil int he bottom of the can. On the 1.6 when I ran this same setup I collected considerably more oil. It's both ports on the VC > catch can > VTA. The catch can has steel wool in it for the oil to condensate on.
At this point I KNOW for a fact the turbo itself is smoking for some reason, so I've got to fix that. If I still have oil consumption issues after that is fixed I will definitely consider the fact that I could need valve seals, etc.
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,705
Total Cats: 904
From: Taos, New mexico
Just got back from picking up some spare parts. I'm such a junkie.
Got a 94 100k 1.8 with good and even compression across the board for $300
Got a 1.6 dash with no cracks for $70
Got a full set of control arms for $70. I plan on pressing in some poly bushings and doing a quick swap over to my car with them. Then I'll probably sell my set.
Got a set of taillights (one of mine was broken) for $50. These are perfect and awesome.
Also got to cut the battery panel out of the shell he was selling, so I'm going to fix my corroded battery area (from running a non-sealed battery for a while).
And also got a set of "ryoku rob" tow hooks. They looks pretty cool.
Got a 94 100k 1.8 with good and even compression across the board for $300
Got a 1.6 dash with no cracks for $70
Got a full set of control arms for $70. I plan on pressing in some poly bushings and doing a quick swap over to my car with them. Then I'll probably sell my set.
Got a set of taillights (one of mine was broken) for $50. These are perfect and awesome.
Also got to cut the battery panel out of the shell he was selling, so I'm going to fix my corroded battery area (from running a non-sealed battery for a while).
And also got a set of "ryoku rob" tow hooks. They looks pretty cool.







