Thanks for the info. I ordered them a week or so ago but it's good to hear confirmation of that, I won't be running tons of power (or likely hardly any power) for the time being.

You can always post more pics BTW

 

new pics are coming as soon as I start rebuilding my engine

 

engine rebuild has begun! some new pics







Pistons look clean. Remember this engine had run with E85



wait...wut?



That explains all the noise

My supermiata damper got loose, started to vibrate and looks like it crack the crank in half Am I first?

 

That's the first Miata crank I've seen broken through the #1 crank throw.

 

you're certainly in the first handful lol

that's some impressive carnage, congrats for making MAN torque

 

Looks like less of a power related failure and more of an installation/part failure. Like he said, the damper slipping off and wobbling like crazy fucked thay crank up.

 

Don't think I've ever seen a crank failure, before.

 

You're right sir.



Also I just bought VVT head. I was thinking something like supertech springs & SUB’s. Make it “8000rpm proof”

 

Super keen to see how you go with the VVT head.

Were the rods and pistons salvageable?

 

Supertech rods and pistons were OK




Only damage was that ~0.1mm notch in #1 main bearing cap. I don't think that matter




So;
-new crank
-new bearings
-new m-tuned oil pump
-ARP main bearing bolts. (maybe)

...and balance everything

 

Found an old crank back of my garage



It look OK apart from one journal which I have to polish and maybe use bigger bearing with that

Here's what I wish to achieve with the build VVT head:


A much wider powerband. Make it spool ~300rpm quicker with the VVT cam. Lower midrange torque by retard timing from 21 to 18deg, this to make 6speed's last longer. And then as the torque start to decline just add boost to compensate and keep that flat torque line as long as possible with these stock cams.

mMMm....3500-8000rpm torque curve

 

Dont retard that midrange timing, just run less boost there.

 

Wish it was that simple with internal WG Well I'll try port the turbine housing and see if I can get it work any better..or quicker I mean

 

ARP would be good insurance to keep the caps tight. New crank looks like it needs undersized bearings. Good luck.

 

ARP main bolts ordered. Although I didn't have any problems with the stock ones



Also there's M-Tuned billet oil pump waiting

 

painted


I hope this will stop my oilpressure dropping while braking

 

Cool DIY baffle, I hope it works!

 

I'd go even further with the baffle- all the way around- like prod racers:

 

I think about it but oil can escape in only direction there. Plus I haven’t notice any pressure drops on cornering, only when I braking:

 

Everyone has their tricks. I add one extra quart to the pan for track duty. I know the oil needs to drain by gravity out of the head and that most of the draining happens at the rear of the engine. I worry with high revving that it is pumping a lot of oil up to the top of the engine that doesn't have much time to get back down to the pan. I also like to think it reduces the propensity for the oil to heat up quickly because of the added volume.