Does this mean that throttle tip-in enrichment isn't active until 10% is registered from the TPS?

That squiggly blue line is happening by itself. Car wasn't running in this screenshot, foot off all pedals. Normal?

 

And here's a short log of idle things. Anything look horribad? Needs some more tuning, still oscillating a bit but i haven't gotten into it real deep yet.

 

No, those settings indicate that you're using TPSdot 100% of the time.

The TPS threshold is the only 10% I see, so is that what you're talking about? That's the minimum change in throttle position per second that is has to see before it does anything. So if you're not changing your throttle by at least 10% every second, it won't do anything.

Make this number really high to essentially disable accel enrichments for everyone but Superman.

Make this number really low to have accel enrichments follow your TPS noise and have your car buck and become undrivable.

 

Ok so basically... that's why my part throttle sucks bad. No enrichment is being done if i'm only changing throttle by less than 10%. Yes?

Does that look like a normal amount of TPS noise? (I'm guessing that's what the blue line is)

 

10% per second, which is really slow. Going from 0 to WOT in 10 seconds... You could change by 1%, but if it happened in 1/10th of a second you'd get enrichment. Almost definitely why your part throttle sucks bad, I'm sure every time the car bucks from going too rich you hit that 10%/sec threshold again and it goes rich again.

I think mine's set for 50.

 

Car isn't bucking from going rich. Slow part throttle application is giving me extremely lean conditions.

If i hammer the **** out of the gas from any RPM, any load, the car does exactly what it's supposed to do.

If i apply say... 5% more throttle to go up a hill on the highway, wideband maxes out lean.

 

Sounds like you have some lean VE cells. Mine is doing that exact same thing and we reasoned that the VE cells are too lean since the AE isn't really in play under small and/or slower throttle increases.

 

IDK what to tell you. Mine didn't do that even with AE turned off completely.

 

Boo hiss.

 

These are my accel enrich settings, if that helps Concealer

 

Possibru! I'll plug them in when i have a chance on Friday and report back. Thanks!

 

Remember that AE changes with injector size. His settings likely will make your car worse.

I'm 99% sure that your VE is lean in those cells. Turn off AE and O2 correction and see what happens, I would bet money on that it is your VE table.

 

or you could....you know.....actually figure out what the settings do and actually tune them.....to your car's liking

I say this in all seriousness, cause I tried "plugging in" others AE and EAE settings before, and it sucked.

 

Well right... i just want to try the 5 vs. 10 thing.

I'm pretty sure it's lean in those cells as well. I watched it a bit on the way to work, and it'll hang out off the end of the wideband for 5-10 seconds at a time if i don't move my foot past a certain point.

I could. Bonus points if i had time.

What will probably happen is that i'll bitch about it for the next 3 weeks i actually drive it, then park it for the winter, breaking it out only to bring it down to Louisville and pay someone to dyno tune it.

Or not, i don't know. I really don't have time to **** with it further, though. Which sucks, because it's what i have to drive. Got more important **** to do.

 

 

It's not as bad as it looks. Kindof. Sortof. Not really.

Need to update thread.

 

Now that I know what wires are which I plan on doing that in the future. It is still a little scary to deloom it though! Good luck sir! In for 10lbs of wiring removed.

 

That's the MX6. I don't care enough to do it to this Miata.

 

Is there any compelling reason to run my BP4W like... you know... it's a 4W?

As in, swap to a 4W valve cover with the cam sensor, get rid of the CAS, and make the necessary wiring changes? Or is that simply not worth the hassle considering i'm working with a 95 harness and a 95 PNP?

 

you'll be able to be more aggressive the the timing because you wont have as much timing scatter (assuming you're not already using the crank sensor and just using the CAS as a cam sensor). From the people I know who've dyno'ed the car with both, its worth a large chunk of power.