Isn't there some .msq you can grab? I forget, have you broken the motor in?

 

Lets just say with my DW1000 injectors none of the maps I have seen have been close. I started from y8s and am trying to tune from that.

The motor has run for about 15min now idling and driving around. I would say it is broken in, not exactly how you are supposed to break it in. Unfortunately I did not have a tune that would allow proper break in. We will see what happens in the future.

 

If you want, I can email you my hydra map. The table is in MS and I am running the same injectors.

 

I should be good. It is just going to take a lot of time to get it all right.

 

make sure you set ve analyze to "easy"

 

Get it to pull major vacuum. Get up to speed in a low gear and lift the pedal.

How did autotune not get you close within 5 minutes?

 

FWIW until I went to 20psi I was only seeing around 18mmHg at idle. Now I see 20mmHg.

As you know my new motor had an absolutely miserable first 100 miles, and my thought is that maybe lots of boost made it seal better. I dunno.

 

We even get bad-*** break-in procedures! Rev that ****** up to redline in a low gear at 20psi (we will be breaking in the tires here too), then let it coast down under high vac. Rinse and repeat until it sprays bottom-end parts or the rings seal.

 

honestly the motor is broken in once you idle it, but you should get out in low gear, slowly building to around 3K and then pull vacuum after each run. Do it maybe 10-15 times then change the oil and filter.

 

Per the FM instructions and what Corky Bell has said you should go up to redline in 3rd or 4th gear and then just let off the pedal and coast down in gear until you stop. Unfortunately so far I do not have a tune well enough that I will even consider going to 7k without blowing my motor. 4.5krpms is the highest I have been and it was reading way lean then. Hopefully some more playing with it tonight should be able to get me up to 7k rpms and then I will do the proper break in.

 

Not in boost homes. Do it with partial throttle, use the least amount of throttle needed to get you there. Autotune on the way to be on the safe side, and cut back on the timing.

 

I know not to go into boost. Basically I started with Y8s fuel map for his VVT motor. I then played with required fuel a lot to get it to idle. It took a lot of adjustment. Once I had it idling ok, I would try just free reving and it would go really lean. So I am slowly trying to autotune enough to get it to so I can make it to 7k rpms. Hopefully tonight I will get to that point.

 

Derp?


Come on lars if I can make a fuel map so can you.

And yes part throttle it so no megaboost! Kpa and rpm is what matters

 

I am working on it, Unfortunately the tune is so far off that VEAL is having a problem auto-tuning and I do not have someone I can have drive while I manually tune.

Here is my last tune after I ran VE Analyzer with Megalog Viewer on my last datalog. Here is the datalog that I took driving around my neighbourhood.

 

I just got home from work and put the front of my car up in the air on jack stands. I can see no leaks right now which is a great thing. Means I can put the car down and just go tune in a little bit once traffic dies down.

 

So I spent many half an hour out tuning. My fuel map is getting a hell of a lot better. On the downside my over boost protection was on for 175kpa, which is definitely too low for the wastegate on the chinacharger.

Tomorrow I plan on swapping tires and making sure there are still no leaks. Then I will turn the boost down a little bit on the chinacharger. Then hopefully get some good pulls where I am not hitting over boost protection.

 

no you need more boost.. gotta put the injectors to work.

 

Did you say MOAR BOOOOOST!!!

 

I disconnected my wastegate when I first autotuned for this reason. Gave me a decent N/A fuel map so it was at least smooth going into boost. With my little pin on the waste gate, it's pretty quick and easy. One of these:

couldn't think of the name.

 

Hair pin.