My turbo MX-5

edit: Superlap video. Sorry 'bout the sound, ...or lack of it:
Last edited by muoto; Jul 22, 2013 at 11:34 AM.
Short but cool video from last Saturday’s race
Unfortunately Competition Clutches sent me wrong pressure plate for my twin disc. So I had to drive with the old worn clutch and lower the boost to ~10psi which feels like slow N/A.
Unfortunately Competition Clutches sent me wrong pressure plate for my twin disc. So I had to drive with the old worn clutch and lower the boost to ~10psi which feels like slow N/A.
Last edited by muoto; Aug 13, 2013 at 02:09 AM.
SO AWESOME. I lol'd @ 10psi feeling like slow NA, but I'm sure that is true with the power you are used to. Still looked awesome and quick. Love the data overlay on the video too. Bueno.
Competition Clutch twin disc is in 


It took 8 hours to change. I could have gone faster with beer

And here’s why it take so long me to get that new clutch. Competition clutch had to make new pressure ring with chamfered drive flanges. With the original pressure ring, the clutch will not disengage.



It took 8 hours to change. I could have gone faster with beer

And here’s why it take so long me to get that new clutch. Competition clutch had to make new pressure ring with chamfered drive flanges. With the original pressure ring, the clutch will not disengage.
Did a quick tracktest with the new clutch. Next Tuesday I’m going to the same track again and do a longer test drive. It’s my local track. Nicely renewed as you can see from the asphalt 
@ 18-19psi
There were few corners when I had trouble getting in third gear. On the way home I notice that fifth gear won’t go in every time. This morning I find out that when in stationary fifth and reverse won’t work anymore! ****.. It has to be something with the gear selector rod etc...

There were few corners when I had trouble getting in third gear. On the way home I notice that fifth gear won’t go in every time. This morning I find out that when in stationary fifth and reverse won’t work anymore! ****.. It has to be something with the gear selector rod etc...
Here's longer testing/practice session from last Tuesday
first run:
- Boost settings are wrong. Boost drop to 15psi near redline
- AFR’s are also off. 12.5:1 towards the redline.
- After six laps my TSE 11.75” brakes started to fade. Must be due to street brake pads (Hawk HP+).
- Water temp went to +111c. A new record
second run:
- Boost map fixed. 18-19psi whole time
- AFR’s fixed as well.
- Occasional boost-cut at 22psi. I had to fine tune my PID settings more
- Injectors are now officially max out. Fuel pressure is 90psi and injector DC is 94% near the redline
first run:
- AFR’s are also off. 12.5:1 towards the redline.
- After six laps my TSE 11.75” brakes started to fade. Must be due to street brake pads (Hawk HP+).
- Water temp went to +111c. A new record

second run:
- AFR’s fixed as well.
- Occasional boost-cut at 22psi. I had to fine tune my PID settings more
- Injectors are now officially max out. Fuel pressure is 90psi and injector DC is 94% near the redline
No need for new injectors, just raise (somehow) voltage to 16V 
Can you dyno it? And I wonder if your 3.5" downpipe makes any difference. I thought about going bigger but everyone says that 3" is more than sufficient.

Can you dyno it? And I wonder if your 3.5" downpipe makes any difference. I thought about going bigger but everyone says that 3" is more than sufficient.
I haven't considered doing a 3.5" downpipe, but if there's room then why not. My plan is to build something like the Wittyworks setup you have, what do you think, is there room for it?









