what about that one that goes from the dip stick to the chassis by the master cylinder.

 

I didn't look down there, i'm guessing that'd be the block ground that i didn't have pictured. Goes to that white plastic block under the booster? Or is that one of those woven strap deals like what the MSM had? (You'd think i would have checked for that one, i had a bad experience with that one on the MSM a couple hours outside of Kansas City in the middle of nowhere.)

I'll look tonite to make sure that's still there.

 

1) figure out why its on the wrong side
2) un-do whatever its causing it to not reach the ps pump or extend the wire
3) ????
4) profit.


wat

I thought its legit, you're making it sound like its not.
it should be from the little plate between engine and bellhousing, and grounded to the frame rail

 

I mean the wire rope one, doesnt go to the white plastic one.

 

Right-O.

There's another one that looks like the same kind of plug not going to anything tucked up by the driver's fender. Wire was different color, though.

I specifically took a pic of this one because it was hanging out pretty close to the alt belt and it became the subject of my ire pretty quickly.



Yeah, i ninja-edited.

I forgot that one was the braided ****. I didn't look at that one.

 

the PS pump one does come from the pass side. I wonder if your MS will even do anything with that info if you plugged it in.

 

Probably not. Unless the GSlender **** does things with it, but i thought that was just A/C.

 

Sounds like the problem I was having with my COP harness. May want to run a continuity check on all your COP wires. I had a a cold solder issue on the ground wire on plug #1. Only dropped the cylinder on hard impacts. Crimped a new wire in place and it is perfect.

 

That was my initial thought. I didn't have my stuff to really test it though, so i just eyeballed it all and give it the "tug test."

If the misfire comes back i'll have to tear it down again.

Le sigh. Why can't people just do things right?

 

As I learned with my original car, doing it right takes more time than people want to give. Being ansy and wanting to drive the car is what causes people to lose sight of the long term goals. I redid my entire engine bay wiring harnesses by the time I was done. **** gets annoying fast.

 

Sure, but... it's faster to make a good solder joint than it is to make whatever the hell that **** was.

 

True but I've learned that is the weakest link(or strongest if you will) when it comes to cars.

I finally just bought a **** load of these. Way solid and convenient. Doesn't add a **** load of bulk like butt connectors do.

 

Yeah, i buy those and all other shrink terminals in bulk from Fastenal.

Didn't have any at home, so a solder job it was.

 

I use these on some machines at work. They are super easy to use and they work despite being continuously bathed in oil.

 

What in the world are those?

 

3m scotchlock moisture resistant connectors. You just push the wire in and you're done. They also make a straight variety. 3M Scotchlok IDC UR Connectors, 19-26 AWG 100/Pk
Like dis:

 

I love those, but they are sorta bulky. I have used them for all my fluorescent light ballasts at my bakery and never had a problem.

 

They're way less bulky than wire nuts, easier to use too.

Just expensive.

I've been trying to get work to quit buying wire nuts since i started there. No luck though.

 

Yeah, the inline ones are much slimmer, but I have a hard time finding them in stock.

 

I don't think i showed Ben this. It could be worse buddy:

This is a freshly installed sub panel with a couple contactors, relay, 110v rail, timer, and a service loop for something. This was done by a coworker... I found it this way and had to rebuild it.


When i was done with it.