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Old 05-20-2014, 12:44 PM   #201
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FWIW Ben, the FM2 clutch I installed in my (your old) MSM feels great. I still get the occasional NB chatter, but it is right as rain as far as pedal feel and engagement point.
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Old 05-20-2014, 12:44 PM   #202
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No maybe kinda. Thats where it gets confusing.
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Old 05-20-2014, 12:51 PM   #203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vteckiller2000 View Post
FWIW Ben, the FM2 clutch I installed in my (your old) MSM feels great. I still get the occasional NB chatter, but it is right as rain as far as pedal feel and engagement point.
I might look into that....


Turns out i'm wrong, i forgot. This car just has the FM1 clutch, but a Fidanza flywheel.

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No maybe kinda. Thats where it gets confusing.
Should i just play safe and get the 01+ ABS booster?
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Old 05-20-2014, 12:54 PM   #204
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I have the 01+ MSM ABS master + booster. Its OK, it's not the super stupid thick master like the normal 01+ ABS, still kind of mushy.
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Old 05-20-2014, 01:31 PM   #205
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If you plan on buying a 949 clutch to replace the FM, start stalking their site now. Like all 949 products, they're baller and unfortunately stocked low. So they sell out like everything else, and you're left waiting months for it to come in.

Do NA seats bolt into an NB? Or are you using NB sliders bolted to an NA seat?
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Old 05-20-2014, 01:34 PM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
If you plan on buying a 949 clutch to replace the FM, start stalking their site now. Like all 949 products, they're baller and unfortunately stocked low. So they sell out like everything else, and you're left waiting months for it to come in.

Do NA seats bolt into an NB? Or are you using NB sliders bolted to an NA seat?


Yeah, i know. I'm more wondering when i'll have the time/space to even do a clutch job on this thing.

NA seats bolted right into the NB. I put the seats from the NA in the NB and it was much superior to any NB seat in an NB.

The entire setup from both cars swapped over.
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Old 05-20-2014, 01:35 PM   #207
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The sliders just dont swap between the seats IIRC but the sliders bolt to either chassis.
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Old 05-20-2014, 01:43 PM   #208
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Good to know, thanks!

I've pulled my engine for a clutch job three times now.

Once for the 949 clutch swap

A second time cause my RMS was dumping oil on it and slipping

A third time to take it out and clean it REALLY, REALLY well cause it was still slipping.

It's still slipping with a glazed disc. I've ordered a replacement disc, but it hasn't shipped yet.

This is all in a single car garage. It's not extra deep either, maybe 5 feet in front of the car when the back is up against the door. Most of which is taken up by tool boxes against the back wall.

The trick is to remove the front bumper, giving you extra room to work, and for the hoist. When you're ready, bring the hoist in and assemble it. Pull it, swap the clutch, and put it back in. If you need to do any work to it, push the car out. If not, the garage is only a cluster **** for the 30 minute clutch swap.
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Old 05-20-2014, 01:55 PM   #209
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I was cussing like a sailor trying to get my motor to drop in the motor mount slots. Had mounts on motor.

First attempt had turbo and manifold on. Nope. Back out and remove turbo. Then try again. Nope, coil pack in the way. Back out. Try again.

I know I'm going to have to do my clutch again soon. Haven't decided if i will attempt pulling the motor again or dropping the transmission.
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Old 05-20-2014, 02:05 PM   #210
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The consensus on this forum seems to be this: if you have lift, drop the transmission, if not, pull the engine.

I have COPs, therefore no coil pack in the way. And yes, it's generally a good idea to remove one, if not both of the motor mounts. If you have a few people helping you, remove both mounts. Once the engine is in, have you friends pull it towards the passenger side, and install the driver's side motor mount. Then have them tilt it towards the driver's side, and install the passenger side in the slot.

I've done it with both mounts installed, it's not particularly fun or easy.
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Old 05-20-2014, 02:21 PM   #211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
I have the 01+ MSM ABS master + booster. Its OK, it's not the super stupid thick master like the normal 01+ ABS, still kind of mushy.
I have SE/Sport brakes and the thick (regular?) booster on my 01, and it is ridiculously strong.

Like, "pop your eyeballs out and possible to lock up the brakes at any speed" strong.

Never felt anything like it on other setups, even when I had the Wilwood BBK on my 99.
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Old 05-20-2014, 02:22 PM   #212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
The consensus on this forum seems to be this: if you have lift, drop the transmission, if not, pull the engine.

I have COPs, therefore no coil pack in the way. And yes, it's generally a good idea to remove one, if not both of the motor mounts. If you have a few people helping you, remove both mounts. Once the engine is in, have you friends pull it towards the passenger side, and install the driver's side motor mount. Then have them tilt it towards the driver's side, and install the passenger side in the slot.

I've done it with both mounts installed, it's not particularly fun or easy.
I've done it both ways with and without lift, and without a lift would 100% pull both and split them outside the car. It really is worth it
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Old 05-20-2014, 02:24 PM   #213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
I have SE/Sport brakes and the thick (regular?) booster on my 01, and it is ridiculously strong.

Like, "pop your eyeballs out and possible to lock up the brakes at any speed" strong.

Never felt anything like it on other setups, even when I had the Wilwood BBK on my 99.
IIRC thick booster should only be on ABS sport brake cars. Which is just mega assisted.
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Old 05-20-2014, 02:25 PM   #214
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Well dammit which one do i want?
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Old 05-20-2014, 02:26 PM   #215
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I'm with ya, the rejoining of the transmission to the engine is what I absolutely hate in any case.

A few on the forum laugh at the added complication of pulling the engine. Mostly Scott.
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Old 05-20-2014, 02:30 PM   #216
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But after you've pulled the engine from the chassis one or two times and thrown a bunch of **** away in the process it becomes super duper easy to pull the engine.
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Old 05-20-2014, 02:34 PM   #217
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Quote:
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I'm with ya, the rejoining of the transmission to the engine is what I absolutely hate in any case.

A few on the forum laugh at the added complication of pulling the engine. Mostly Scott.
Scott didn't part out his car for like a year cause he was too lazy to actually pull off 5 bolts

he will ignore spelling mistakes in his posts because he's too lazy to use spell check.

Laziak for the win
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Old 05-20-2014, 05:07 PM   #218
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Cars looking great after the most recent updates. Still not a fan of the wing, something about it just looks wrong to me on an NA.

That said, cars definitely moving in the right direction. I have a soft top delete too on mine, it's great. The hood thing could be due to closing the hood with tools on the side rails, I've seen it before. If it's an aluminum hood I bet you could tweak it pretty easily to fit better though without hurting the paint or anything.
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Old 05-21-2014, 01:45 PM   #219
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FWIW I did my clutch in my MSM in 4 hours with many beer and help with other project breaks on a hoist, then swapped the transmission when I broke it in exactly 2 hours from under the car one one of those baby hoists that only go up like 48".


Just drive it here Ben, I'll help you.
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Old 05-21-2014, 01:56 PM   #220
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Record for trans swap for us thus far is 45 minutes from start to finish.

But we has lift and power tools and all that mumbo jumbo.
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